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Discussion Starter #1
I acquired 2000 (+/-) rounds of 8mm today. I feel like I got a very good deal on it, at least in today's prices.

It is all in bandoliers on stripper clips.

What I would like to know are the goods and bads regarding this stuff. I am unfamiliar with 8mm ammo. So I will leave it up to you experts. Is this stuff safe to shoot?



These are the two dates that I have found.



Thanks
Andy
 

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It's greek, very hot stuff. Dont run it in a FA beltfed. Blew a bolt apart in my FA mg42 with the stuff. Heard 1919's dont like it ether
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a K98K, but what I bought it for was in hopes of linking it for my semi 1919.
 

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Not Greek, but Turkish and some lots are extremely dangerous to MGs and potentially to any gun. If you shoot it in any gun, make absolutely sure with EVERY round that the case necks are not cracked and that the slugs are not loose in the necks. Any question about a round, do not use it.
Firing from any gun that fires from an open bolt, or chambers a round from an open bolt
should be regarded as dangerous with this ammo as some lots have a well known track record of seriously damaging MGs. I had five or six MG in the shop years ago from Turk ammo when it first came into the USA. If the slug moves out of the neck on chambering just prior to ignition, you will get a violent detonation.
Be very careful with it.
Personally, I would not use it in any firearm. Seen too much damage from it......

Bob Naess
 

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I would second what Bob just said. I only fire 8MM in my 1919 and I would never use that stuff. Seen it at the range and you could literally pull the slug out of the case with just your fingers. Has a really poor reputation.
 

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Andy, that is indeed Turk.........Crescent Moon w/Star, I have bandoliers from years to match each of my Turk Mausers. You can run it in your 1919/1917. I've run thousands of rounds of this stuff.

5.28.2014_003.jpg

A few tips though:

* Be mindful of OAL. I've found different batches/years to be slightly off. I take calipers to a few rounds from each bandolier and only load a single length to each belt.
* Would not be a bad idea to have a ruptured case extractor. Only had (3) out of several thousand rounds, first time - no case extractor in my pouch.
* Some belts/batches run better at zero (barrel lock up) or one click out. OAL diligence. After setting headspace, check clearance of the belt in the feedway/trunnion.
I do this everytime I run a different batch. I store my belts in marked ammo cans and only take like batches/OAL's to each outing.
* Cartridge condition....you should be fine, especially if you got it by the case, but if it looks a little corroded, use that in the Mauser.

* Also the signs stated above....loose projectiles and split necks.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well crap....I should have asked before I got it I guess. Like I said, I got a really good deal on it. Something like 14-15 cent per round. I actually traded something else for it, and when you break it down, for what I paid that's about what it cost me.

SO here is my next question. Just out of curiosity. What if while inspecting these, I ran them through a bullet crimp?
Will probably break them down for components. boooo.
 

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well crap....I should have asked before I got it I guess. Like I said, I got a really good deal on it. Something like 14-15 cent per round. I actually traded something else for it, and when you break it down, for what I paid that's about what it cost me.

SO here is my next question. Just out of curiosity. What if while inspecting these, I ran them through a bullet crimp?
Will probably break them down for components. boooo.
I'm with Bob on this, that stuff is dangerous. About all you got out of this deal was some bandoliers and stripper clips. Be happy you don't have a damaged firearm to go along with it.
 

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I have shot at least 10,000 of rds of turk in a semi with a emery crank. Only had 1 or 2 pop a top cover.

You have to inspect every rd for split necks and loose bullets and only use the best. Check the powder charge. Pull a couple of random rds and measure the powder charge. If they are consistent or real close , run a test belt, of it goes fine, shoot it up. keep headspace tight if FA make sure the timing is on the money and not early. As said above bring a rupt case extractor, they will split and sometimes separate.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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I had several K of 40-41 Turk looks like Rebs stuff except for the bandoleer color (mine were blue/grey) and I threw most it away due to extreme pressure blown primers, hang fire, no ignition, difficult extraction., having to use a rubber mallet to raise the bolt handle on a $39 turk Mauser Scared the crap out of me.
 

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I've shot quite a bit (5k+) in a semi 1919 with no incidents. I do inspect every case tor cracks and loose bullets as well as just shooting it up in its' 1400 round case increments.
 

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Turk 8MM

I've shot quite a bit (5k+) in a semi 1919 with no incidents. I do inspect every case tor cracks and loose bullets as well as just shooting it up in its' 1400 round case increments.
I'm with glass on this one. Inspect, shoot, and no issues for me. I do not use cases with cracked necks, pull those and load into boxer primed brass. I have been saving the cases with cracked necks and will start loading them for crimped blank rounds. So far the few I've experimented and crimped seem to work fine for that purpose. Hornady makes the dies for this project, at nearly $100 for the set one needs to make a lot of blanks. Don't use new brass for this, only use brass at the end of its life. I don't use brass a second time when doing this, it is very hard on the brass.

Nice to see the links from other forums included. Anyone have good information that we will ever see more 8MM at reasonable prices?
 

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I wouldn't shoot that stuff in anything I cared about.

Navy Arms began importing it in the '90s, advertised it as brass case non corrosive. I bought some. My MG34 did not like it one damn bit and I dumped the rest of it.

Since then there have been many instances of damaged guns.

No thanks!
 

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Im not adding much that hasnt already been said so far, but here goes.

DO NOT fire that in ANY kind of semi or full auto.

Feel free to inspect and fire from bolt guns. I put several hundred through a Turk Mauser and had no problems. (Other than the substantial recoil and muzzle blast. )
 

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turk 8mm

i have some of it. i just check it out before i put it in a gun. you will have some loose bullits. i just pitch em.
really had no blow ups. mostly just duds.
tomt
 

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Hi Andy,

We've shot a LOT of this stuff, and like everyone else mentioned, just be carefull...In todays world and prices, I don't throw ANYTHING away..The powder is good, and the bullets are Good, save them...From what you said you paid for them, the bullet itself is worth that for reloading...You can NOT buy 8mm full metal jacket bullets for reloading...You did OK...If you want to pitch the componits, let me know..LOL!!!...Lou
 

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Hi Andy,

We've shot a LOT of this stuff, and like everyone else mentioned, just be carefull...In todays world and prices, I don't throw ANYTHING away..The powder is good, and the bullets are Good, save them...From what you said you paid for them, the bullet itself is worth that for reloading...You can NOT buy 8mm full metal jacket bullets for reloading...You did OK...If you want to pitch the componits, let me know..LOL!!!...Lou

The projectile part is good advice, how one would know that the "powder" (propellant) is "good "or not is a crap shoot. That's really bad advice. ONLY RELOAD WITH KNOWN COMPONENTS. You can weigh and measure the projectile you ( I, and every one else) can only guess at what the performance will be. No one knows how this ammo has been stored "looking good" is a line by Freddie Prinz in Chico and the Man it was a TV show extrapolate from that. I throw everything away that is suspect, if you screw with the bull you will get the horn.
The bull is 50, 000 PSI inches away from your face. As the Cossacks said "Dare, God loves the bold" I however, prefer to keep what's left of my anatomy intact.
 
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