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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of years ago I picked up a super clean Garand,but it had a blonde birch stock,pretty but it just didn't look right,so one night after looking at it for a couple months I broke it down and stained the wood with Fiebing's leather dye,it came out beautiful,still not a proper walnut but better then the blonde.
When I got this gun it shot great, but recently when I pulled it out of the safe and took it to the range it wouldn't feed properly,at first I thought it was the parkerized clips,but I took a couple of vintage clips and tried them and the same thing happened,so today I took my other Garand with me and tried the gritty clips in it and they ran fine,so when I got home I went online and looked up feeding problems and started down the list,I tried the tilt test the other day but not with the lower stock in place,something I read tonight said to do the tilt test with it on, sure enough the op rod was rubbing on the lower stock,it was hitting on the beveled section on the inside,I used a magic marker to blacken the op rod and ran it back and forth a couple time then scraped the stock down carefully,so now the op rod moves freely,plus I gave it a good cleaning and greasing, so tomorrow I run back out and try it again.
Are these birch stocks prone to warping or swelling? I've had my walnut stocked gun in the same safe for over 20 years and it has never had this problem! Is there some way to seal the birch so it doesn't swell?
If I had the extra money I would replace it with proper walnut but it's just a shooter and it doesn't look that bad.
 

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All I know is birch stocks are stronger than walnut when it comes to M14 stocks. Hope that helps.
CaptMax
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I took it back to the range this afternoon and it is better,sometimes I went though a full clip with no problems,sometime is only missed a couple of times,I think I'll pull the recoil spring from my other gun since I know it feeds everything.
 

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47lincsled, thanks for posting, old birch can, and does warp, it is not sealed, and if moisture gets to it.

Hope this help some. Jim.









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I took it back to the range this afternoon and it is better,sometimes I went though a full clip with no problems,sometime is only missed a couple of times,I think I'll pull the recoil spring from my other gun since I know it feeds everything.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Have a few with birch wood never a problem, how is removing action does it bind? Might need to do like when bedding an old black powder, soot the action then install/remove look for black binding marks. Quick sealer I use on military stuff BLO mixed with mineral spirits one coat let sit hour or so wipe dry, let cure couple days then repeat just Blo wet on let sit then wipe off and dry, don’t put on an walk away to dry always wipe excess before letting dry. Be careful with towels/rags after they can spontaneously combust so dispose carefully, when done do a rub down 3 equal parts mixed BLO Beas wax and turpentine or gets some Toms1/3 mix works great. Let me know if you need any help along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The action doesn't seem too tight in the stock,I haven't pulled it down yet tonight to check for rub marks but I could see the op rod was still rubbing on the beveled area of the stock,but from what I have read if it doesn't stop the tilt test then a little bit of contact there is desired.
I also dug through my clips today and found some BRW marked ones which I am going to try,although all of them worked in my other Garand I've read that some guns are just particular about clips.
After I get it functioning correctly I had planned on oiling it again,I don't think I oiled the inside of the stock.
 

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Garands are fickle. Measure the springs, gauge the parts..........but the ONE part everyone overlooks is the clip latch spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
From what I have read elsewhere the stock is probably Danish.
What should I look for on the clip latch spring? I have seen anything about it on all the stuff I have read lately.
 

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The nasty clip latch spring can cause premature ejection of rounds and en-bloc if worn, so can other parts. If memory serves me, the free length should be more than .500, they are cheap doesn’t hurt to just change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So this afternoon I took a select handful of BRW clip and some of the new AEC clips. The AEC clips have been smoothed out inside by using a leather buffing wheel in a dremel.
I started out with a BRW clip and it fed 7 of the 8 rounds,the next clip wouldn't feed but the first round,so I took the lower stock off both gun and swapped them,smae thing,so I remove the gas system completely from both guns and swapped them,same thing, and the good gun still shot the AEC clips!
I don't know where to go now,what other parts are critical in feeding?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I went through and did the whole inspection listed in that article,I found a couple small burrs which I stoned off and then cleaned and lubed it really heavy, I went back out to the range this afternoon and put 5 old clips through it without a problem! I tried one of the new AEC clips and only had one failure to feed. I'm going to have to dig through my collection of clips and save the old ones for this gun.
Thanks for all the help!
 
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