[jmorris]

I am new to 1919’s and have learned quite a bit from this site and the search function, but have a question. On the 1919 I have the back plate has a plunger and spring that resets the trigger. I note this as I have seen photos here of a different arrangement. I’m not looking for a 1.5# trigger pull but what should I do to better the +-20# gritty pull that I have and remain safe. What is normal? I don’t like to perform modifications that are not safe and/or non-reversible, thus the question. If photos would be helpful I can post a few, (let me know what part is of interest).

Thanks in advance for the help.
jm

 

[Dan @ Angola Armory]

There are several ways to spring a trigger to reset. I hope I can explain. First, and most popular are the piano wire style that wrap around the timing screw and lever over the trigger bar (Jon Moran makes these, Karma supplies a drawing with their trigger/sear sets, Cole Distributing uses this style). ORF uses a modified version that wraps around the timing screw bar, but basically the same. Ohio Ordnance uses a coil spring sized to fit the timing screw tight, and dishes a cup in the top of the trigger bar to retain it, very neat in my opinion. I have also seen a simple leaf spring retained by the timing screw over the top of the trigger bar, also very neat, but I'm not sure how long it lasts. I have yet to look at a McGuire, Valkyrie, Wiselite or US Ordnance gun, so I can't remark on those, and I've forgotten how TNW (or earlier MA&T) did theirs. Perhaps owners of the brands will chime in. I prefer the music (piano) wire style, I have 12,000 rounds through my personal beater shorty, no fatigue yet. The type you have is a Black Bear set-up, very neat and clean. I can recall telling Mark about this five or so years ago at Bullet Fest, he must have thought it was a good idea to incorporate it into his builds. Try going with a smaller diameter spring wire size, but keep the length for reset, it should lighten your pull.
Dan

 

[loboslanding]

If you want to bend a spring (my favorite) there is a tutorial on the home page. Use 4-5/8" in length in lieu of the 4-1/4" shown...makes a nice smooth trigger.pull. Good luck. http://1919a4.com/tutorials/tutorial-spring.php

 

[Ouchman]

Lee Machine used a wire "mouse trap" spring. I don't remember exacty what the pull is using a gage (straight updirection) but it's shy of 3#s. Several folks who have shot that gun have remarked how nice the trigger pull is.

 

[Cal.BAR]

OK question. In looking at the tutorial, the last pic shows that you can "adjust spring tension" by bending the arms up or down" (right?) so. if I want to affect my trigger pull (to lighten it) why do I need to rebend that wire when all I apparently need to do is bend the arms down a bit on the one I already have? Does this make sense?


Thanks

If you want to bend a spring (my favorite) there is a tutorial on the home page. Use 4-5/8" in length in lieu of the 4-1/4" shown...makes a nice smooth trigger.pull. Good luck. http://1919a4.com/tutorials/tutorial-spring.php

 

[theduke]

Tid bit of info I use..... Use the search box......Copy paste bits and pieces of Problem / parts of Thread titles
related to issue..As I did with your issue.

This is where it gets good and will take you deep into the archives...... example

http://1919a4.com/showthread.php?38328-failure-to-feed-and-other-issues.&highlight=Hard+trigger+pull


Now scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see Related Threads or some such thing.........These are Priceless bits of info that will entertain/educate for hours on end.
One will lead to another that will go to many...........its endless.
By no means am I disscourageing you to Post for HELP... There are no stupid ?'s aside from the ones you don't ask...Just a Very handy way to find long lost info.

You'll be amazed at what you will find.
Dan

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

Springs aside for the moment, How does your sear move in the sear slot? Is it gritty or tight?

The sear should move easily and smoothely when lubed if you remove the spring tension on it. Make sure of that first before you go chasing spring tensions.

 

[ajmdreammg42]

Had the same problem with my first build, turned out the trigger was hitting the aft bar on the lock frame preventing it from disengaging the sear, I milled a notch ( actually 30 cal machinegunner did, when I didn't have a mill yet) in the trigger bar and it worked great. See if you have the screw backed out all the way or just remove it from the aft bar of the lock frame, then see if the trigger is pulling up enough on the sear before its hitting the lock frame bar. let us know if you find a fix

 

[Cal.BAR]

Had the same problem with my first build, turned out the trigger was hitting the aft bar on the lock frame preventing it from disengaging the sear, I milled a notch ( actually 30 cal machinegunner did, when I didn't have a mill yet) in the trigger bar and it worked great. See if you have the screw backed out all the way or just remove it from the aft bar of the lock frame, then see if the trigger is pulling up enough on the sear before its hitting the lock frame bar. let us know if you find a fix

Mine isn't an issue with hitting anything or failing to move the sear. The sear slides very freely and falls right out once I capture the sear spring. The trigger works fine, but it requires 10+ lbs of force to move it. Most other posts (from my search) seem to blame the trigger return spring. They made an entire tutorial to make new springs. So the question was, can't I just fiddle with the spring to lighten the resistence?

 

[ajmdreammg42]

Mine isn't an issue with hitting anything or failing to move the sear. The sear slides very freely and falls right out once I capture the sear spring. The trigger works fine, but it requires 10+ lbs of force to move it. Most other posts (from my search) seem to blame the trigger return spring. They made an entire tutorial to make new springs. So the question was, can't I just fiddle with the spring to lighten the resistence?

Yes, I cut down the spring for the semi trigger, I have the coil type that goes in a hole in the semi trigger. I don't have the semi trigger That takes the piano type wire spring that you can bend yourself, even though I have a few extra's made for future use, Need one ? If so I'll give you one-- free ! That way you can experiment with trig ger pull.

 

[Fireman Dan]

McGuires is a neat deal. It's a spring plunger that screws into the izzy backbar hole.

 

[wangchung]

McGuires is a neat deal. It's a spring plunger that screws into the izzy backbar hole.

They are available from mc master&carr i put one in my 1919 along time ago after trying to get The wire spring to work! Later brian!