These things have an inherent heavy trigger pull, but the reset spring is what's causing most of the tension you feel. Remove your lockframe and remove the reset spring, reinstall it without the spring and try the trigger and you'll determine how much is trigger pull and how much is spring tension...you just have to reset the trigger manually after each pull while you're playing with it and don't live fire it obviously.
Check out the spring bending tutorial on the home page...I start with a wire 3/8" longer than shown so the finished spring is longer giving more leverage with less trigger exertion, but yielding the same force. The music wire will cost you about $1 and takes 10 minutes to bend your first one.
Deburring the trigger and sear is okay, but you don't want to dress down the engaging surfaces in an attempt to smooth up or lighten the trigger pull. One problem that has occurred is tight sear slots. I went back and reviewed your prior posts and it looks like you possibly did the machining yourself so it's probably okay, but you may want to remove the sear and just make double sure that it slides easily top to bottom in the sear slot...it might bind just a tad at the very top of the slot, but that's no biggie. If it binds in the working area of the slot then remove it, color it with a Sharpie marker and then work it up and down in the slot to determine the area of conflict and then lightly file the sear in those areas until it slides unencumbered.
BTW, you don't really want to shorten the upward trigger travel. By doing so decreases the downward travel on the other end and if you do that too much the disconnector will hammer into the bolt valley just forward of the sear and not ride up and over it. I personally back out my trigger stop screw in the lockframe as far as I can to get max upward travel.
Good luck.