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Discussion Starter #1
ok I started riveting today but I am having trouble getting the inside flush enough to get all the guts in!
does that make sense do I keep pounding outside looks good to me I compared the inside to the one I had already they need sinking a whole lot more any ideas please


Thanks!!!
 

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If. BUcking bar was not tight you may have to redo, that being said look closely if rivets are tight just a little positive on inside you file them flush and sand them smooth. While rivetting you need to check the bucking bar often that it is not loosening up from vibration

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Yes we have all had to dress rivets at one time or another.
Most times it is just a few swipes with a good file.:)
CaptMax
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok thanks for the input I have one of those sanders the guys in the shop use it and love it!!!
I bought and extra set of rivets for this reason only did the right side so I mite just start over!

Who and how much are bucking bars???
If I read correctly they need to be 1-17/32 wide?
The one I have is a machinest block that is 1.5 and I stuffed a stainless steel ruler in there!
So that could be it!

Thanks guys!!
 

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you should also always check the counter sink depth and pitch on each hole before starting the job a little late in this case but the good news is you will never make that mistake again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Should the rivets sit flush on the inside before starting????
RSP is a 100% KMP here we go I assumed ready to go ! Looks like the LSP !
But this is the 1st time I have ever done this planning on doing 2 (for my nephews)

Thanks!
 

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Should the rivets sit flush on the inside before starting????
RSP is a 100% KMP here we go I assumed ready to go ! Looks like the LSP !
But this is the 1st time I have ever done this planning on doing 2 (for my nephews)

Thanks!
The rivets should sit flush inside a little below ok but not above. Like previously mentioned test each counter sunk hole with a sample rivet to make sure it is ok and has the correct countersink with regards to the rivet.

The toughest rivets were the top plate. You need to be careful not to crush the top plate if you are using a press to set the rivets. I try to fit the bucking bar on the back two top plate rivets to hold the correct space.

Have fun. The next one will be a breeze.
 

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I usually set my plate inside up, on a steel block with a hole in it with the rivets in their holes and seat them firmly with a large punch and ball peen hammer, I like to make sure they fit/fill the countersunk hole as completely as possible, prob not necessary, but doesn't hurt anything. I also cover them with a layer of thin clear packing tape so they dont fall out as I move the box around.

riv.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm using one of MSG tools for setting with and air chisel (muffler gun) I think is what y'all call them!to me the outside looks great from what everybody is saying I think I might have a countersink problem or bar was loose! I will try to get some good pictures of it tomorrow and post them before I start over!!
 

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Should the rivets sit flush on the inside before starting????
RSP is a 100% KMP here we go I assumed ready to go ! Looks like the LSP !
But this is the 1st time I have ever done this planning on doing 2 (for my nephews)

Thanks!
They should fit flush but certainly not below so don't get carried away and over do it. It is a an operation where patience is important it is one thing to have them slightly proud but another to have to grind the heck out of the inside of your plate. Take your time and fit each one properly don't rush it and it will save you a lot of time later.
 

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Tom at Karma just de-burs the rivet holes (I believe with a 90 deg. cutter), you will need to chamfer the inside of the holes to match the rivet set you are using. Tom does it that way because people use rivets from many sources. With my rivets you'll need to cut them with a 60 deg. countersink, and approx. 0.270" in diameter. Just cut until the rivet sits flush in the chamfer. MSG
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The countersink was off so I did that today fit flush or a tad below feels a whole lot better gonna try to rivet it tomorrow!!! Glad I got the extra rivet s!!!!!!!

Thanks for everyone's input!!!!!
 

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The countersink was off so I did that today fit flush or a tad below feels a whole lot better gonna try to rivet it tomorrow!!! Glad I got the extra rivet s!!!!!!!

Thanks for everyone's input!!!!!
You DO NOT want the rivet head to be below flush! The bucking bar MUST have a solid rivet surface to bear upon!
If you rivet as is, the result will be loose rivets. It may not be apparent right away, or maybe never, but it WILL eventually loosen resulting in egged rivet holes or possibly worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got one done!!! As it turns out on the flushness they where a little out maybe half of them took a file just to bring them down which turned out best (I guess) ! Try to post some pics tomorrow!! Get some opinions on how I did!
Thanks again for all the info!!!
 

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,

Congrats on your first build. Sounds like your already hooked on the hobby. Here is just a small bit of advice when preparing your kit and plate before you build. Buy as many different metal files(under 8 inches long) as you can find. Hit the all the sharp edge's and lines cut into your rhsp and kit with a 5 or 6 inch fine tooth metal file, just enough to remove any sharp edges or metal bent by who ever demilled your kit. The most problems are usually on the front trunnion,where the lines are that go into the rhsp. And don't leave any gaps between the rhsp and your kit. These receiver's like to be perfectly square or you will go nuts trying to trouble shoot all the problems. That's why I put all the other rivets in first and use c-clamps to hold it all together until I get the bottom plate rivets done. Lastly,when you start the bottom plate rivets, line up all the holes first and drop a couple rivets in the opposite side of the bottom plate (from the outside in, just let gravity and some tape keep them from popping out while you are forming the other rivets) to keep the rhsp from moving after you start. And there is a guy on ebay selling this bucking bar http://www.ebay.com/itm/1919-A4-A6-rivet-tool-bucking-block-purpose-made-for-1919-30-cal-M-2-weapons-/281764011972?for 1919
 
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