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Discussion Starter #1
let me start off by saying I'm new to the forum but have been led here many times during my research while building My izzy 7.62 1919a4
I'm looking for advice on parts of the 1919 are common wear or weak parts that I should have extras of to keep this thing running?
Also I have a Linker and about 1800 izzy links but I'm always looking for good deals on more links.


I've attached a photo of my build after function testing before I parkerized it.
99327
 

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The first thing that will break is your bank account - buying ammo and accessories ... and of course you can't have just one.

If you're going to shoot it a lot with links, get (or make) a Trunnion protector to save wear and tear. The forward prongs on the Lock box will fail, particularly when machined thinner for the denial island - cast more easily than forged. Next would probably be the Accelerator, but we're talking heavy use here. MSG
 

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I believe that Sarco has a "spare pack" they sell with small springs and such for the 1919. I'm 10K+ rounds into my 1919a4 and have gone through two barrels and a few sears (before I drilled out the barrel extension for it) but not much else. These things are pretty tough. Perhaps a spare firing pin and a few springs and things. That's generally it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the heads up I'll grab a extra Lock frame and accelerator. I already have the trunnion protector. extra barrel, extra assembled bolt. I've been amassing .308/ 7.62 ammo before the virus/ riots started. approx 3k in .308 (1500 linked up already) so far but always searching for deals as I hate paying inflated prices due to the shortage.
 

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I believe that Sarco has a "spare pack" they sell with small springs and such for the 1919. I'm 10K+ rounds into my 1919a4 and have gone through two barrels and a few sears (before I drilled out the barrel extension for it) but not much else. These things are pretty tough. Perhaps a spare firing pin and a few springs and things. That's generally it.
Ill check and see if they still have that pack.
 

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Springs are critical and if they do not have them reach out to me other than that just get ammo, more ammo and then a little more ammo but hide it from the wife because ammo as high as it is these days is still cheaper than a divorce.
 

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Grab a copmlete extra extractor or two when you can. Don't take up a lot of space and good to have 2. Can help diagnose problems sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Grab a copmlete extra extractor or two when you can. Don't take up a lot of space and good to have 2. Can help diagnose problems sometimes.
I havent been able to find a 7.62 extractor online but I've seen plenty of USGI .30 cal ones. Will the 30-06 extractors work for 7.62?
 

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I am not aware of any diffrence between the 2...extractors are extractors.
 

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Same extractor does both calibers the Israeli's never modified the extractors.
 

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I had a barrel extension break, along with the prong on the lock frame (but not at the same time). Both happened on the thin side machined for the denial island. I also had the button that the accelerator hits fall out on the “fabricated” lock frame. I bought and had machined the cast type lock frames.
Mr. Penley welded the button back in place when I sent the others to be machined and it works fine now. This was all 15 or so years ago. As mentioned above, an extra extractor is a must. Apex has a repair kit fo them as well that has the pin that commonly breaks on them (the pin that rides the left sideplate) if I remember correctly. I bought several of those 6 months ago or so. Don’t know if they still have them or not. In the process of learning and using Turkish 8mm In it years ago, we blew the top cover several times. I would have a couple spares of that too. Another common wear item is the extractor spring in the top cover. That’s about it for my own personal experience on parts that have failed for me over the years. Now for the thing I hate to admit... it was a gun from Ohio Rapid Fire. My son and I had a steep learning curve on getting it to run. Thank goodness for the KMP trigger and sear. The Original ORF trigger/sear lasted about 50 rounds.
 

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Also, I run cloth belts to eliminate the trunnion wear issue. I wish they had been available years ago, but the belts from Sarco are easily hand loaded with a pair of latex coated gloves from Home Depot or Walmart. I’ve used them a lot in both semi and FA’s and they work fine. I would not necessarily use them if my life depended on them working flawlessly since They are a thinner material and rounds can work out of them if you have a belt slung over your arm and shoulder. They are not as good as USGI, but they are relatively cheap and you don’t need a belt loader (even with 308’s), very much unlike GI belts. Aside from the reunion wear issue, I don’t like to mess with picking up, cleaning and re-using links, which I did for years.
 

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I had the accelerator stop button in the lock frame fail. As has already been suggested, machining semi-auto parts for the denial island weakens them quite a bit. My accelerator stop probably only lasted as long as it did because, as I understand, the Israelis welded them to increase the strength.

My trunnion protector is showing noticeable wear, so I recommend using them.
 
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