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Discussion Starter #1
Yeah I knew that would turn some heads.

Im currently garage/bubba/retro engineering a KGKT co-ax into a LMG configuration. Most of my work is trial and error. Ive filed here and sanded there, so not everything fits as tight as Id like. Do you guys have preferred way to fit plastic parts to metal components? Epoxy is usually my go-to, but over just a few short years, it seems to get yellow and brittle.

Fiberglass kits from parts stores, CONS; Long cure time, messy, the fibers fray when sanded. PROS- Durable
JB weld- CONS: Not real easy to form, gets brittle when dried. PROS- Easy to sand and shape, durable
Bondo:CONS: Not real strong as a bonding agent, easily cracks. PROS- easiest to work with

Any other suggestions?
 

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I used to build fiberglass boats and if your glasswork is showing strings... it wasn't finished correctly ..I don't know what a KGKT is or looks like...but it sounds like you need more resin and a bubble roller to remove all the air and tighten the glass work up, do it in layers if it needs to be thick and sand between layers then you can grind and sand to shape and then mix up some gelcoat to your favorite color and paint it,

Pictures are helpful too.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I agree .. I have no idea what your talking about...What is a KGKT ?
The KGKT is a co-ax version of the SG43 series of heavy machine gun. The gun comes with no grips or sights and Im trying to rough fit a stock and pistol grip. Ive millled away some of the plastic from an AK buttstock but the fit is a little loose and I want to use some kind of compound to mold the plastic to fit a little better to the base metal.
 

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Brownell's AcraGlass gel kit, release agent in an aerosol can, and brown or black dye as fits your needs. Pick up a small chunk of modeling clay online or from a local craft store.

Use the clay to fill any areas of the weapon that would allow the gel to "turn a corner" and lock the stock in place. Spray any part of the weapon that may come in contact with the get with release agent, including the clay. Paint the liquid release agent that comes in the gel kit on those parts of the stock that may come in contact with excess gel being careful to not get any on the parts of the stock you want to build up. Rough up the surfaces of the stock you want to build up with a fine file or red Scotchbrite pad. Add about 20% more mixed gel to those parts of the stock than you think you will need, but don't go hog wild. Mate the stock and weapon in a fashion that allows them to sit without moving for at least 12 hours. Carefully and gently remove sprue with a wooden or plastic tool as soon as the parts are mated. Don't try for perfection, just get the big globs.

Follow the instructions for cure time, then tap the stock away from the weapon with a plastic hammer - gently.

More and better instructions come with the kit but this will give you a general idea. If the stock is going to be under repeated heavy recoil pressure substitute Brownell's SteelBed kit for the AcraGlass.
 

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My gunsmith friend that used to work on AKs would "tighten up" warped or undersized bakelite or vintage polymer stocks and handguards using Devcon.


  1. Devcon 22045 is a two-part liquid that cures to a hardness that can be sanded and machined (cheap! buy locally because it expires quickly, under a year)
  2. Devcon 10110 is a steel putty (not cheap)
  3. Devcon 10610 is an aluminum-filled epoxy putty (really not cheap!)
Search YouTube for rifle pillar bedding and you'll find plenty of suggestions for various products that might be able to do what you're looking to do


I need to do something about a bakelite handguard on my Draco that rattles and needs to have material built up at the rear, I'll probably start with the Devcon 22045, build up, file and sand to fit, and if that doesn't work try the 10110.

HTH.
 
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