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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've cleaned the muzzle end of the barrel by wire brush and scaler, looks like new. Inside of the muzzle booster is kind of hard to reach, does this nasty stuff have any solvent enemy's!
 

· I wanna go shooting NOW!
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double tap
 

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1-1/4" ball nose high speed end mill here. put a glove on. a few spins. carbon gone! :)
 

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My fix

The M6 booster/flashider and the one piece booster are difficult to remove without boogering up the finish even with the bearing wrench. especially the M6 all it has is a couple of flats to put a wrench on. There is a "carbon removing tool" in the TM for this purpose, but you have to remove the flashider to use it.

I took a 4 foot long 1/4 in rod and cut 1/4-20 threads on one end, got a 3/4 in wire brush with a 1/4 in shaft cut 1/4-20 threads on the shaft connected them with a coupling nut.

Remove the back plate, bolt, lock frame and barrel/extension, which you have to do anyway to clean the muzzle end of the barrel, place the muzzle on a rag on the floor chuck the rod and brush in a cordless drill spray the inside of the booster with Kroil , or whatever you use stick the brush/rod thru the back of the reciever box and down the barrel casing, and against the booster, turn on the drill and there you go. Wrap a small piece of rag on the brush to finish cleaning.
 

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Darn booster cones

There is no such thing as easy. That's why I designed a fabricated my own three piece booster cone. It comes apart easily and allows better access. I use a sturdy dental pick. Once you get the process started it pops the very hard cabon-copper deposits out pretty well. Takes some elbow greese though.
 

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Once you have it clean, soak the booster in Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter. Keeps the carbon from getting a good grip next time out. I've used this on a fully crudded up booster to some degree of success. It'll soften the carbon quite a bit. More than one shot was necessary. Followed up with a wire brush from Sears mounted on a drill with the booster chucked into a leather wrapped vise.
 

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tellin ya, a 1-1/4" ball nose end mill. 10 seconds and you're done. :D
 

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lol Maico. got no mill so it's by hand for me. HEAVY leather glove and a 6 flute it is. clean as new with a couple twists!
 

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I'll be sure to remember that if we ever shake hands :D
It took me a lot longer, but we had over 1000 rounds of tracer shot through it and the build up wasn't the usual black carbon, had a blue color, kinda on the pretty side.
 

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I put a layer of grease on my 1919, Vickers, Maxim, MG34, and MG42 nose cone buffer areas before going to the range. When I get home most of the carbon sticks to the grease.

A WW2 vet told me about this little trick and I have used it ever since. It makes cleaning that area of the gun much easier.

JMHO
Cain
 

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maico, the blue/green is normal for a booster that hasn't been cleaned and left to air. tracer or not.
no grease in the booster for me mp40! unless i cook some bacon on it! :)
all i know is the end mill i have and only use as a booster cleaner, is the easiest i've come across. no lube, and slices right through any amount of carbon. then simply green with all the other parts, break free to lube.
back to linking...

almost D-Day! :D
 
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