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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying out cheaper alternatives. Ppu is 10$ a box and runs great. But I have a surplus of Egyptian and tula.

So the m80 Egyptian is blowing primers out. Headspace is 4 turns out. I alsa tried 3 turns out. Still blowing primers.. Even splitting cases on some.

Tula is hot. Like most 308 vs 762 NATO..

So what do you guys do. Just not use it? Lol.

Thanks
 

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Trying out cheaper alternatives. Ppu is 10$ a box and runs great. But I have a surplus of Egyptian and tula.

So the m80 Egyptian is blowing primers out. Headspace is 4 turns out. I alsa tried 3 turns out. Still blowing primers.. Even splitting cases on some.

Tula is hot. Like most 308 vs 762 NATO..

So what do you guys do. Just not use it? Lol.

Thanks
Without sounding like a dick, I suggest you buy a headspace gauge and set it up per the TM. Headspacing to individual brands is a misconception. Where are you splitting the cases?
 

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Some of the older Tula has shitty cases that split and separate near the base. I still.have several K linked up I shoot when I feel like living in the danger zone. Even with proper headspace it still blows, have tried in Fal, and m240, it separates like a mofo no matter what.
Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I hear ya. but lets spit ball here for a second. I set the timing at 82 thou which is in range of the manual for 30.06 machines. but would the headspace gauge for 30.06 even help when running 762x51? Watching kalikomrades videos and mark crowders method of outside the gun. setting the barrel all the way in. running till the breach block seats then backing off 4 from there seems to be good with good brass ammo. and also with one other surplus i have. but the m80 just all over the place. which i have not ruled out the ammo. but tula should run. although i believe the pressures is much higher than the nato stuff im using.

but Im still learning so if that would be acceptable to use a factory headspace gauge i will try that.

the cases are splitting in middle between web and neck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some of the older Tula has shitty cases that split and separate near the base. I still.have several K linked up I shoot when I feel like living in the danger zone. Even with proper headspace it still blows, have tried in Fal, and m240, it separates like a mofo no matter what.
Dennis
Ah this is all new tula. i got a couple cases for a machine gun shoot. normally we just blast it off in the M14 when we wanna feel like men lol. but that egypt m80. wow. stuff always blows primers and splits some cases.
 

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Where do you hear four clicks out for head space. It should be set at 2 clicks out from lock up. Heat expansion on the barrel and trunion can cause the gun to run rough and sporadic so you can always turn it out one more click and that should smooth the gun out. Four clicks out is overly excessive. Check your Breach lock block, Check your trigger adjustment lock nut if its tight. Then Set your head space out side the gun at two clicks out, There is a video on the Tube how to find lock up of your barrel and extension and bolt out side the gun. Put your internals in. Then set your timing at no more than .072-.074 with a nice firm medium pull of the trigger, not a hard pull. Now you are good to recheck your head spacing inside the gun two clicks out from lock up. If you are still splitting cases try and new barrel first and then a new bolt. Compare firing pins used for squared or sharp points or worn short tips. Recheck timing anytime you replace ANY of the internal components including the barrel or even the sear or beach block. If the cases continue to split its an ammo problem. If the primers continue to protrude, see if they protrude in another gun. Split cases equal blown top covers and swelled side plates eventually. As long as the protruding primers are not causing extraction issues or hang ups, run it. If you are rupturing the primers don't run it and clean your firing pin area good. If this ammo is just a little too hot and its beating your gun up you could always try running the ammo out of a well worn or shot out barrel for less back pressure and see if that makes any difference. If it does help and you think its hot then I have one last Browning trick. I don't have a 1919 auto but a 1917 but if it were me and the ammo was just to hot and I had a lot of this ammo I would try reaming out a spare booster as a cheap fix but that is just me. If your primers are still falling out then sell it cheap to the last guy who ripped you off. Hahahahahaha Wait a minute, who was the last guy you ripped off??? Just kidding.
If you shoot polymer or especially lacquered cased ammo regularly then you should be polishing out your barrel chamber too. Even if it looks OK, take a little 000 steel wool lightly webbed on an old bore brush and chuck it in a cordless drill and hone the chamber for ten seconds. Then clean your barrel. Waxing your rounds also leads to better extraction. Work towards that. What is it that I use? You can't buy it anymore but this Zinc coated Bulgarian which is on the hot side and I wax. I'm almost out of it so brass case it the next easiest to load in belts.
Aaron

There is one more thing, does it run fine at first but then after a while start acting up? Are you running the gun just too hot, smoking or red barrels ect. Assuming you are oiling and you can't use too much but you can use too little or non at all? I've seen some folks not use oil and that is a good sign they don't have much of a clue. There is a certain military cadence of fire to keep the heat to a minimal for prolong operation. Its like three or four shots and then wait ten seconds and then repeat. If you are red line shooting then yes your head space will tighten up on you and you can get malfunctions. Are you letting it cool down? BTW you could always do the conversion over to a 1917 for a little extra cooling but the dynamics are the same. Till then leave your top cover open and your bolt back for fastest cooling.

Oh wait there is one more thing that is worth asking, are you running the gun on a buffered mount? Don't ! It messes with the recoil operation and I suspect the timing and its not designed for a buffered mount, its a Browning.

Ah this is all new tula. i got a couple cases for a machine gun shoot. normally we just blast it off in the M14 when we wanna feel like men lol. but that egypt m80. wow. stuff always blows primers and splits some cases.
 

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Without sounding like a dick, I suggest you buy a headspace gauge and set it up per the TM. Headspacing to individual brands is a misconception. Where are you splitting the cases?
The GI headspace gauge is for 30.06 not any good for NATO ammo. If you are meaning using a standard "Go/No Go" gauge then that may work but I have never done that. I have headspaced outside the gun for individual brands for over 30 years and it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Heading back out to range. dug up old manual from 1945 talked about headspacing outside the gun just like the only video on youtube and inside the gun like other videos show.

also same guys youtube video on timing. he corrected his video stating you don't want it to drop after .070 so i reset the timing to .065 and it doesnt drop at .082 but does drop ay .080 i think he has misinformation in that video. since he goes on to say max is still .130

So headspaced at 2 turns out from locking block going into bolt. will give this another run..

Thanks for the tips and keep sharing the knowledge. we all start somewhere.

And here is the guys video for anyone with a 7.62x51 setup that would like to tweek it.

Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qh2C2InBWb4
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Range Report.

Ok 2 turns out and reset the timing. tried that crappy OFV 762 and it ran better. sounded better but still was blowing primers out. out of 20 rounds it dropped 4 primers. So for the full auto guys running 762. what you think? i know it still could be ammo related but this stuff runs great in AR10 though.

now for the wolf/tula. still pretty loud. louder than OFV and other 762 stuff. but again after about 20 rounds it actually made the extractor spring pop outta place.

Im thinking about going 1 turn out from "Zero" headspace where the locking block goes into the bolt. and resetting the timing to 35 thou.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have it at .65 and tolerance .85 which it doesn't drop that pin. But I think ill try running different surplus brass. I would love to just get this lined out for the steel cased stuff. I have much much more of that than this surplus.

Woe is belt fed life lol.
 

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What will happen at 1 click out, it will run good for about fourty rounds and then bog down as the heat starts expanding parts. After 70 rounds it won't run right. Give it one more click out and it will run. This is something to look out for incase your headspace jumps and tightens up. Your timing sounds OK now.
I have it at .65 and tolerance .85 which it doesn't drop that pin. But I think ill try running different surplus brass. I would love to just get this lined out for the steel cased stuff. I have much much more of that than this surplus.

Woe is belt fed life lol.
 
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