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Discussion Starter #1
Had an unusual problem with the gun yesterday. burned through several hundred rounds of greek and POF ammo, then gun would not fire, then fire singles, then not at all. changed bolt, loosened headspace, adjusted timing. nothing but occasional light primer strikes, some lighter than others, sometimes sear would not release.
Noticed the trigger bar has lots of side to side slop, didn't have a spare to swap out.
The gun has many thousands of rounds through it.
Any ideas would be welcome. BP
 

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What caliber, whose ammo and then get a new firing pin assembly. If it also has tons of rounds through it, check for built up brass fragments and sludge inside the bolts firing pin channel. Could be you are trying to mash through some gunk softening up the pin strike.
 

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or just needs MORE OIL!!!!!

50/50 wd40 and straight 50 weight racing oil in a squirt bottle says grandpa machine gun (PJ Heck / Heckinohio) it makes all the guns run. and if you take a swig, itd give you the runs too!

or what shattered says.
 

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Strip the Bolt and verify that the coil spring inside the Firing Pin hasn't failed.(broke). Replace if you have a spare. Good time to replace with the Heavy Duty Firing Pin Spring Kit sold by a member on the board here. Thoroughly clean and reassemble.

TiredIron
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the good info. Did try a different bolt without any luck, but it probably has a tired firing pin spring.
Who makes the heavy duty springs?
BP
 

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Zap
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Joined Feb 17, 2007
46 Posts
Discussion Starter • #1 Mar 18, 2017
My Firing Pin Spring kits come with a new Chromium steel spring, and a new spring retainer.
I sell them for $5.00 each, and give free shipping if you buy 5 or more.
The firing pin spring has the right amount of coils and closed ends. I added additional spring tension
for those that have 54R guns and are using hard primer foreign ammo.
I have seen longer springs that go into coil bind with the firing pin cocked. This will wear out a spring
in no time. My springs are the right length and will never go into coil bind.
As for the retaining pin, I went to McMasters and got Mil Spec harden steel pins. I have to grind 0.015"
off one end so there is no drag of the firing pin in the bolt when assembled. The grinding is done with a tool
makers grinder. I use CBN or diamond grinding wheels and coolant so the ends are truly flat and the coolant
keeps the pins from overheating and loosing there temper.
The kits have been tested in every know configuration of the calibers that 1919's can be built in.
22 rim fire is the exception.
Probably the best $5.00 that you can spend on your 1919's.
My guarantee is if it doesn't work I will replace the kit or refund your money. (I have yet to use this)

Any other questions?

FYI,,, Recoil springs are in the works and being tested at this time.


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Custom Metal Works
Mesquite, Texas.
The Firing Pin Kit Guy.
 

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Zap
Registered

Joined Feb 17, 2007
46 Posts
Discussion Starter • #1 Mar 18, 2017
My Firing Pin Spring kits come with a new Chromium steel spring, and a new spring retainer.
I sell them for $5.00 each, and give free shipping if you buy 5 or more.
The firing pin spring has the right amount of coils and closed ends. I added additional spring tension
for those that have 54R guns and are using hard primer foreign ammo.
I have seen longer springs that go into coil bind with the firing pin cocked. This will wear out a spring
in no time. My springs are the right length and will never go into coil bind.
As for the retaining pin, I went to McMasters and got Mil Spec harden steel pins. I have to grind 0.015"
off one end so there is no drag of the firing pin in the bolt when assembled. The grinding is done with a tool
makers grinder. I use CBN or diamond grinding wheels and coolant so the ends are truly flat and the coolant
keeps the pins from overheating and loosing there temper.
The kits have been tested in every know configuration of the calibers that 1919's can be built in.
22 rim fire is the exception.
Probably the best $5.00 that you can spend on your 1919's.
My guarantee is if it doesn't work I will replace the kit or refund your money. (I have yet to use this)

Any other questions?

FYI,,, Recoil springs are in the works and being tested at this time.


Show Full Signature
[email protected]
Custom Metal Works
Mesquite, Texas.
The Firing Pin Kit Guy.
I have bought 10 of these kits fast service and work great.
 

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I would highly recommend getting the spring kits from Ravenna Armory Chris is very professional and great to deal with, not to mention you wont get Zapped

A few years ago ZAPP screwed me over big time, I had him build one of my kits and he messed it up badly, he also traded my like new parts, barrel and left me with all junk unserviceable parts, he has a very BAD reputation here in Dallas and is known for screwing people.
I ended up sending it to John McGuire and he reworked my entire A4
Not trying to be a ass just wanted to let others know how my dealings with ZAPP went,
 

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Unless I’m mistaken, Sarco still has OEM firing spring assemblies available. Some years ago, I rooted through his A4 boxes and dug out damn near a dozen A4’s in small parts...almost a fiddy cal can chock full all sorts a small parts. I left a hell of a lot of parts behind, Seriously...who needs more than a dozen complete extractor assemblies and dozens of parts that make up complete extractor assemblies. Dave had just about everything for the A4 shooter (blatant ripoff of Larry Potterfield).
 

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I wanted to mention that my experience with WD-40 has been bad on firearms.
It dries into a hard shellac, gums up mechanism's and is hard to clean off once it has dried.
I have run across it numerous times on used handguns and long guns, machine guns in the Army.
For years I wasn't sure of the cause of the shiny hard film I would have to remove, then a local gunsmith showed me how much work he gathered "fixing" guns that the owners hosed down with WD-40.
I stopped buying it years ago and replaced with other products.
CRC spray is one the DoD introduced me to that seems effective.
I have "PL Special" oil that I have been using on main guns, machine guns and firearms since the mid 1980's (also a DoD weapons lube)

Richard
 

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I wanted to mention that my experience with WD-40 has been bad on firearms.
It dries into a hard shellac, gums up mechanism's and is hard to clean off once it has dried.
I have run across it numerous times on used handguns and long guns, machine guns in the Army.
For years I wasn't sure of the cause of the shiny hard film I would have to remove, then a local gunsmith showed me how much work he gathered "fixing" guns that the owners hosed down with WD-40.
I stopped buying it years ago and replaced with other products.
CRC spray is one the DoD introduced me to that seems effective.
I have "PL Special" oil that I have been using on main guns, machine guns and firearms since the mid 1980's (also a DoD weapons lube)

Richard
Richard you are right WD40 should not be used on firearms. I use Gibbs it is great for guns and many other uses, I used to use Kroil but switched to Gibbs about 5 years ago.
 
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