1919 A4 Forums banner

101 - 120 of 135 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #102
It has been a while since I have been able to work on the project. Being a parent of three keeps me hopping. It seems that there is always a sports event, a church event, a family event, or a work event nearly every day. Then there was the whole shoulder surgery, bone spurs, and bone tumor thing.

My shoulder has healed enough to let me move the steel around again within reason.

I have continued working on the recoil system. Especially the sled or sleigh. I had to stray from the blueprints a bit there. I have pics of the process, but will post them later when I am a bit further along. That will be a photo heavy post.

I am trying to keep up with my original plan, which was to build from the floor up. I have started the travel lock parts.

Here is the CNC plasma cutter making short work of the parts I programmed.



The cut parts laying on a copy of the original drawing.



bent and welded, not my best work, but welded none-the-less.



Ground an polished up a bit.



Next week I hope to add more of the bits and pieces

Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
I couldnt even fathom taking up a project like this but greatly appreciate the thread. Very cool build sir, hats off to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #104
I have almost got the travel lock finished. I have most of the parts made. I have them mated up in this photo. NOT all parts are welded in. Many are just tacked to make sure that everything lines up, and functions properly. The bolts are not the ones I'm going to use. This is just a progress update.
Ughhhh I know the devil is in the details, but who is ever going to crawl under this thing and see if the travel lock is mostly accurate and functional?
I wonder sometimes, If I'm making this harder than I should.





More later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,481 Posts
gun build

I'm pretty sure that if you were paying someone else to build this thing you could have bought an original one by now! But us in this hobby have to discount our labor or we would never get anything done!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
I am sure you are right. I have no clue how much time I've got standing beside the mill and lathe just make those spring loaded pins, etc that lock into something or hold something. The programming of the CNC plasma cutter really doesn't take that long. Cutting is even faster.
The welding is not bad. The grinding and finishing can get lengthy.

Surprisingly, this has not been too costly of an adventure. All of the round tubing that I'm using is remnants from a work site that were given to me. The 1/4 inch plate I bought two or three years ago just for this. The other thickness of sheet have from reclaimed pieces of other things, except the sheet for the tool box. But even that was short pieces left from another project.
My two brothers, along with a couple friends have helped scavenge materials from various places also. The tires, hubs, spindles, etc for example.
The most expensive single thing I've bought was the DOM tubing I'm going to use for the barrel. I have spent $30 here and $40 there over the past few years, but I really think I'll have less than $1k out of pocket on this and that is spread out over several years. I started gathering stuff for this for a couple of years before I started,and I've now been piddling on it off and on for two years.
My time,..... For me... is free. It's therapeutic to have a project. I like building and problem solving. My problem is i get distracted a lot and work on other things for a while and leave this. It comes around though. I'll eventually finish it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,894 Posts
I'm pretty sure that if you were paying someone else to build this thing you could have bought an original one by now! But us in this hobby have to discount our labor or we would never get anything done!
Yes I agree, same with restoring a ferret. :nuts::nuts::nuts:
I enjoy reading and watching this thread as it's nice to see someone taking on a project most others will walk away from. :)
Keep it up rebel. :thumbup:
CaptMax
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,188 Posts
Andy it is great to see the progress on this I really enjoy the thread and great work as usual my friend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #109
Here are some pics of the work done today on the trunnion plates.
I was able to make the bosses. Originally they were cast in to the recoil buffer tube. Mine are 1 inch wide, half inch thick plate, which is cut to fit inside a piece of channel iron. The channel is welded to a the trunnion plate.

I tack welded the the plate into the channel so that it would not move during drilling. I drilled and tapped three 1/2 inch holes in each side. I also drilled 1/4 holes for alignment pins. Those alignment pins were welded in solid from the back.

The bosses were the placed in the appropriate spots, and multiple pass welded. 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts hold everything in place.

I still have to machine the actual trunnions, which will be inserted into holes yet to be drilled into the plates and then solidly welded. I've yet to decide If I'll round over the tops of the pates before or after drilling for the trunnion.

Of course everything will get a good polish to remove the scale etc before painting.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #110
Got the trunnion plates heated and bent today. Put the barrel blank in for perspective.



 
  • Like
Reactions: 1911ly

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Wow! you have some crazy mad skills and a ton of patience! You attention to details is amazing. What an impressive project. I am looking forward to more updates as you have time.

To say I am impressed would be an understatement!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #112
I turned the actual trunnions today. The left one has the extended stud that is milled for a key. It is also threaded for a nut to hold the sight bracket.



Next I installed the trunnions into the trunnion plates. Fortunately I had a punch to match the diameter of the trunnions. The holes were tight so I had to press them in. I will weld them in solid from the back later.



I don't have the trunnion caps machined or threaded, but I got the recoil buffer and sleigh set in it for a photo shoot.



The rest of the pics are just because this the first time that it has been outside of the shop.





More later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #113 (Edited)
I got around to making the shield/guard support and shield.






It's just held on by "C" clamp now. I still have to make the boss and bracket.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
Continuing with the parts that no one will ever see or appreciate. This travel lock-lock was one of the more frustrating parts I've built for this in a while.
Basically I had to make a large hook that is welded to the bottom of the buffer tube. That was easy. Then the travel lock. I made the sheet metal parts of that a few weeks ago and it was not that bad. Machining the actual spring loaded plunger components was not bad. Today was the actual lock that holds the barrel when traveling. I did not have blueprints for this part, so I spent a lot of time looking at photos or originals, and measuring the parts I had and building to fit. Aggravating work. I can't claim that these are 75% accurate, much less 100%, but it works. And like I said...no one is going to lay on the ground and see if these parts are are interchangeable with the originals.
Details; details.....that's where the Devil is right?

Anyway, I hope ya'll are not getting tired of all the pics.









Here's a video of how smooth it unlatches.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #116
Here is my abberation of an elevation mechanism. It is a highly modified screw type bottle jack. I think after this I'm about ready to take a break again. My patience is running low. However, I've got it mounted, and it does work.
I made the jack a "stubby" jack. It will lift a little over 5 inches now. Three inches of lift will put the bore horizontal. The additional two inches will depress the muzzle quite a bit. I've not actually checked the degrees of elevation +/- yet.
I'm working on the the other side now, but I'm having a hard time coming up with a viable linkage over to an elevation wheel.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #117
In order to maintain progress, I chose to do some mindless fabrication today.

I've been looking online for a while for 6 inch diameter hand wheels. I've had no luck finding one like I wanted, so I decided to make one.

It's not perfect, but it looks closer than any I could find online...... Cheaper too.... If you don't count time.










 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Discussion Starter #118
Since I was in the knob making mood, I decided to make an attempt at the elevation knob. I can't find one of those either.
So here is how I decided to fabricate this cupped and scalloped knob. I had to get creative. It was made from 4 different pieces.



I stacked the two scalloped pieces, and tacked the edges. I intentionally left the inside in a stair step so that the cone would be able to fit better and be supported. The circular piece was hammered into a cone over the horn of an anvil. I didn't know how much to cut out for the overlap so I cut it out and welded the seam when It was the way I liked it.





After centering the cone in the scalloped pieces I welded the bottoms together. The entire thing was placed over a piece of 1.5 inch cold rolled for a mandrel and secured into the vice. I got so excited that it actually worked, that I forgot to take pictures, but what I did was heat the cone with an oxyacetylene torch and hammered it down. The excess was cut off, and the three edges were welded solid.



The piece of cold rolled was cut to length and center bored on the lathe. A 1/4 inch Key slot was cut in the back end. The hub was then welded in...then the grinding began! There is a bit of weld bead left in the cone. I plan to try and chuck the rear of the hub into the lathe and turn the inside a bit and hopefully get rid of that. If not it should be hidden under the firing plunger.

The blueprint says that it would have been made out of malleable cast iron. That gives me a little freedom to leave some of the pores and pits from my work. Hopefully once it is painted it will look like solid cast.





More later.

Andy
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,188 Posts
Great job Andy :thumbup: Keep up the good work brother. It looks like you are getting close have you figured out what's next when it is done?
 
101 - 120 of 135 Posts
Top