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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good afternoon all. I'm on the hunt for another kit, but this time I want to have it refinished. Do any of you offer Parkerizing for a service charge? When I find a kit id like to send it to one of you and the rsp so they can be matched before assembly.
 

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For what it is worth, I like to build and test fire, then apply the finish of choice. Things can get scratched and even dinged up during the riveting process. IMHO best to wait until you have the box together and all the internals working correctly before applying final finish.
 

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Agreed I would assemble then parkerized but it would help to know where you are located since we have so many members here all over and most are willing to help another beltfed brother.
 

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Agreed...

After having assembled over 100+Browning's,agree that it is much better....time,effort and frustration...to assemble and test before parking the piece or individual pieces. When 30cal (Brian) machines an internal set,he parks the pieces so they can be checked during fitment.

I recall one build party where several folks stood in line to sand blast their parts before even an attempt was made to assemble the box,check the internals fit,etc. The time and effort used to do so was a complete waste,as after their assembly,fitment check and riveting, they had to blast the parts again to park 'em. I'm lazy...I hate to have to do stuff over again....LOL.
 

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Good afternoon all. I'm on the hunt for another kit, but this time I want to have it refinished. Do any of you offer Parkerizing for a service charge? When I find a kit id like to send it to one of you and the rsp so they can be matched before assembly.
I offer parkerizing services in both zinc phosphate (light gray) and manganese phosphate (dark gray). You can get my contact info and some pics of my work from my website: http://www.RetroArmsWorks.com

Don't hesitate to give me a call, if you're interested. I'd love to help you out with your project.

John Thomas
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the leads and information gents. Just waiting for my mk6 Leopold scope to sell so I can buy another 1919a4 kit!!!
 

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If one's a newbie, it would help us help you if we knew a bit more about you, and whether you're nearby. You might want to fill in your profile so we'd know where you're at, etc.


Carry On!
Gary
><>
 

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After having assembled over 100+Browning's,agree that it is much better....time,effort and frustration...to assemble and test before parking the piece or individual pieces. When 30cal (Brian) machines an internal set,he parks the pieces so they can be checked during fitment.

I recall one build party where several folks stood in line to sand blast their parts before even an attempt was made to assemble the box,check the internals fit,etc. The time and effort used to do so was a complete waste,as after their assembly,fitment check and riveting, they had to blast the parts again to park 'em. I'm lazy...I hate to have to do stuff over again....LOL.
I just did these last night. I guess I'm doing this backward then, aren't I ? :D

Just kidding, the sight base and sideplate were rusted and the feed chute had the OEM white enamel on it, so these parts needed to be blasted and parked before assembly anyhow. They're also going to sit around for a few months before I put it together and I was bored while waiting for some coated parts to bake... (that is dirt in the oil you're seeing, not the finish of the parts)




...and before someone says that I should not be oiling the parts if I am going to parkerize them again because I just created more work for myself: I KNOW. ;)
 

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I might be laughed off this thread. But I used durapark from duracoat on a side plate that had been parkerized before but was in poor condition and a few individual parts like a crankfire. I would never consider using this substitute to do the entire gun but a great solution for smaller projects. It is slightly darker than phosphate pakerizing but replicates the look very nicely and is a supper tough coating. It has a can within a can. The hardener is dispensed by pushing a valve on the bottom of the can releasing it into the main part of the can. After shaking it vigorously for a few minutes you have something pretty unique and will last for a few weeks in the can before it goes bad. Can be applied to any type of bare metal or over existing bluing, parkerizing or anodizing! I will use again, have some projects on several other guns. I don't need a bunch of equipment and chemicals or have to take it to someone to do it for me. Anybody can use this stuff, degrease the part and after 3 or 4 coats, looks and acts like a phosphate coating. Holding the spray can away 2 to 3 feet for the last coat will even get that grainy look.
 

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When I first got into M14's I asked a friend of mine what it would take to repark some parts. He answered my question with a question, "Do you know how to boil water?"
 

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all this park crap.

ya want it done4
KMP will no frills do it for $150.00 you take apart and clean.----we blast and park.and oil
you assemble and sell.
tomt
 
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