Best manganese solution recommendations?
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The nicest uniform almost black manganese parked parts I’ve seen used this solution. Here’s a link.
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Bill I think that I already told you but Greg's solution at Allegheny Arsenal is the best and very forgiving. There are a few tricks depending on how black you want it but his standard manganese solution will yield a very dark black park.
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I've been Parking my own projects and builds for near on 35-40 years and have never found a better product than
Greg's at Allegheny.......an it seems to be unanimous. If you don't mind...I'd like be rude and butt in with a question for some of the other Old Timers here. Seems like a "long time ago" we were on a mission to discover the magic formula for creating a finished park job that replicated the dark green hue that a lot of the WWII weapons had....which we heard was due to long term storage in cosmoline. One of the last unsubstanciated rumors I heard was after the final rinse was to immerse the weapon in Texaco Havoline 30W motor oil for a few weeks. I never tried it and once every 5-10 years the subject comes up. This thread has stirred up the dust in my 70 years old few brains cells.....and so I'm asking....has anyone perfected the evasive "Dark Green Hue"...???
Thanks for your patience.
TiredIron
Greg's at Allegheny.......an it seems to be unanimous. If you don't mind...I'd like be rude and butt in with a question for some of the other Old Timers here. Seems like a "long time ago" we were on a mission to discover the magic formula for creating a finished park job that replicated the dark green hue that a lot of the WWII weapons had....which we heard was due to long term storage in cosmoline. One of the last unsubstanciated rumors I heard was after the final rinse was to immerse the weapon in Texaco Havoline 30W motor oil for a few weeks. I never tried it and once every 5-10 years the subject comes up. This thread has stirred up the dust in my 70 years old few brains cells.....and so I'm asking....has anyone perfected the evasive "Dark Green Hue"...???
Thanks for your patience.
TiredIron
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1,141 Posts
You probably did Russ - CRS man 😂
Thanks - remind me on heat source you like?
I have made it my personal mission to get to the bottom of this. There are many tricks to fake it, and cosmoline seems to the best one. I, personally, do not buy the story that it was cosmoline, and only cosmoline. I've been gathering chemicals and testing theories, but I as of yet cannot say for certain what caused it, but the experimenting will continue. And let me put this out there... if anyone reading this does know what specifically was wonky with the solution/final rinse/pre-dip or any combination thereof which caused the green hue, kindly drop me a private message. It will be immensely appreciated!
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You don't need anything fancy a double burner turkey fryer will work.
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Here's the text on how to green park from a VERY OLD post on 1919A4. I had saved the link, but it won't open.
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Mode11-11-2007 11:27 AM #1 MSG
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BFH wielding hack
Join DateMay 2006
LocationCentral GA
Posts1,378 Green Park.
I'm going to repost this because I wound like some other board members to
try it.
First – this is not mine. It is a compilation of discussions on three or
four threads I read over the last several years. I’ve never tried to make
any money off this because it is simply information given freely by several
others. Will this work for you? I don’t know. It does work for me. One
reason I am posting this is because I would like several other people to
verify my results. There may or may not be something else that is
influencing my results. Give this a try so we can all find out.
Here's a photo of the finish on my 1919a4.
Here goes.
1. Degrease: Mineral spirits, White gas, boil in Simple Green or dish soap,
sonic cleaner, whatever. I knocked off the heavy stuff with white gas and
then boiled in dish soap and then clear water.
2. Sand blast: A few people use glass beads, I use sand media.
3. Pre-heat: Kitchen oven, approx. 180 F. I Park in a large steam table pan
on a Coleman stove, and this helps me maintain temperature. Those of you
with proper equipment can probably omit this step. If the heat reveals oil
stains, I’ll spray these with brake cleaner.
4. Acid bath: Muriatic acid. It’s less than $6.00 a gallon at Lowe’s.
5. Rinse: I use hot, clear water. The heated water aids in controlling the
Park tank temp.
6. Prepare Park solution: I use Dutch’s Ospho Parking solution and witches
brew. He says one 32 oz bottle makes about four gallons (1 in 16). I’m using
a stronger solution, but probably don’t need to. Dissolve three or four new
(zinc) pennies (tribute to Abe) in approx. six ounces of Ospho before
diluting with water. An equivalent amount of zinc from other sources (I’ve
used electrical fittings) can be used. Add remaining Ospho to make desired
amount of solution, heat to 190 F. Dissolve ½ TBS clean (remove oil), fine
steel wool (essence of Brillo) in warm solution.
7. Park: Hang parts in 190 F solution for 12 to 15 minutes. Mine never stops
bubbling.
8. Rinse: In hot water to stop reaction.
9. Dry: I start with a hair drier to remove all water droplets, and then
hang in a low temp (170 F) oven.
10. Treat: I slather the parts with TC Bore Butter by hand. Just let the
pores suck it up. I have also gotten similar results with Bag Balm, but have
not tested this as much. It’s green.
Discussion:
I read numerous times that the green tint was caused by old Cosmoline and
time. I’ve also read the weapons were already green during WWII. The Lanolin
(wool oil) in old Cosmoline was also credited. Another member posted that
old or dirty park solution was the cause. I don’t know what actually does
it, but I tried several angles.
By Parking several test pieces first, and limiting quality control measures,
I have the dirty Park solution thing down. Reusing the solution makes sure
it’s dirty too.
Though I tried treating with several compounds (Old Cosmo, CLP, new motor
oil, used motor oil, QuickSilver, grease, Bag Balm, Bore Butter, WD-40,
etc), only the Bore Butter and Bag Balm produced a green finish. The Bag
Balm does contain lanolin; I have no idea what’s in TC Bore Butter (though
it is an all natural, food grade material).
The commercial Parking solutions may or may not work. Ospho also contains
“wetting agents” and “extenders,” including chromium compounds, that may
also affect the color.
Some steels (Pin stock, 4140 RSPs, also see the forward Cartridge stop in
the photo) still come out dark gray.
As members post questions, I will amend the original post to clarify.
MSG
Last edited by MSG; 04-26-2011 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Reposted photo. Reply
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11-11-2007 12:05 PM #2 Kojak
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Posts800 Thank you for posting this
Which justified my donation to this site to keep it alive!
Happy Armistice Day!
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LIBERALISM IS A MENTAL DISORDER - Michael Savage: www.michaelsavage.com Reply
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11-24-2007 07:53 PM #3 heart_of_darkness
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Posts9
http://www.odcmp.org/new_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39388
I haven't personally tried it, but a poster on the CMP forums got a fairly
greenish park using high sulfer content thread cutting oil. Reply Reply
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11-28-2007 04:37 PM #4 Starvingboy
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Posts824 Newbie question
Newbie question: What are the pennies and brillo pads for?
" Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and
he'll be warm for the rest of his life. " Reply Reply With Quote Blog
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01-23-2008 08:56 PM #5 MSG
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BFH wielding hack
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Posts1,378
Pennies are just the most readily available source of zinc. As I said, other
zinc scraps can also be disolved in the solution. The steel wool "activates"
the solution. Some commercial kits provide iron filings.
MSG Reply Reply With Quote Blog this Post
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Mode11-11-2007 11:27 AM #1 MSG
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Homepage View Articles Add as Contact Send Email
BFH wielding hack
Join DateMay 2006
LocationCentral GA
Posts1,378 Green Park.
I'm going to repost this because I wound like some other board members to
try it.
First – this is not mine. It is a compilation of discussions on three or
four threads I read over the last several years. I’ve never tried to make
any money off this because it is simply information given freely by several
others. Will this work for you? I don’t know. It does work for me. One
reason I am posting this is because I would like several other people to
verify my results. There may or may not be something else that is
influencing my results. Give this a try so we can all find out.
Here's a photo of the finish on my 1919a4.
Here goes.
1. Degrease: Mineral spirits, White gas, boil in Simple Green or dish soap,
sonic cleaner, whatever. I knocked off the heavy stuff with white gas and
then boiled in dish soap and then clear water.
2. Sand blast: A few people use glass beads, I use sand media.
3. Pre-heat: Kitchen oven, approx. 180 F. I Park in a large steam table pan
on a Coleman stove, and this helps me maintain temperature. Those of you
with proper equipment can probably omit this step. If the heat reveals oil
stains, I’ll spray these with brake cleaner.
4. Acid bath: Muriatic acid. It’s less than $6.00 a gallon at Lowe’s.
5. Rinse: I use hot, clear water. The heated water aids in controlling the
Park tank temp.
6. Prepare Park solution: I use Dutch’s Ospho Parking solution and witches
brew. He says one 32 oz bottle makes about four gallons (1 in 16). I’m using
a stronger solution, but probably don’t need to. Dissolve three or four new
(zinc) pennies (tribute to Abe) in approx. six ounces of Ospho before
diluting with water. An equivalent amount of zinc from other sources (I’ve
used electrical fittings) can be used. Add remaining Ospho to make desired
amount of solution, heat to 190 F. Dissolve ½ TBS clean (remove oil), fine
steel wool (essence of Brillo) in warm solution.
7. Park: Hang parts in 190 F solution for 12 to 15 minutes. Mine never stops
bubbling.
8. Rinse: In hot water to stop reaction.
9. Dry: I start with a hair drier to remove all water droplets, and then
hang in a low temp (170 F) oven.
10. Treat: I slather the parts with TC Bore Butter by hand. Just let the
pores suck it up. I have also gotten similar results with Bag Balm, but have
not tested this as much. It’s green.
Discussion:
I read numerous times that the green tint was caused by old Cosmoline and
time. I’ve also read the weapons were already green during WWII. The Lanolin
(wool oil) in old Cosmoline was also credited. Another member posted that
old or dirty park solution was the cause. I don’t know what actually does
it, but I tried several angles.
By Parking several test pieces first, and limiting quality control measures,
I have the dirty Park solution thing down. Reusing the solution makes sure
it’s dirty too.
Though I tried treating with several compounds (Old Cosmo, CLP, new motor
oil, used motor oil, QuickSilver, grease, Bag Balm, Bore Butter, WD-40,
etc), only the Bore Butter and Bag Balm produced a green finish. The Bag
Balm does contain lanolin; I have no idea what’s in TC Bore Butter (though
it is an all natural, food grade material).
The commercial Parking solutions may or may not work. Ospho also contains
“wetting agents” and “extenders,” including chromium compounds, that may
also affect the color.
Some steels (Pin stock, 4140 RSPs, also see the forward Cartridge stop in
the photo) still come out dark gray.
As members post questions, I will amend the original post to clarify.
MSG
Last edited by MSG; 04-26-2011 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Reposted photo. Reply
Reply With Quote Blog this Post
11-11-2007 12:05 PM #2 Kojak
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Master Armorer
Join DateMay 2006
Posts800 Thank you for posting this
Which justified my donation to this site to keep it alive!
Happy Armistice Day!
"I'm a Millionaire - I own a mansion and a yacht" - Elmer J. Fudd
LIBERALISM IS A MENTAL DISORDER - Michael Savage: www.michaelsavage.com Reply
Reply With Quote Blog this Post
11-24-2007 07:53 PM #3 heart_of_darkness
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FNG
Join DateNov 2006
Posts9
http://www.odcmp.org/new_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39388
I haven't personally tried it, but a poster on the CMP forums got a fairly
greenish park using high sulfer content thread cutting oil. Reply Reply
With Quote Blog this Post
11-28-2007 04:37 PM #4 Starvingboy
View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message View Blog Entries View
Articles Add as Contact Send Email
Gold Member
Join DateAug 2007
LocationCentral Ohio
Posts824 Newbie question
Newbie question: What are the pennies and brillo pads for?
" Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and
he'll be warm for the rest of his life. " Reply Reply With Quote Blog
this Post
01-23-2008 08:56 PM #5 MSG
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Homepage View Articles Add as Contact Send Email
BFH wielding hack
Join DateMay 2006
LocationCentral GA
Posts1,378
Pennies are just the most readily available source of zinc. As I said, other
zinc scraps can also be disolved in the solution. The steel wool "activates"
the solution. Some commercial kits provide iron filings.
MSG Reply Reply With Quote Blog this Post
+ Reply to Thread
Quick Navigation Semi 1919a4 Building Top
Site AreasSettingsPrivate MessagesSubscriptionsWho's OnlineSearch ForumsForums
HomeForums1919-related Semi 1919a4 Building50 Cal, M2HB, 50 BMGFull Auto
1919a4TripodsBelt LoadersTech ForumThe Ammo Dump1919a4 VideosGun Stuff
ArtilleryWWI & WWII Bolt Action Rifles - Technical & Historical
informationM1 Carbine: Technical & HistoricalOther Military Firearms -
Technical & Historical informationReloadingM1 Garand - Technical &
Historical informationMisc FirearmsBuy, Sell, Trade, etc. Featured Ads1919a4
Ad BoardM1 CarbineM1 GarandWWI & WWII Bolt Action RiflesOther Military
FirearmsMisc Ad BoardGroup Buys1919a4.com Raffles, Misc and Garage
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SurvivalPolitical FlamesScheduled Events vBulletin Message Cancel Changes
ErrorsThe following errors occurred with your submissionOkay Quick Reply
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GMT -6. The time now is 05:51 PM.
Powered by vBulletin™ Version 4.1.0
Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved. This site
contains information on legal 1919 semi- and full-auto firearms. The information
in these web pages is not intended to be used to construct illegal devices, nor
is it intended to be viewed by minors. All NFA rules apply. Copyright 1999-2010
1919A4.com. No reproduction without permission. The opinions on this forum are
those of the poster, not of management or administration. We are protected by
Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act.
here is link to above referenced post
www.1919a4.com
Green Park.
I'm going to repost this because I would like some other board members to try it. First – this is not mine. It is a compilation of discussions on three or four threads I read over the last several years. I’ve never tried to make any money off this because it is simply information given freely...
www.1919a4.com
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