[realsnook]

Somehow I aquired a golf ball cannon, I was told to use friction primers for ignition?
Anyone know of a good source?
I have cannon fuse, I do not know anything about friction primers hope someone here could help with this?
I also was told to use two dixie cups as a wadd is this true..
Or is there better, I am using a dial rod as a pusher? new to cannon stuff so any info appreciated.
Thanks snook

 

[Sniper258]

I have a real cannon and cant find friction primers, never looked too hard though. I make quills and use a linstock for mine, just as fast and reliable

 

[realsnook]

What are quills?? I told you I am new to this!

 

[belt fed frog]

quill- a hollow tube filled with BP usually FFFFg
Linstock - a stick with a piece of matchlock cord i.e. potassium nitrate soaked and dried rope that burns slowly

i have seen friction ignitors avalible from two sources at around a buck a piece

but i use a Dixie gun works cannon cap lock it requires a musket nipple installed in the vent hole uses musket caps (the ones with flanges) and is lanyard pull ignition

 

[realsnook]

Great , Thanks for the definition I found a few pics pretty neat.
Dixie cannon works igniter be used on any cannon , that sounds like something I want a long pull cord be good , I thought of something like a 209 primer ,striking mechanism,
I don't know much about cannons just got this thing but I want to fire it.
I am not scared....A little ..lol

 

[belt fed frog]

snook did you get the tools with it ?
the barrel swab , the screw ? these are very important after firing you need to run the screw down the barrel to pull any reminats of the powder charge container (alum foil ) then wet swab the bore full lenght to extinguish any powder grains that may still be smoldering only then can you load a new foil powder pack pushed gentally in with the plain end of the swab pole followed by the golf ball nice and easy and always from the side (even when wet swabing) run your vent pick thru the nipple into the powder pack opening a hole for the caps fire to reach the powder then carefully prime with a cap lay the brass hammer into the rest position step way pick up the end of the lanyard and give it a sharp tug and BOOM

MOST IMPORTANT get and read carefully a manual of arms for BP cannons

here is an addy for you http://www.go2gbo.com/forums//index.php/board,88.0.html it is currently down it is greybeards cannon and mortar forum

 

[lovett155fa]

Friction Primers

The best friction primers that are available are from:

Phil Sieglein
5026 Mile Stretch Dr.
Holiday, FL 34690

The are 95 cents each and shipping (UPS) is $7.50 up to 100 ea. package.

I have used these for around twenty years. They are far safer than lint stock or "cannon fuze" ignition. This is also the "correct" way to fire a civil war field piece.

A few things to keep in mind with these; they should be kept in a dry place. If they get wet like any ammunition related item you are more likely to have mis-fires. Also, they do fire with a force much like an M-60 fire*******. In other words, don't hold one in your hand and pull the pin. It will not be a fun experience.

You will need a lanyard. Phil sells these but you can make one by simply getting a thin rope and attaching a small hook on one end. You put the friction primer into the vent. Hook the lanyard to the twisted wire loop that sticks out of the primer, pull tension on the lanyard and step back from the artillery piece, pull the lanyard in a smooth motion (use your whole body weight). The friction primer fires---sending a jet of flame into the shell chamber and your artillery pieces fires. The empty tube of the friction primer will fly up into the air and fall back around you. The tube is light so it will not hurt you but might startle you if your not expecting it. Also you don't want to do this with the gun under a roof or over hang (or inside an enclosed boat).

Also, with the preparation of the ammunition; pour your ounce or so of black powder into a thin plastic sandwich bag. Then wrap this with two layers of aluminum-foil. It will look a little like an aluminum cigar. This is to protect the charge from being pre-maturely fired. You will also need a vent pick. This can be an ice pick or anything that is about the same diameter as the vent. Push this pick into the vent after you have rammed the charge into the barrel. Then put the friction primer into the vent. This gives you a clear path to the now exposed black powder.

The US Park Service regulations for muzzle loading cannon fire would be a great thing to look over. They will spell out many of the same things I have stated and will give much more detail and a lot of good safety advice.

I hope this is helpful to you.

Ralph Lovett

www.lovettartillery.com

 

[realsnook]

I knew there would be a wealth of info here if I asked, Thank You
I will read more about this also. I only got the cannon no tools.
I have never had or fired a cannon before so this is all new to me.
Thank You Snook

 

[HuecoDoc]

Also, I think the touch hole should be occluded airtight with someone's thumb throughout the cleaning and loading operation. You can buy a thumsbstall for this. This preserves the low-oxygen atmosphere in the chamber and prevents anything from creeping up into the hole. Otherwise, water from swabbing could get up there and create a problem, or worse a smoldering peice of something can get up there and set off the powder early. I'm researching everything because I'm nervous, too, and I won't do it until I can do it right. I need a worm and swab. The Graybeard forum is the prime information source, with the N-SSA being second. "The More Complete Cannoneer" is a book out of print which is due for a new addition later this year.

 

[realsnook]

That my friend is a very nice cannon I will get pics of mine on here shortly...

 

[fal_762x51]

Beautiful cannon and I think you got that bamboo rug from Bed Bath and Beyond.

 

[HuecoDoc]

Sam's club. It is particularly attractive with a Mountain Howitzer on top, I think.

Beautiful cannon and I think you got that bamboo rug from Bed Bath and Beyond.