Conflicting info Very confused.

I am beginning to feel like a broken record here. This is the last time I am going to answer this so listen up folks. If you are not going to believe me then fine. Oxinate 7 is what oow's blued gun were done with. Oxinate 7 at 292 deg. will not hurt the gun, its brass, its solder, or its feelings. The brass on the gun will however hurt the salts, so you better count on averaging one 5 gallon bucket of salts per gun. My tank holds 2 buckets and I can do 2 guns before the salts play out.
The endcaps are soldered on with a lead/tin solder. I know this because I have personally removed the endcaps and raised dents from every one I have built before I blued it. When finished I re assembled, and resoldered with the same stuff.
Finally the brass can be polished before, after, or not at all.
If you unsolder endcaps and resolder them, check them for leaks before you blue the gun. This is not a bad idea anyway. The best advice I can give is jump in. Remember the metal prep determines the outcome of the finished gun, more than the type of blue used. Just a general observation though is if the blue process you choose doesnt involve at least some heat, it is not going to be as durable.

This is my full auto 28.

This is it before i blued it

This is an endcap off of the water jacket.

this is a bastardized beater gun with a 28 waterjacket on an izzy backend set up as a 1917a1 for shooting up a stash of crappy yugo ammo.


This is two of my builds side by side. The 28 with the red water plugs has a much higher degree of polish, especially on the sideplates, but the blueing process was identical.


And finally one more pic of my 28 just because I like it.



There are other processes that will work on the 28. These are the processes I used and these are the results. The guns can be finished anyway you please and that is the owners choice. Here is the proof in the meathods I have been describing for quite a while.