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I'm going to repost this because I would like some other board members to try it.
First – this is not mine. It is a compilation of discussions on three or four threads I read over the last several years. I’ve never tried to make any money off this because it is simply information given freely by several others. Will this work for you? I don’t know. It does work for me. One reason I am posting this is because I would like several other people to verify my results. There may or may not be something else that is influencing my results. Give this a try so we can all find out.
Here's a photo of the finish on my 1919a4.
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Here goes.
1. Degrease: Mineral spirits, White gas, boil in Simple Green or dish soap, sonic cleaner, whatever. I knocked off the heavy stuff with white gas and then boiled in dish soap and then clear water.
2. Sand blast: A few people use glass beads, I use sand media.
3. Pre-heat: Kitchen oven, approx. 180 F. I Park in a large steam table pan on a Coleman stove, and this helps me maintain temperature. Those of you with proper equipment can probably omit this step. If the heat reveals oil stains, I’ll spray these with brake cleaner.
4. Acid bath: Muriatic acid. It’s less than $6.00 a gallon at Lowe’s.
5. Rinse: I use hot, clear water. The heated water aids in controlling the Park tank temp.
6. Prepare Park solution: I use Dutch’s Ospho Parking solution and witches brew. He says one 32 oz bottle makes about four gallons (1 in 16). I’m using a stronger solution, but probably don’t need to. Dissolve three or four new (zinc) pennies (tribute to Abe) in approx. six ounces of Ospho before diluting with water. An equivalent amount of zinc from other sources (I’ve used electrical fittings) can be used. Add remaining Ospho to make desired amount of solution, heat to 190 F. Dissolve ½ TBS clean (remove oil), fine steel wool (essence of Brillo) in warm solution.
7. Park: Hang parts in 190 F solution for 12 to 15 minutes. Mine never stops bubbling.
8. Rinse: In hot water to stop reaction.
9. Dry: I start with a hair drier to remove all water droplets, and then hang in a low temp (170 F) oven.
10. Treat: I slather the parts with TC Bore Butter by hand. Just let the pores suck it up. I have also gotten similar results with Bag Balm, but have not tested this as much. It’s green.
Discussion:
I read numerous times that the green tint was caused by old Cosmoline and time. I’ve also read the weapons were already green during WWII. The Lanolin (wool oil) in old Cosmoline was also credited. Another member posted that old or dirty park solution was the cause. I don’t know what actually does it, but I tried several angles.
By Parking several test pieces first, and limiting quality control measures, I have the dirty Park solution thing down. Reusing the solution makes sure it’s dirty too.
Though I tried treating with several compounds (Old Cosmo, CLP, new motor oil, used motor oil, QuickSilver, grease, Bag Balm, Bore Butter, WD-40, etc), only the Bore Butter and Bag Balm produced a green finish. The Bag Balm does contain lanolin; I have no idea what’s in TC Bore Butter (though it is an all natural, food grade material).
The commercial Parking solutions may or may not work. Ospho also contains “wetting agents” and “extenders,” including chromium compounds, that may also affect the color.
Some steels (Pin stock, 4140 RSPs, also see the forward Cartridge stop in the photo) still come out dark gray.
As members post questions, I will amend the original post to clarify.
MSG
First – this is not mine. It is a compilation of discussions on three or four threads I read over the last several years. I’ve never tried to make any money off this because it is simply information given freely by several others. Will this work for you? I don’t know. It does work for me. One reason I am posting this is because I would like several other people to verify my results. There may or may not be something else that is influencing my results. Give this a try so we can all find out.
Here's a photo of the finish on my 1919a4.
Here goes.
1. Degrease: Mineral spirits, White gas, boil in Simple Green or dish soap, sonic cleaner, whatever. I knocked off the heavy stuff with white gas and then boiled in dish soap and then clear water.
2. Sand blast: A few people use glass beads, I use sand media.
3. Pre-heat: Kitchen oven, approx. 180 F. I Park in a large steam table pan on a Coleman stove, and this helps me maintain temperature. Those of you with proper equipment can probably omit this step. If the heat reveals oil stains, I’ll spray these with brake cleaner.
4. Acid bath: Muriatic acid. It’s less than $6.00 a gallon at Lowe’s.
5. Rinse: I use hot, clear water. The heated water aids in controlling the Park tank temp.
6. Prepare Park solution: I use Dutch’s Ospho Parking solution and witches brew. He says one 32 oz bottle makes about four gallons (1 in 16). I’m using a stronger solution, but probably don’t need to. Dissolve three or four new (zinc) pennies (tribute to Abe) in approx. six ounces of Ospho before diluting with water. An equivalent amount of zinc from other sources (I’ve used electrical fittings) can be used. Add remaining Ospho to make desired amount of solution, heat to 190 F. Dissolve ½ TBS clean (remove oil), fine steel wool (essence of Brillo) in warm solution.
7. Park: Hang parts in 190 F solution for 12 to 15 minutes. Mine never stops bubbling.
8. Rinse: In hot water to stop reaction.
9. Dry: I start with a hair drier to remove all water droplets, and then hang in a low temp (170 F) oven.
10. Treat: I slather the parts with TC Bore Butter by hand. Just let the pores suck it up. I have also gotten similar results with Bag Balm, but have not tested this as much. It’s green.
Discussion:
I read numerous times that the green tint was caused by old Cosmoline and time. I’ve also read the weapons were already green during WWII. The Lanolin (wool oil) in old Cosmoline was also credited. Another member posted that old or dirty park solution was the cause. I don’t know what actually does it, but I tried several angles.
By Parking several test pieces first, and limiting quality control measures, I have the dirty Park solution thing down. Reusing the solution makes sure it’s dirty too.
Though I tried treating with several compounds (Old Cosmo, CLP, new motor oil, used motor oil, QuickSilver, grease, Bag Balm, Bore Butter, WD-40, etc), only the Bore Butter and Bag Balm produced a green finish. The Bag Balm does contain lanolin; I have no idea what’s in TC Bore Butter (though it is an all natural, food grade material).
The commercial Parking solutions may or may not work. Ospho also contains “wetting agents” and “extenders,” including chromium compounds, that may also affect the color.
Some steels (Pin stock, 4140 RSPs, also see the forward Cartridge stop in the photo) still come out dark gray.
As members post questions, I will amend the original post to clarify.
MSG
