1917 cradle dimensions?
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...1917 tripod/cradle and stuff....
Op rod.....Might want to talk with Jeff (Ironcreations) or Lou (Ohioblacksheep) as they both do parts and pieces of the 1917 tripod and knock-offs of the mounting systems. Both are highly motivated,well versed in fabrication and will spend the time necessary to help you in your quest. These fine gentlemen are board members here and their work is above reproach. I deal with them a lot and can vouch for their fair and honest business practices. You will not be dissapointed.......
Op rod.....Might want to talk with Jeff (Ironcreations) or Lou (Ohioblacksheep) as they both do parts and pieces of the 1917 tripod and knock-offs of the mounting systems. Both are highly motivated,well versed in fabrication and will spend the time necessary to help you in your quest. These fine gentlemen are board members here and their work is above reproach. I deal with them a lot and can vouch for their fair and honest business practices. You will not be dissapointed.......
Unless you absolutly are determined to make your own sideplates for the 1917A1 mount you might try Numrich Gun Parts. In a recent ad in the Shotgun News they were selling the right side plate for about $45.00 I have seen one of these and it was in the grease and wrapped in a govt rap covered with wax. In their catalog (#29) they also list the left side plate for $26.40. Part numbers are: Left side plate 32450, Right sideplate 32460. They list the right sideplate in the catalog for $25.35 but the ad in the Shotgun news shows the higher price so the price of the left plate may be higher also. Numrich phone is 866-689-7424, or you can go online and get the latest prices.
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Armorer, I think he is talking about the WWI tripod, the 1917. Totally different animal than the 1917A1 pod. No parts available for these. Most were converted to accept 1917A1 cradles, but the socket and legs differ. I imagine all the original cradles were scrapped back in the 30s.
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1,359 Posts
There is one in the Oregon national guard Museum. Rick Larson took some photos of if for me. I would like to see it someday. Maybye at the MVPA convention in Aug.
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Just a suggestion, but you could take a known size from the lower part of the pintle from the picture below and try to scale it the best you can????
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Just a suggestion, but you could take a known size from the lower part of the pintle from the picture below and try to scale it the best you can????
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1,022 Posts
Craig,
Plenty Doable, I've built a lot of stuff with less than that.. Those are REALLY good pics...
You guys DO understand that the side plates ARE the easy part, Right ???? The pintle pic is Great, and I used it to look at other cradle pics in Dolf's book and if you look there is a boss on the back. In other pics it shows some kind of lock or something that connects to the flange around the aszmith (sp) ring.. Any Ideas ???
The other place it starts to get intresting is the elevation setup..Most folks also forget to look at all the LITTLE parts involved in a project like this..While not as many as in a 1917A1 tripod, there still are a lot of them...Lou
Plenty Doable, I've built a lot of stuff with less than that.. Those are REALLY good pics...
You guys DO understand that the side plates ARE the easy part, Right ???? The pintle pic is Great, and I used it to look at other cradle pics in Dolf's book and if you look there is a boss on the back. In other pics it shows some kind of lock or something that connects to the flange around the aszmith (sp) ring.. Any Ideas ???
The other place it starts to get intresting is the elevation setup..Most folks also forget to look at all the LITTLE parts involved in a project like this..While not as many as in a 1917A1 tripod, there still are a lot of them...Lou
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Lou
This is from TR 320-35 (Dated 1925)
"The two trasversing stops slide around the outer edge of the round brass flange on the top of the socket and can be set at any desired position by tightening the traversing stop screws (15H). The traversing stop pin (15B) can be moved up or down by means of its handle (15C). When pushed up it clears the traversing stops, but when down it comes in contact with them. When the traversing stops are properly set for the flanks of a target, it serves as a convenient method of regulating the limits of the traversing fire."
15H & 15B are not shown. You have to look through Machine Gun Service Regulations (Section 22), the Handbook of the browning machine gun, and the weapons mount book to figure it all out.
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You can make out the (traversing stop pin (15C)) handle at the back of the pintle
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These are the traversing stop slides. Its kinda hard to tell what the other parts of the stops are called ,because the manuals I have lack a complete break down drawing.
Item numbers
15F Traversing stop top shoe
15G Traversing stop bottom shoe
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Craig
This is from TR 320-35 (Dated 1925)
"The two trasversing stops slide around the outer edge of the round brass flange on the top of the socket and can be set at any desired position by tightening the traversing stop screws (15H). The traversing stop pin (15B) can be moved up or down by means of its handle (15C). When pushed up it clears the traversing stops, but when down it comes in contact with them. When the traversing stops are properly set for the flanks of a target, it serves as a convenient method of regulating the limits of the traversing fire."
15H & 15B are not shown. You have to look through Machine Gun Service Regulations (Section 22), the Handbook of the browning machine gun, and the weapons mount book to figure it all out.
You can make out the (traversing stop pin (15C)) handle at the back of the pintle
These are the traversing stop slides. Its kinda hard to tell what the other parts of the stops are called ,because the manuals I have lack a complete break down drawing.
Item numbers
15F Traversing stop top shoe
15G Traversing stop bottom shoe
Craig
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1,359 Posts
Something else I learned tonight. I always wondered why some of the humps on the back of the sockets never looked like they were completed with a hole. Most of them seem to have what looks like a freeze plug added after they got rid of the worm mechanism. The statement below might be the answer. The plug has a W stamped into it. Its the same stamp and the same plug thats in the bottom of a 1917A1 pintle.
This was on page 77 of Machine Gun Service Regulations Section 22
"In addition to the above, one model of tripod has a socket equipped with a direction worm mechanism"
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It depends on which manual or drawing you look at ,but 16A is the worm mechanism.
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Craig
This was on page 77 of Machine Gun Service Regulations Section 22
"In addition to the above, one model of tripod has a socket equipped with a direction worm mechanism"
It depends on which manual or drawing you look at ,but 16A is the worm mechanism.
Craig
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1,359 Posts
And since Im posting photos here's a pic of my not yet completed Model of 1917 tripod and a 1917A1 cradle mounted on my restored M1 wheeled mount. I still need to make up or find a brass dial ,stick on the data plate (Model of 1917) and finish a couple of parts for the dial clamp/tightener (4F)
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After 3 years Ive finally equiped the mount with almost all the right stuff. Model of 1917 tripod (without worm gear) 1917A1 cradle (with brass T&E handles) A model of 1918 spare barrel bag, The correct cleaning rod (not sure of designation, but it is the same rod pictured in many photos I own) and the spare parts chest. I also found an original drawbar for the mount last month.
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I have better close ups ,but this is the rod. It is also the correct rod for the Model of 1917 BMG
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Craig
After 3 years Ive finally equiped the mount with almost all the right stuff. Model of 1917 tripod (without worm gear) 1917A1 cradle (with brass T&E handles) A model of 1918 spare barrel bag, The correct cleaning rod (not sure of designation, but it is the same rod pictured in many photos I own) and the spare parts chest. I also found an original drawbar for the mount last month.
I have better close ups ,but this is the rod. It is also the correct rod for the Model of 1917 BMG
Craig
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