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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have acquired 4 different top-covers with a few different questions about them. I am hoping to attain further wisdom from forum Gurus about these top-covers. It would be nice to gain validation about how I decided to configure their component parts for my intended purposes – and learn about what other internal top-cover components that I need to find to complete one of them or have spares for the others.

Intended Purpose
I intend to run my 1919 primarily in 54R, however I would like the ability to shoot .308 immediately, want to buy BarrelXchange’s eventual 7.62X39 1919 conversion, and considering 30-06 and 8mm in the future.

1919 Configuration
Setup right now to run 54R
Pawl assembly on the side plate is Israeli, as is the right rear cartridge stop

The 54R top-cover is on the 1919A4 right now. Middle top-cover in the photo:
Photo of Top-Covers Link
It is an Israeli top-cover that BarrelXchange modified for 54R. It has the Israeli beveled belt feed lever and lever pivot pin assembly (with washers snugging the lever to the tiny cotter pin),
Top-Cover Nut Photo Link
as well as an Israeli slide and belt feed pawl. I noticed that the beveled edges of the pivot were a little chewed up on the edges,
Pivot Damage - Roughing Photo Link
nothing that seems to affect performance – especially after using a super fine file to remove all rough edges. Does anyone sell the Israeli pivots, are they commercially available (even without the cotter pin hole)?
Only one ¼ inch BEAXID type washer was found in this top-cover’s nut.
Does anyone know the cotter pin size for this type of setup? The photo below shows how much smaller they are than the 1/16 X ½ inch cotter pins I use for the top-cover bolt.
Cotter Pin Photo Link

The top-cover I intend to use for .308 is the lowest top-cover in the photo:
Photo of Top-Covers Link
It is an Israeli top-cover, bought from bmgparts.com. It has an Israeli .308 slide and belt feed pawl installed. However, the lever is not an Israeli beveled model and the pivot appears to be USGI. Unlike the 54R top-cover above or the others to be mentioned, this top-cover nut has a large (same diameter as top-cover nut) BEAXID type washer beneath it (between the nut and top-cover itself – raises the nut)
Close up Photo Link of Top-Cover Nut Washer
Notice that the top-cover nut screw is recessed when tightened. Is that due to the BEAXID type of washer between the nut and top-cover?
Two different BEAXID type of washers were found inside this top-covers bushing, one at about ¼ inch the other at about 1/8 inch… I wonder why?BEAXID Washers 1/8 & 1/4 inch

The .30 top-cover came with the weapon sale and is the upper-most top-cover in photo:
Photo of Top-Covers Link
It has no Israeli marks or modifications. The top-cover nut seems to be staked – I could not remove it – and accidently removed some paint/park from the nut while trying with vice grips and a t-shirt… ugh. This top-cover only has one of the ¼ inch BEAXID washers within the nut. Notice how the screw does not recess like my intended .308 top-cover in the photo below, I wonder if that is because it does not have the large BEAXID type of washer that the top-cover mentioned above (intended for .308) has installed between the nut and top-cover?
Screw Not Recessed in Nut Photo Link

Still not sure that I want to shoot 30-06 or 8mm. I’m still flip-flopping as to whether I should sell this USGI top-cover or keep it as a back-up for .308 use?

The last top-cover is an Israeli modified top-cover that I bought. I will slowly attain the Israeli internal components for this top-cover over birthdays, anniversaries and such. I’m keeping this one in case I ruin another top-cover shown above while running in .308 or 54R. Stripped Israeli Top-Cover Photo Link
Why does this top-cover have a different, hollow type of top-cover screw? Can I buy a USGI type of pivot for use on this top-cover’s nut? Do I need to find the 1/8 or 1/4 inch BEAXID washers for this as well?

Any help with the above would be appreciated. Really looking forward to the weather getting cooler in September. I really appreciate all the parts, help and insight I get from fellow forum members.:eek:
 

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PhD in Over-Engineering
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12,239 Posts
I have acquired 4 different top-covers with a few different questions about them. I am hoping to attain further wisdom from forum Gurus about these top-covers. It would be nice to gain validation about how I decided to configure their component parts for my intended purposes – and learn about what other internal top-cover components that I need to find to complete one of them or have spares for the others.

Intended Purpose
I intend to run my 1919 primarily in 54R, however I would like the ability to shoot .308 immediately, want to buy BarrelXchange’s eventual 7.62X39 1919 conversion, and considering 30-06 and 8mm in the future.

1919 Configuration
Setup right now to run 54R
Pawl assembly on the side plate is Israeli, as is the right rear cartridge stop

The 54R top-cover is on the 1919A4 right now. Middle top-cover in the photo:
Photo of Top-Covers Link
It is an Israeli top-cover that BarrelXchange modified for 54R. It has the Israeli beveled belt feed lever and lever pivot pin assembly (with washers snugging the lever to the tiny cotter pin),
Top-Cover Nut Photo Link
as well as an Israeli slide and belt feed pawl. I noticed that the beveled edges of the pivot were a little chewed up on the edges,
Pivot Damage - Roughing Photo Link
nothing that seems to affect performance – especially after using a super fine file to remove all rough edges. Does anyone sell the Israeli pivots, are they commercially available (even without the cotter pin hole)?
Only one ¼ inch BEAXID type washer was found in this top-cover’s nut.
Does anyone know the cotter pin size for this type of setup? The photo below shows how much smaller they are than the 1/16 X ½ inch cotter pins I use for the top-cover bolt.
Cotter Pin Photo Link

It is not uncommon to see those Izzy pivot pins all beat up. I have not seen any of these for sale, generally. The ones I've had over the years have all been out of cover assemblies. I got rid of all but one, which I keep for reference. I understand the advantage of what they did, as it keeps the lever tied from drooping, which sometimes happens with the USGI system. But I just don't like that cotter pin on top. These are probably a metric size. I'd just measure the hole and see what you can find to fit. Or, just replace with the US system. Some beveled feed levers will work with the US pin, even with less purchase. Feed levers are common, so you can find USGI easily too.

The top-cover I intend to use for .308 is the lowest top-cover in the photo:
Photo of Top-Covers Link
It is an Israeli top-cover, bought from bmgparts.com. It has an Israeli .308 slide and belt feed pawl installed. However, the lever is not an Israeli beveled model and the pivot appears to be USGI. Unlike the 54R top-cover above or the others to be mentioned, this top-cover nut has a large (same diameter as top-cover nut) BEAXID type washer beneath it (between the nut and top-cover itself – raises the nut)
Close up Photo Link of Top-Cover Nut Washer
Notice that the top-cover nut screw is recessed when tightened. Is that due to the BEAXID type of washer between the nut and top-cover?
Two different BEAXID type of washers were found inside this top-covers bushing, one at about ¼ inch the other at about 1/8 inch… I wonder why?BEAXID Washers 1/8 & 1/4 inch

Whether or not the set screw is recessed is of little concern. The washers are not always present. That your one has two washers is probably just accidental, as there is no functional reason for that. I don't use the lock washers most of the time, but it doesn't matter either way. With no enemy soldiers shooting back at us, and most of us just putting a couple hundred rounds in semi auto down range from time to time, you are not likely to have that assembly come loose. Still, use the washers since you have them.

The large washer under the nut seems to have been a post war addition. In theory, this allows for easier disassembly. I see from below that you tried to remove one of the normally-staked nuts from a top cover, so you will see why some might find the lock washer an advantage. Only, however, if one is inclined to pull that completely apart. That is generally unnecessary unless one does so for refinishing purposes. For regular cleaning and maintenance, pulling the nut and bushing is not needed.


The .30 top-cover came with the weapon sale and is the upper-most top-cover in photo:
Photo of Top-Covers Link
It has no Israeli marks or modifications. The top-cover nut seems to be staked – I could not remove it – and accidently removed some paint/park from the nut while trying with vice grips and a t-shirt… ugh. This top-cover only has one of the ¼ inch BEAXID washers within the nut. Notice how the screw does not recess like my intended .308 top-cover in the photo below, I wonder if that is because it does not have the large BEAXID type of washer that the top-cover mentioned above (intended for .308) has installed between the nut and top-cover?
Screw Not Recessed in Nut Photo Link

As stated above, the recess or lack of same matters not at all. The use of the washers at both locations will be part of the distinction for sure. This is all about what preferences you develop. Staking or large washer, depending on whether or not you want to remove nut and bushing. Small washer between pin and set screw, just an added measure of security that probably doesn't matter much but never hurts.

Still not sure that I want to shoot 30-06 or 8mm. I’m still flip-flopping as to whether I should sell this USGI top-cover or keep it as a back-up for .308 use?

I'd keep the USGI cover, as it will work with 308 and 8mm as well. Never can have too many spares.


The last top-cover is an Israeli modified top-cover that I bought. I will slowly attain the Israeli internal components for this top-cover over birthdays, anniversaries and such. I’m keeping this one in case I ruin another top-cover shown above while running in .308 or 54R. Stripped Israeli Top-Cover Photo Link
Why does this top-cover have a different, hollow type of top-cover screw? Can I buy a USGI type of pivot for use on this top-cover’s nut? Do I need to find the 1/8 or 1/4 inch BEAXID washers for this as well?

The hollow set screw is Israeli. I'd get the USGI parts for the pivot and lever. Available from the usual major surplus outfits.

Any help with the above would be appreciated. Really looking forward to the weather getting cooler in September. I really appreciate all the parts, help and insight I get from fellow forum members.:eek:
Hope this all helps
 

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Thats a Wrap on this one .

:handclap:
 

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I might be off here, but I have read of a "T" cut in the Top Cover in case of a round going off to allow the pressure out without damage(or minimizing)

Am I off or is this a way to keep your Top cover in decent shape?
 

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I might be off here, but I have read of a "T" cut in the Top Cover in case of a round going off to allow the pressure out without damage(or minimizing)

Am I off or is this a way to keep your Top cover in decent shape?
This is the first I have heard about this any pictures?
 

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quote from subguns - "4) Get a spare top cover and send it to Mike Kloss to have him cut a T-slot in it.
After this you will never blow a top cover or bow a side plate."

Have an email into Mike but have not heard back yet.
 

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PhD in Over-Engineering
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Well, that's a first for me as well. I've never suffered an out-of-battery yet, but I've been around a few. Let us know what you find out. Kind of makes sense, to have an escape route for that event.
 

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I'm thinking that would have to be a mighty big T-slot to relieve enough pressure to not damage the top cover. I had one go off where the case head simply disintegrated (and this was in battery!). The top cover bent like a banana, the barrel extension cracked on both sides, we had a dryer hose running from the bottom of the gun into a 5 gallon bucket with a lid and the lid blew out. The amount of gas that is generated in that very short period of time is incredible. And having been behind the gun when all that happened, the LAST thing I want is something that is going to allow that gas to vent up. In the grand scheme of things, top covers are cheap, but everything from the neck up is not. IMHO, it is not worth risking all of that to maybe save a top cover.

Just my two cents......

Chris
 

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PhD in Over-Engineering
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Chris, your priorities are all wrong. It's not the shooter's well being that is at stake. Shooters are disposable and a renewable resource. Okay, and so are top covers. But if it saves potential bowing of a valuable side plate, that's well worth the price of an eye here, a finger there, a little painful shrapnel or powder burns, even a total loss in the event of the rare fatality. Let's not lose perspective here! :tongue:
 

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With a good portion of the bottom of the weapon open I would think much of the gas would vent downward however, like noted there is a tremendous and rapid rise in pressure from the propellant burning and bent covers are the result I have never been a big fan of ad hoc engineering and modifications, just too many things to go wrong. I keep a completely assembled top cover at hand but have never had to use it (so far).
 
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