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I know this is a very basic question, but the 1919a4 is a different beast than what I am used to. I usually use gun scrubber and Rem Oil for caring for my firearms. What do people here recommend, and are there any tips for properly and efficiently cleaning and lubricating the 1919a4.
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I use motor oil an all moving parts for lube and it works well.
 

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ive just used some good ol' 10w30 in a oil pump can to lube her up and has worked well so far.

Cleaning the barrel i use hot water first then a blast of clp (i shoot corrosive) then follow that with the normal regiment of hoppes no.9 brushed and patches, then oil it up. with the main body i use break free powder blast then CLP and wipe it down.

may not be the best way, just the way i have been doing it.

GR
 

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clean and lube!

I blast out the barrel with either clorinated brake cleaner or simple green when shooting corrosive. I have found that Lubriplate grease makes everything slick and keeps wear to a minimum. This is the same grease used in the M1 garand issued in WWII.To protect the entire gun I use Kroil oil I really coat up the sear to firing pin and trigger contact area with the Lubriplate. Any place that the park is worn or a moving part gets a wiping. Runs like a scalded cat with the crank:D
 

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Kroil for gun lube? :confused:
 

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Kroil and Lubriplate

I blast out the barrel with either clorinated brake cleaner or simple green when shooting corrosive. I have found that Lubriplate grease makes everything slick and keeps wear to a minimum. This is the same grease used in the M1 garand issued in WWII.To protect the entire gun I use Kroil oil I really coat up the sear to firing pin and trigger contact area with the Lubriplate. Any place that the park is worn or a moving part gets a wiping. Runs like a scalded cat with the crank:D
First, I don't shoot corrosive ammo.

The only products I use for cleaning are Hogwash, Kroil liquid and Silikroil spray. They, in my experience are the most efficent. Hogwash is a choke cleaner containing ketones, methanol and alcohol, keep it away from plastics!. Silikroil is just like Kroil but with a little silicon mixed in. Kroil is a super penetrating oil, which will remove copper fouling, carbon, and damn near anything else.

For lubrication, Lubriplate 105, it's a low viscosity engine assembly calicum based grease, for the high friction areas a $5 tube will last a very long time especially if you apply it with a pipe cleaner, you don't need it running all over the place to lubricate.

Microil, another Kano Labs product for lighter duty lube. Microil, a high quality instrament oil is a little pricey, but a quart can is a good investment applied with small oiler it will also last a long time.

Kano Labs produces a wide variety of industrial solvents and lubricants which you buy direct. Midway usa used to sell some of Kano's products.

To each their own, this works for me.
 

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Simply Green to clean,. Break Free to lube. Works great! :D
 

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LOL... I use brake cleaner (the cheaper the better!) and then douse liberally with CLP when storing. When the beast comes out, it's used motor oil! Usually 30wt, but occasionally I get a little 5w20 in it from the truck.
 

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I've been using Kroil for years with restoration of 50+ year old vehicles and parts. I don't know about using it in a browning....
 

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Hey Guys,
I have always used Kroil in bores to break up extra heavy fouling and used for lube sometimes.
Also run light patches of Kroil down the barrel as a rust preventive for long term storage. Kroil goes where I go... buy it by the gallon.
 

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anybody use eezox, it comes in a green can works good on all my weapons. i cleaned a smle about a year ago and its still oily to the touch. if i dont use that i use rem oil cant go wrong there probably the best oil you can get and its pretty cheap.
 
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