[morippums]

I would like to built kind of a representitive example of a 1917a1 and I was wondering if anyone has drawings, sketches, or napkin doodles of the dimentions of the water jacket. Or any other parts for that matter. I know that the parts are available, but I would like to build one myself seeing as how I have the "technology" in my shop. Thanks in advance.
Morippums

 

[Lucky#13]

I am not aware of anyone who has the actual drawings. I am working on getting them myself. No guarantees, but we'll see what happens. I know a fellow or two in the UK who have made 1917 and 1917A1 dummies. One made his own jacket and did a nice job. I know that Lou makes his from specs he took off originals, without the benefit of arsenal drawings. He nailed it completely. They are incredibly nice. I can tell you that the tube diameter is 4 1/4 inch. Not easy stuff to find! And it is not available in the correct wall thickness so it has to be turned on the inside, the length of the tube. Have fun!

As to the rest of the 1917A1, the only items that are different from the A4 is the top cover fixed base (riveted on the otherwise standard cover) and rear sight, and the top cover latch. The cover and latch are available at Numrich or Sarco. Numrich has the lower price, but Sarco has NIW condition. You can get the sight moveable base and the windage screw assembly from Numrich, but condition will vary. Also, they have most of the combo slide parts, and you can make a ladder mock up if you like. Assuming that you do not wish to pay retail for one of my repro sights, I can tell you that I occasionally have ladders with defects that I can make available for a relatively low price. The defects relate to the depth or quality of the engraving. Let me know if that will help on your project.

 

[morippums]

Thanks so much for the input. I guess we'll keep digging and see what turns up. I assumed that the ones that were available were reverse enginered from an original. What I like to call a "Polish Blueprint".
Can you tell me what the wall thickness is of the tube?
Thanks again.

 

[Lucky#13]

I do not know the wall thickness. You'd have to see if Lou will divulge that info.

I will tell you that, when it comes to the other surplus parts I referred too, they are cheap enough that you will not want to consider making them yourself. Numrich is probably your best bet. I supply those parts with my product at or below the retail available from them, though I do not sell them separately. Let me know if I can be of any more help. [email protected]

 

[ohioblacksheep]

The wall thickness of the tube starts out at 1/8in. then the inside is relieved in the middle from about 1in. from the front and about 2in. from the back by a 1/16. That ends up makeing the center wall thickness of the jacket 1/16. That takes about 3 lb. of steel out of it....Lou

 

[howiebearse]

just a comment

where else do you get such help from guys that are in the business to supply great parts for sale here. I think it should be noted that not only do Lou and Rollin supply wonderfull parts but they are so helpfull to others. they are a credit to themselves and this boards. and i must say its a pleasure to know them and do business with them.

 

[ohioblacksheep]

Say, I just reread your post. That Reversed Enginering and "Polish Blueprint" comment is pretty Brave Talk from someone HOPEING to get information !!!!

BTW, to ALL concerned this IS a Joke ...Lou

 

[southbysouthwest]

Thanks so much for the input. I guess we'll keep digging and see what turns up. I assumed that the ones that were available were reverse enginered from an original. What I like to call a "Polish Blueprint".
Can you tell me what the wall thickness is of the tube?
Thanks again.

For a repro tube you can always get one from BMG parts. You would still need to do some machining on it as noted above.
http://www.bmgparts.com/1917.html

 

[UncleDad]

Speaking of Lou's 1917 tube. I just got one and I have a question. It sounds like there is something rattling around inside mine. Is it supposed to do this?

 

[ohioblacksheep]

UncleDad,

If it doesn't rattle you have a problem Thats the slider on the steam tube moveing back and forth...Lou

 

[UncleDad]

UncleDad,

If it doesn't rattle you have a problem Thats the slider on the steam tube moveing back and forth...Lou

Thanks....The waterjacket is a thing of beauty by the way. Excellent job ya do there Lou. Im very impressed with the quality. Now I have to get the rest of the kit prepped and machined..oh and the correct top cover..and back plate...and sights...and..


P.S...when I finally get it built, and partially filled with water, how does the steam tube slider need to be. Do I slide it forward or backward? I bought the water jacket from someone second hand. Is there a manual for this thing?

 

[Lucky#13]

Don't let that old blacksheep fool ya. That's the little mouse inside the jacket who works the hidden, secret steam pump. He gets cranky when you tilt the jacket up and down and pounds on the inner wall with his crank handle. That's what you're hearing!

 

[morippums]

I just love this site. So much knowledge in one place, and everyone so quick to help each other out. Thanks guys!!!!

 

[Lucky#13]

I had no idea that BMG Parts had that tube. Must be a recent addition. Well, if I have time soon to get it built, I'll have one of Lou's new all steel jackets mounted up on the rest of an all RIA kit, with new L & R sideplates.

 

[ohioblacksheep]

The slider takes care of itself. The original design was, if you tilt the gun up for stuff like AA fireing, the slider goes to the rear of the steam tube to close the rear port of the tube. Tilted down and it goes to the front to close the front port. While its not a positive seal it helps keep the water loss down...Lou

 

[ohioblacksheep]

Morippums,

If you go here on NoseGunners sight and go down the page, there is a drawing of a Water cooled M38. While there are No dimentions it gives you something to look at....Lou

http://browningmgs.com/Arms/MG38B/MG38B.htm

 

[morippums]

Thanks Lou,
I checked that out and the diagram helps a lot. Thanks

 

[morippums]

from the " For what its worth" dept.

After the help I got from Lucky #13 ond Ohioblacksheep I was able to put together what I think is probably a workable drawing for the water jacket for anyone interested. I'm sure its not 100% accurate, but its something to work with, And I'm guessing close enough. I wanted to thank these guys for their help. Now we'll see if I'm smart enough to upload the drawing I made.

 

[morippums]

"Holy Cow", That thing is so small You can barely read it. If anyone wants a copy send me your e-mail address and I'll send you a full sized copy.

 

[L999here]

....don't waste your time.....!!!

With all due respect to all those who wish to build their own 1917A1 water-cooled....don't waste your valuable time. Send Lou (Ohioblacksheep) your trunion....get his water jacket and save the hassle. Its already machined and the threads are timed perfectly.....not something most people can do without a lot of scrap and curseing. Then get Rollin's (LUcky#13) topcover/rear sight set up. I've done (6) WC's....all with Lou's water jackets and Rollin's topcover/sights....and have not been disappointed with the finished product. They look great and not (1) in a hundred people can tell they are semi-auto or a new production gun. Keep up the good work,guys....you have my complete backing....and the kudo's are FREE...LOL.....