Blue wonder gun blue
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Is this the same stuff that guy sells at knob creek towards the back of the barn?
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Hmm, I watched a vid on youtube for the blue wonder and it seemed to be pretty simple and go on good, but im wondering about the wear it can handle. I liked the fact that you dont have to submerge anything cuz I plan on blueing my reciever after it is assembled so I get the rivets and all.
What kind of problems did you have SDK???
What kind of problems did you have SDK???
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2,141 Posts
yeah i watched the video and thought maybe i could get it right...
just didnt come together for me. im not sure if it was in my prep work or in the application but i couldnt keep it from looking "streaky" or having wipe marks...
probably just me. ive got a routine that i use for the other stuff and thats always gonna bleed into how you use another product, even if you dont notice...
just didnt come together for me. im not sure if it was in my prep work or in the application but i couldnt keep it from looking "streaky" or having wipe marks...
probably just me. ive got a routine that i use for the other stuff and thats always gonna bleed into how you use another product, even if you dont notice...
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My results on an antique rifle were something of a disappointment, I put the blue wonder on and a day later I stripped off most of it just wiped off with 00 steel wool, except the receiver I had to buff it off. As a result I bought berch wood casey browning solution and hot browned the entire gun, a lot of hot stinky work but its coated and those areas that the blue didn't adhere to- the browning did. Its all about the prep though.
The gel wonder bore cleaner that came with the kit worked pretty good.
The gel wonder bore cleaner that came with the kit worked pretty good.
Duti i used that Brownells oven cure stuff at first ,if you even looked at it wrong it would rub off.
I held my breath and used Dura Coat and i didn't bake it ,i left it in a metal storage room for 2 weeks in the hot summer sun.
Now six weeks later it is so9me hard stuff ,and it dosent wear off easily.
The Matt Black looks like a park finish if you mix it right , and i used the semi gloss on an old S&W revolver and it did look pretty good.
Nothing beats a nice deep polished blue , but the semi gloss looks better than a cold blue.
I held my breath and used Dura Coat and i didn't bake it ,i left it in a metal storage room for 2 weeks in the hot summer sun.
Now six weeks later it is so9me hard stuff ,and it dosent wear off easily.
The Matt Black looks like a park finish if you mix it right , and i used the semi gloss on an old S&W revolver and it did look pretty good.
Nothing beats a nice deep polished blue , but the semi gloss looks better than a cold blue.
WOW that looks good , are you sure you aint showing off those guns ??
How did you do that ? Did you heat the metal a little first ? i heard that helps.
Parking and Dura coat wouldn't be the era correct finish for all of them.
Dura coat says you can bake it ,but they say it is better as a slow cure.
A 100 degree storage building or a garage works wonders though.
How did you do that ? Did you heat the metal a little first ? i heard that helps.
Parking and Dura coat wouldn't be the era correct finish for all of them.
Dura coat says you can bake it ,but they say it is better as a slow cure.
A 100 degree storage building or a garage works wonders though.
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well i am proud of the builds.....
but this is actually about the cold bluing end, and ive got a tutorial on beltfedshooters.com on how to get a cold blue finish to look like this.
for those of us who dont have the traditional hot blue set up: it can be done and look good.
but this is actually about the cold bluing end, and ive got a tutorial on beltfedshooters.com on how to get a cold blue finish to look like this.
for those of us who dont have the traditional hot blue set up: it can be done and look good.
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486 Posts
Sdk-
Is that one of the older dp28 kits were the shroud wasn't cut through? I thought about ordering one off these from weaponeer to give the RPD some company but it seems they demilled these pretty hard. Is someone selling a receiver for these or did you weld the demilled pieces together? If you welded, what kind of jig did you use to allign the receiver pieces? How did you modify the fcg for semi-auto operation. Lastly, how do you make this 922r complient?
Thanks for answering all my questions,
Blake
Is that one of the older dp28 kits were the shroud wasn't cut through? I thought about ordering one off these from weaponeer to give the RPD some company but it seems they demilled these pretty hard. Is someone selling a receiver for these or did you weld the demilled pieces together? If you welded, what kind of jig did you use to allign the receiver pieces? How did you modify the fcg for semi-auto operation. Lastly, how do you make this 922r complient?
Thanks for answering all my questions,
Blake
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2,141 Posts
blake,
you will want to get one of the demills from Alleghany as they have the good front stub...
mine was a weaponeer kit and yes the demill was "hard"... but it was a good deal at the time.
i stumbled across some good parts and found a good front stub to weld up, got a full front shroud at Omega...
used a spare bolt carrier & lower for the jig set up... got them with the good stub & then angle iron and c clamps.
used the denial pin set up & lower rails welded up in the receiver, which you want to make sure you do... before you do any rewelding that part is very important in keeping everyone off your ass.
FCG is not finished.
922r compliant is not too tough on this, if you make the FCG parts then there isnt 10 parts left in the gun to count...
but we should probably move this to a different thread if you want to go into anymore detail.
back to topic: the instant bluing can look great with the right work, but its not as "thick" as hot bluing.
you will want to get one of the demills from Alleghany as they have the good front stub...
mine was a weaponeer kit and yes the demill was "hard"... but it was a good deal at the time.
i stumbled across some good parts and found a good front stub to weld up, got a full front shroud at Omega...
used a spare bolt carrier & lower for the jig set up... got them with the good stub & then angle iron and c clamps.
used the denial pin set up & lower rails welded up in the receiver, which you want to make sure you do... before you do any rewelding that part is very important in keeping everyone off your ass.
FCG is not finished.
922r compliant is not too tough on this, if you make the FCG parts then there isnt 10 parts left in the gun to count...
but we should probably move this to a different thread if you want to go into anymore detail.
back to topic: the instant bluing can look great with the right work, but its not as "thick" as hot bluing.
Im going to go look at your Tut over there Duti , I used Dura coat on that S&W because it was all i had.
A lot of these pistols have hit the market ,i cant remember the model# because it isnt on the gun ,but they are in 44Spl ,and 38 Spl ,with a 4 inch barrel.
They are an ,N , Frame ,and are in excellent shape except the finish.
Guys are picking them up for $120.00 ,and i am going to try your cold blue ideas on one and see how it does.
A lot of these pistols have hit the market ,i cant remember the model# because it isnt on the gun ,but they are in 44Spl ,and 38 Spl ,with a 4 inch barrel.
They are an ,N , Frame ,and are in excellent shape except the finish.
Guys are picking them up for $120.00 ,and i am going to try your cold blue ideas on one and see how it does.
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