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Yep ill get to that magic number one post at a time lol I used to be very active on another forum but now I have a 1yr old and its hard to find time to get online.
 

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travel case

Not quite a tommy gun in a violin case but I like it,I used to go to the flea markets out in the SF bay area and buy empty instrument case just to turn them into gun cases, cops are a lot less likely to bug you over a guitar!
 

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I have recently acquired a 1919 a4 parts kit. It will not fully go into battery, I have read through this whole blog and tried pretty much. My trigger block is either older or a different system. I am pretty sure it is a full auto trigger. I am not trying to fire but am trying to get into at least into full battery.
 

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are you using the parts kit parts ? or do you have a semi you are trying to assemble FA parts into ? they are different . Photos will help. you may run into issues with only "parts".....
 

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I bought an 1919 A4 30-06 USA parts kit off of Apex awhile back. It came with everything besides side plate and rivets. The one I purchased also has a Safety bar (like a safety). I don’t know my plans with it yet, but I know the breech lock is not permitting me to go into full battery, I grinded it down to match the depth of the bolt, and now it permits me to go into full battery. But now I can not get out of full battery. I am wondering if apex sent me a very old 1919 and added a few newer 1919 parts.
 

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BeltFed GURU
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A) Trash the breech block you pooched it !! Buy a "New" one there are many sources for it ,B) it is in backwards bevel at top is forward always ,C) The lock frame has not been milled to semi configuration and there is something strange about the back part of it ,the piece in lower back behind the trigger bar pivot is something i have never seen before !!
If you have a 3/16" thick right side plate assembled into the box you have BIG TROUBLE and better torch it apart toot sweet quick !! If you just have the Left side plate ,top and bottom no problem !! The breach block is the problem i believe in why it will not go into battery and will not come out of battery because it is in backwards .
The safety bar is just a bolt hold back to prevent hot barrel cook off`s ,so yes it is kind of a safety, both true rivets and threaded "rivets" are available to attach it to the RSP .
KMP Classic Arms - 1919 Parts is the now standard for the semi trigger and sear (sear slot has to be modified to fit it ) they offer a papered Right Side Plate and they used to/may still offer a 70% unpapered side plate with the cuts .030" short of complete cut thru that you can finish with a dremel tool and file , drills and file ...... There are a few members who offer complete with engravings papered side plates of the finests quality Brass Cartridge aka Halo Mfg. and Ravenna Armory are two of the best !!
Hope this helps !!
 

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This most likely is a headspace issue....Stop grinding stuff and headspace the gun proper ...Then see if that works....By grinding stuff you may be adding to the problem or creating more problems if it gets built.
 

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I am %110 positive the breech is not in back wards.

Oddly after I grinded down the breech, it finally went into full battery.

but after it goes into full battery I can not pull it back out. It’s almost like there is not enough space between the lock frame & breech lock after “recoil”. The block barrel exstenion doesn’t push back and hence the block pushed up into the bolt won’t go down and the bolt slide backresetting accelerator.

I have never seen a lock frame like this and I have watched every video and have not seen the same lock frame/trigger set up.

I apologize if this does not make sense.
 

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After looking at the pic's blown up...There is all kinds of things going on...As BBF pointed out that lock frame is not normal , also the bolt and cocking lever look odd to me...The sear looks different ...I believe this all has to do with that safety you mentioned ....All of this is above my paygrade ...so I will let others chime in.
 

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BeltFed GURU
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I am beginning to think you may have gotten a Brit MK II open bolt 303 browning kit or parts of one !! The lock frame ,cocking lever (Gunner your eyes are better than mine !!) how close the the lever slot in the bolt is to the right side , the sear cut in the bolt , the extractor and having to grind on the breech block all indicate something is not right !! Can you provide pic of all sides of each component ? Now know this i am not familiar with the MK II internals at all .....But you have something strange going on without a doubt !!
 

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well the trigger frame is not for a 1919a4. Just so I Understand - you are sticking a parts kit together without a RH plate or rivets, and grinding on stuff because the parts do not seem to operate ? If you ground on any parts, pretty much toss them out. They are ruined.While the 1919 does not have "tight" tolerances, it does have tolerance requirements and it would not surprise me that things would not operate if the gun was not assembled - correctly. Nothing needs to be ground. Well, maybe rivets, but we are not there yet. It is not clear that you are assembling the semi parts on it ? Those need to be used together - you can't mix semi and FA internals, as the tolerances will be off significantly and binding is assured ( sort of designed that way ) Can you post pics of the kit and what you are trying to accomplish ?
 

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I am beginning to think you may have gotten a Brit MK II open bolt 303 browning kit or parts of one !! The lock frame ,cocking lever (Gunner your eyes are better than mine !!) how close the the lever slot in the bolt is to the right side , the sear cut in the bolt , the extractor and having to grind on the breech block all indicate something is not right !! Can you provide pic of all sides of each component ? Now know this i am not familiar with the MK II internals at all .....But you have something strange going on without a doubt !!
I know you do not have to typically grind anything but rivets, I was just experimenting with the cheapest part.
 

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You defintley have something different ,, I think BBF may be on to something...I can tell you that the bolt and the lock frame where meant to be togather....there is some kind of ramp on the top of the sear and the sear is much thicker then normal ...Try slideing a 30-06 round through the T slot...Or even a 308 / 8mm...If it 303 you will know right away.
 

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PhD in Over-Engineering
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That's a British Open Bolt internals set. More specifically, they are US parts that were modified for the open bolt system by the Brits. APEX has had those, and they will NOT work in a semi auto. The bolt itself is fine, though you might want to replace the Cocking Lever with a USGI one. The British one shown is different, though perhaps not enough to matter. But the lock frame parts are all wrong. It is designed to lock the bolt open after each shot, and that system is not legal for a semi auto in the US even if you could get it to work.

Good call by Belt Fed Frog and also MG08. No question you have to replace some of the components. Breech Lock is definitely in backwards, but I think your barrel extension is otherwise fine, just get a new lock to replace the one you modified. I don't think you can use the lock frame though. That has been modified too much for open bolt parts. So, get a new lock frame assembly, and you can get by with the rest most likely.

Another point or two here. The sear in the bolt is also unique to the open bolt system, but building a semi will require replacing that, so it matters little. Again, I'd replace the cocking lever too, as I am not sure the critical specs are the same. The only mod the Brits did to the bolt itself is that they supposedly heat treated the lugs underneath to better work with the lock frame component that locks the bolt after each shot. That won't matter though.
 
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