1919 A4 Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
finished s/n 060606 tonight and have some question. I used allegany arsenal chemicals. It said to apply the neutralizer right after rinsing. It did not say anything about drying or air blowing so I assumed it was OK to apply still wet? Too late now but in the future? After applying what then? Should I wipe it down, clean it off or apply an oil over that? How long should I keep it on?

All and all I'm really not too happy with the out come. The gun is an ugly grey black, uneven and thin looking. It really brought out the machining on the new side plate and any place the rivits were ground down flush. The front sight block and bolt handle hardly took any parkerizing at all.

Oh well, I gave it a shot and I'm tired of futzing with it and am ready to put it all back together and shoot. I ordered an A6 stock and bipod from Numrich friday and should get it soon. Another project done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
Did you glass bead it before you parkerized it?

Glass beading usually will even out the finish pretty well and remove most if not all of the machinig marks but there willl be differences in the finish on different pieces of steel as they are not all the same hardness, particularly on laser cut sideplates where the edges need to be ground off to break through the thin hardening that the laser produces.

After parkerizing, you rinse it then blow it dry and soak it down with oil and leave it. I usually leave mine overnight and just let the excess drain off the piece in a pan.

You can always refinish it if you want.....thats the beauty of parkerizing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,797 Posts
I glass beaded 6 or 7 of them and came to the conclusion sand works a lot better. Glass left the metal too smooth, thus leaving a polished look to the sideplates. I think even rough wetsanding would help with machining marks rather than glass beading. JMHO. Oh, and the smoother finish on my guns left some spots uneven in depth of color too. None of my bolts took a good park, and most wore off within 6 months anyhow, as did the finish on all my boosters, but I think that burned off :D

Try a rougher finish and a little warmer solution ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
brassmagnet said:
I glass beaded 6 or 7 of them and came to the conclusion sand works a lot better. Glass left the metal too smooth, thus leaving a polished look to the sideplates. I think even rough wetsanding would help with machining marks rather than glass beading. JMHO. Oh, and the smoother finish on my guns left some spots uneven in depth of color too. None of my bolts took a good park, and most wore off within 6 months anyhow, as did the finish on all my boosters, but I think that burned off :D

Try a rougher finish and a little warmer solution ?
Good point, mine were actually done with a mix of 2/3 glass beads and 1/3 Black Beauty. It worked very well. I used the term glass beaded loosely as there are many mixes that will produce different results. You are correct that a more coarse surface will parkerize better and more evenly.

As far as internals, I wouldn't worry too much about them as they are coated with oil on a regular basis and wear is expected.

I've found that a solution temp of 195 degrees works great.

Every gun I've seen has its own unique character in the finish.....but they all
look good to me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,504 Posts
The quality of the park job depends on the blasting, temp and cleaning before going into the tank. If it's blasted 100% where the whole part is completely bright and then cleaned it should come out great. Some guys make the mistake of leaving some of the old park on the sideplates...that will come out blotchy. If it's blasted then allowed to sit overnight the park job will come out uneven...you have to go straight from the blast cabinet to the park tank in short order. If it's handled with bare hands between cleaning and the tank it will have hand grease on it and won't park. I don't use the neutralizer...just air dried then oiled. Also, you have to use the right qty of water with the parking agent or it will be too weak.

I've never used anything but glass bead and never had a problem with the finish, but everyone has their favorite recipe.

Parts using AA solution...all came out even and thickly coated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I did have it glass beaded but I took a couple days to clean out the grit and oils in the seams with break cleaners and then used the AA cleaner just before dipping.

"You can always refinish it if you want.....thats the beauty of parkerizing." You mean I could put it back in with out sanding or would I have to resand it? Since I don't have a blaster I don't feel like spending another $60 doing it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Not really Skikir, Lobo is right. It has to go from the blast cabinet to the park tank. If it sits around your gonna get a splotchy result. I degrease before blasting, hit it with air and drop it in the tank. I rinse in tap water and blow it dry. Then I just oil it.

If you have an air compressor, you can build a blast cabinet for $120 bucks big enough to blast a receiver with a barrel shroud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
park

Do you guys drop your parts into the bottom of the tank or hang them in the tank.I hung the parts off wire hooks. Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
loaded said:
Do you guys drop your parts into the bottom of the tank or hang them in the tank.I hung the parts off wire hooks. Bill

I've always hung them on stainless wire hooks. Small parts go in a stainless basket or on a magnet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
I've noticed that sediment can lay on top of the parts.

I also like hang them and agitate every couple of minutes during the process.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top