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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever try cerakoting? Everything you read seems to make it sound like best left to "trained professionals." But if you've already got blast cabinet/oven, only things left should be a small HVLP gun and basic spray technique. What am I missing?
 

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Cerakote is easy to do. I used to do both Cerakote and Duracoat when I was retail gunsmithing.

Cerakote has a new air dry formula which works very well. It is much more toxic than the bake-on version, and requires a respirator to use. You need a good HVLP gun to apply and a good well ventilated space.

Duracoat is much easier, can be done with a simple airbrush.

Both leave good finishes, I think Cerakote is a bit more durable, but it takes more prep and equipment.
 

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I've done Gun-Kote, which is similar. Clean parts - airbrush on - bake. Done. Letting it dry a couple days stinks up the house a little less during baking.

PICT0102.jpg PICT0104.jpg

I've read bad reviews of the various products in spray cans; it seems they clog up rather badly. MSG
 

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I'll be watching this thread closely. I'd like to try it too. Even have the colors picked out.:)
It does seem awfully labor intensive for the prep. Need to use their proprietary masking too??
 

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I never had trouble with masking things off with just regular painter's tape, your mileage may vary. It is important to remove the tape as soon as you are done painting though, paint will leech underneath the tape (just as the tape's directions say). If you want the cool camo templates that are offered, I'd use those, simply because the pattern is already cut and easy. I like flowing designs and less "cut" lines when I do camo jobs, so I just used a smaller airbrush with the Duracoat for those jobs.

Prep.. It's like painting anything really. The better your base, and the cleaner you get it, the better it looks. You want good gloves that won't rip halfway through a job. A good cleaner to clean all the parts. Denatured alcohol works really good because it doesn't leave a residue (especially if you use a heat gun to get it to vapor off). Acetone also seems to work good (If you're Duracoating, acetone dissolves the mixed paint, so you don't have to buy the expensive thinner; lacquer thinner or mineral spirits do NOT dissolve Duracoat and will cause streamers that clog everything)

Acetone is what you want to use with Cerakote. Don't try to cheap with fingernail polish remover. Get the good stuff. Follow the directions with the cerakote. It pays off to be precise when measuring out how much lacquer or hardener.

If you don't have the gear to do all the sandblasting and a GOOD (automotive quality) paint gun, Cerakote is kind of expensive to start off with. You almost have to sandblast your substrate to get the right surface for this stuff. It is also very easy to get it on too thick.

Duracoat offers some good product-the shake and spray kit (Brownells has them) is good for a small project like a pistol to start off with. Or if you have your old model airplane airbrush with the CO2 can adapter, Duracoat is a good option for that type of tooling. Also you can just rough up the finish with 320 or 400 grit and duracoat will stick quite well, without media blasting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. Did some more poking around today and like most coatings, prep and developing a little experience seem to be the big things. Probably not cost effective if you have to start from scratch with equipment but I believe all I need at this point is a small hvlp gun. And time of course. Would still like to hear from others with DIY experience.
 

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Local guy around here cerakote'd the slide on my pistol, $50 out the door. I just did it to see how well the stuff held up. So far, no complaints... Other than the controls are tighter than I remember. ;)
 

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Have used dura coat before and love it !!!
Like anything the prep is the main thing
(In the collision industry)
For what it's worth
Done several a-rs some pistols seems to stick good to plastic also!
Even did my best friends M/C added there UV hardner 2 1/2 years ago held up really well!!!
 

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Have used dura coat before and love it !!!
Like anything the prep is the main thing
(In the collision industry)
For what it's worth
Done several a-rs some pistols seems to stick good to plastic also!
Even did my best friends M/C added there UV hardner 2 1/2 years ago held up really well!!!
Got any pics of the bike completed? It looks great!!! :thumbup:
CaptMax
 

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That is completed!!!!!!
Not much to it!!!!!! Ol shovel!!!!!
Not much for long hauls!!!!!

Back to the dura coat I mite add he has rode plenty of lady's on the fender still looks as good as the day we painted it!!!!!
I'll try to get some better pics of it!!!!!
 

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Waorani

I have a harbor freight blasting cabinet and blasted a series 80 type 1911, used a Testors airbrush that was powered by a aerosol can, I got for modelling years ago at Hobby lobby and it did a great job. I sat in my wheelchair and sprayed it then hung it in the kitchen oven,,,baked it ,,,the anount of hardener varies the finish, from a matte or semi gloss to glossy.. easy to do.



Crimson Trace green laser grips here..



Some other grips on it..



Did it on a budget... lolsss

CooT
 

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Hey there Coot! Good to hear from you again. Is that Duracoat or Ceracote?? Looks good.:)
 

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I used Cerakote,.. Rugs...

Good to see youse is still kickin',.. Cuz....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have a harbor freight blasting cabinet and blasted a series 80 type 1911, used a Testors airbrush that was powered by a aerosol can, I got for modelling years ago at Hobby lobby and it did a great job. I sat in my wheelchair and sprayed it then hung it in the kitchen oven,,,baked it ,,,the anount of hardener varies the finish, from a matte or semi gloss to glossy.. easy to do.
CooT
Thanks, that's the kind of info I was looking for. I've done most of the other coatings in the past but never cerakote. I've read about the amount of hardener being critical but then I've seen where folks mixed based on weight (vs. volume per instructions) and it still turned out good.
 

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I used Cerakote,.. Rugs...

Good to see youse is still kickin',.. Cuz....
You too, bud! :)

I think I'm going to try this with my carry 1911. The 'stainless steel' gets rust every summer from some fat guy sweating all over it. Only so many pencil erasers around the house now. :tongue:
 
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