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Part One Safety Bar placement

Okay according to the liberatorcrew website the position of the hole for the safety bar rivet is 3 3/4 inches from the front of the receiver and 1 7/16 inches up from the bottom. Now I noticed that there is a hole on the LSP that is in the same position Photo below.




I matched my RSP to this hole on the LSP and found this measurement to be pretty dead on... The reason for this hole on the LSP I do not know maybe to buck this rivet or tighten it up over the years I can only assume. Now for those people that have already built there 1919 and want to add a safety bar and you have this LSP hole it should be no problem to get a tool through the hole and add this feature.

Below is a picture of the safety bar installed in both the up and down position. Now although it does not look like it is all the way up the hook on the safety bar catches the bolt charging handle enough not to allow it to run forward. I don't believe that the safety was designed to fully hook around the bolt charging handle because the wear on mine is on the upper section of the hook. In this position it will not run forward under the pressure of the spring. I think they did this so the gun could be ready to fire instead of having to unhook it. So merely a push down on the safety bar runs the extracted round from the belt in safe position into battery.



Here is the link to the original information I found on placement:

http://www.liberatorcrew.com/1919_Parts/SafetyBar.htm
 

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Okay thats easy enough, my gun isnt together yet so the addition will be simple, just need to make a rivet for that thing now
 

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kali, is the SB hole in the LSP threaded?
 

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Nope

Nope no threaded holes in the LSP and when I installed the SB on the RSP I did not thread that side either. I just made a plain rivet for it. You'll see on Sunday. I really like being able to hold the bolt back without using a spare catridge. I guess that safety bar does do some good it's easy to lock the spring into the back of the bolt and its nice when you release the bolt and it snaps forward on the first round. Of course I haven't tried it any other way yet... Does anyone else know if that hole in the LSP was used for anything else? One of these days I'll post some better pictures for dimensioning without the RSP reparked for clarity.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I think I might put one on my next build.
 

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You know

You know I like it like everyone says its not really necessary but what the hay 90% of the people out there don't have them and since liberator crew did all the hard work (research) might as well throw one on... It was easy installing it on the RSP when installing the pintle pads however when you go to pound the trunion rivets I took a pound body hammer set it on top of the trunny rivet closets to the safety bar so when I hit it I wasn't so close to the safety bar rivet. I need to take some more pictures and post them. Just been to busy with freight coming in and going back out... Are you going to make your rivet lobo? You got a mill right or at least access to one...
 

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Safety Bar

I have never installed the Safety Bar on any of my guns, but I bought the screws on the group buy several months ago and plan to install the Safety Bar on my two 1919A4s and not on the 1919 Water Cooled. If you ever notice on most of the photos of WWII 1919A4 guns, the Safety Bar is present. I guess most of them were installed at assembly.

It certainly looks like an "add on" part but may make it look authentic for WWII impressions.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
No I don't have the rivet, but I'm sure I can come up with something. I might thread the hole and use a screw with a shoulder so I can remove it if I want...not authentic, but who cares.
 

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I might be

I might be able to conjure up an extra dremeled one if you so desire ;) ;) nod nod they take a little time to make but has worked well so far. I bought a bag of rivets and I'm gonna get to doing the last 19 or so and keep a couple extra for myself, but after that I'm done unless I can get a machinest to make them...

When I got the safety bar in my kit I was like what in the hell does this go to it doesn't show it in my USMC manual... Then it was a matter of well it came with it I guess it belongs on it kinda like those last nuts and bolts you have left over from working on a car. If I got left overs I gotta tear down and rebuild till I get it right.:rolleyes: Now I don't have to worry about looking for a spent cartridge and picking up that flaming hot one you know the one... and I don't have to worry about my RSO's crying about keeping my bolt open makes my life easier.

I would have done the screw in one like you Abwehr but I was really confident that I wanted it permanently attached and the info that the Liberator crew posted on there website was dead on. I hope the links or pics to that info are still up as they deleted my myspace account(<---Damn commies). The rivet I made from a stock rivet probibly wasn't as low profiled as the original but it was close enough... there are always slight variations and I don't know of any originals to closely study. I would make one suggestion for the screw in ones guys even though you may coat them in threadlock make a small divot or two on the inside of the RSP to stake that screw in like that bottom plate screw... It never hurts... I'll repost the info if it went down with my myspace account. I'll have to find Lobo's post on posting pictures and follow that I guess.

Lobo let me know if you have the need for a couple of them and I'll get to gettin some done. Its the least I can do for all the help and support you've given to us newbies with all the info posted on the how to.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thx for the rivet offer Kali, I think I'll go the screw route...not as pretty, but then again neither am I ;).
 

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Kali Komrade said:
I matched my RSP to this hole on the LSP and found this measurement to be pretty dead on... The reason for this hole on the LSP I do not know maybe to buck this rivet or tighten it up over the years I can only assume.

From what I have read It is beleived that the hole in the LSP is for headspacing.
 

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Just one comment. For item 30, the .30 cal front and rear cartridge stops may be installed prior to assembling the receiver parts just like the pintle pads. Some people may find that easier others may not.

Warning! If this is done the trunion must be inserted into the receiver side plates prior to any rivets being installed in the bottom or top plate as the front cartridge stop will not allow the trunion to slide in from the bottom or top of the recoever side plates. I know most people would do this anyway but just thought I would throw it in.
 

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iTEM #4 PINDLE PAD

On my RSP I hAVENT GOT THE 9/16TH Pindle hole, Correct me if I'm Wrong, Is it OK TO dRILL THE HOLE PUT A 9/16TH bOLT TO STEADY THE Pad for the12 & 8 o'clock rivet holes? And when i smash the rivets what is used for the backing to hold the Rivet?:)Thanks !!!
 

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On my RSP I hAVENT GOT THE 9/16TH Pindle hole, Correct me if I'm Wrong, Is it OK TO dRILL THE HOLE PUT A 9/16TH bOLT TO STEADY THE Pad for the12 & 8 o'clock rivet holes? And when i smash the rivets what is used for the backing to hold the Rivet?:)Thanks !!!
I don't know what plate you are using, but some have the pintle hole undersized, like 1/2". When that is the case, I like to install the pintle pad first, and center it around the existing hole, then drill out the hole after. I actually use a 35/64 drill (undersized) then use a 9/16 reamer after the box is assembled, but that's extra tooling that you don't need if you are building just one gun.

There is certainly nothing wrong with drilling your pintle hole first, then doing as you describe to locate the pad. I use a 55 pound anvil to lay the plate on and hand pound the pad rivets with a sledge. Go slowly and you can cinch up the pad lightly and check your alignment before hammering the rivets all the way. You just need a flat steel surface, something that will back up the flat head of the rivet on the inside of the plate. If done carefully, there should be little clean up required inside. Just make sure that the rivet heads are flush there, as the trunnion mates to that surface. A few careful strokes with a flat file will do for cleanup if needed.
 

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Pindle

The RSP IS A SAGANAW the LSP Hole is 9/16 I guess I'm On the right Track. Corect me if I'm wrong, Thanks for the advice!
 
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