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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings to all from another FNG (sorta).
I have been reading and studying for a long time, and
have accumulated a pile of iron. This includes two
OOW kits (very nice) in the 1919's, one FN30 I got
cause at the time it was cheaper than the 1919a4 from
FAC.
Anyway to the question, the AK 47.net forum shows
the use of these type of rivit. Would these be strong
enough for a 1919a4 build? They are quick, easy and
look great. I realize that there are large differences in
these weapons, but would it work? Of course the big
rivits would be a must, but for the smaller rivits this
could be an option if strong enough.
For anyone not familiar with these, they are a press in
screw or rivit with twisted "fluting" around the main
body. They have a domed head, and can be inserted
with a press (best option) or hammer. Available in
a large variety of sizes and very very affordable.
I have been kicking this around, and decided to consult
the "Masters" prior to making an attempt.
Thanks to all who contribute to this site, the knowledge
and time invested is appreciated by those of us who
you have inspired to max out the credit card. Not to
mention you all are pretty funny.
 

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BeltFed GURU
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Throttle
what you are describing is known as a drive rivit and not safe to assemble a 1919 with ya do it like JM Browning designed or get into trouble
AK`s lock the bolt into the trunnion this does not happen with a 1919 or an FN 30 so all the force in a 1919 /30 is in the box not the trunnion
 

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those Drive rivets are designed for light duty applications, like holding a serial number plate on... they have no usage in builing any type of firearm..

Proper riviting is not that hard to do..
 

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Well, for what its worth, one of the "name" builders that posts here uses driven rivets and welds both the sideplates to the bottom plate. I know this for a fact cause I'm looking at on of them at this very moment. Maybe he will chime in?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input, I kinda thought they might be iffy.
I will be using the tried and true. Thanks to James at
Allied for the last two sets of rivets.
In using the muffler gun method, has anyone tried to
put some kind of protection on the plate to avoid the
ringing around the rivet head? My thinking was a couple
layers of heavy tape, or some card stock with a hole
punched in it to act as a shield. I really got a couple
of nice kits from OOW and do not want to mess them up.
Later,
Throttle
 

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I myself would not use the drive rivets as I like my face the way it is but as HottAK47 said since these are not squeazed rivets welding would have to be done to comply with ATF rules.
 

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The correct weld job is stronger than any bolt or rivet. If the weld is done correctly, the rivets are just for show anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Big thanks for all the responses. I really do not want to
do the welding. Between the tutorals, and encouragement
provided here, I am going to go with the rivets.
So far this site is a bad (or good) addiction, I can't wait to get the guns up and running. Somehow I think it is gonna
get worse.
Later,
Throttle
 

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patm41 said:
those Drive rivets are designed for light duty applications, like holding a serial number plate on... they have no usage in builing any type of firearm..
On the contrary, "Type U Drive Screws" work quite well for AK builds.

However, 1919's don't have sheet metal receivers, so that would be pushing it a bit too far.
 
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