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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've lived in Arizona long enough that I no longer know how to deal with rust. Seriously, we hit 32% relative humidity and people start to complain. :D I wasn't a gun owner before I moved to AZ and now that I am when I see rust on a firearm part it: 1) came from the east coast, and 2) had rust on it when it arrived.

I want to stop this evil before it starts pitting. The bolt is currently soaked in RemOil but that's not going to remove what has started.

My question is: what do I do about mild rust on parts like this 1919 bolt where bead/sand blasting and parkerizing isn't normally done to the part?





I also recently received an HK MP5K receiver flat that has minor surface rust on it. No idea where to begin.
 

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Put it in a gun, run 500 rds through it to make sure it works, clean. Might not get rid of the rust but you will quit worrying about it for a while. J
 

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For light surface rust:

1) vinegar
2) lemon juice
3) lime & salt
4) baking soda & water paste
5) citric acid
6) a potato and dish soap
7) oxalic acid (swimming pool cleaner)
8) phosphoric acid (coca-cola)
9) stainless steel, brass, copper scrubbers from grocery store
10) electrolysis

Lightly oil afterward with any oil based product except WD-40, as it leaves a scum when dried. I don't think there's any reason to not bead/sand blast and parkerize the part.


Carry On!
Gary
><>
 

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I blasted and parked my bolt. Is that bad? Its how the factory and the arsenals seemed to handle the situation.

Ignoring that for a second, take some oil, and some bronze wool. Scrub gently, rust should come loose, park should stay.
 

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Oil and an old plastic windshield ice scraper are what I try first on light rust. Since you don't have winter down there a plastic spatula from a dollar store (you've got plenty of those) will work. Go lightly and your finish will be none the worse for wear.
 

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Soak (for 24 hours) small parts in a can of "Ed's Red", large items get wrapped with rags soaked in it. Any scrubbing can be done with a tooth brush or green ScotchBrite pad. Wipe dry with clean rags and apply oil/grease as required.
 

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Good luck with Kroil here. Dish cloth w/kroil and a good 2 1/2 hr. movie.
CaptMax
 

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Put it in a gun, run 500 rds through it to make sure it works, clean. Might not get rid of the rust but you will quit worrying about it for a while. J
I have to agree with Frazer42 on this one :bigun2: it is much more fun than the other methods.
 

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Soak it in room temp Phosphoric acid overnight. rinse well, dry and oil.
Cold park solution works fine too. It'll remove scale too. Don't trust any paint to it. though. I have no idea if it will get under it.

I sprayed a friend's rusty truck roof with some, let it sit for an hour. The rust died and turned gray. Ready to wash, light sand and paint.

For rust that light, pretty much any of those suggestions will work.

If you get light rust on stainless, (yeah, I know, right??) a pencil eraser will rub it right off until it gets too deep or pitted. My carry .45 is ready for Cerakote because of that. Erasers only work so many times.
 

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Most rust removing chemicals will remove light rust but unfortunately they will also remove bluing and parkerizing as well. I have used some liquid rust removing chemicals like EVAPO-RUST with various results. I prefer Naval Jelly for mild or slightly heavy rust but not on stuff where I wish to preserve the finish. The pictures you show seem to show light rust that can probably be removed by the methods suggested. I would use light oil and some triple fine "000" steel wool.That will remove the visible rust but there will probably still be some inactive rust deep in the small spots. Keep it clean dry and oiled and they probably will never be a problem.
 

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rust

We lucky few that live out here tend to get sloppy with oiling our guns, it's so dry that we figure it doesn't need as much oil, which is usually true, but every so often we do get moisture spikes and then those uncoiled pieces can rust very quickly, I had guns in a safe I hadn't touched for ten years and never had problem, but then for some unknown reason I started getting rust spots where they were sitting on foam on the bottom,I stripped out the foam and put some oak boards in so they wouldn't hold and transfer the moisture so bad, I used a little Birchwood casey rust remover then blended it back with their liquid blue, and lots of oil afterward!
 

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You gotta be careful with that foam! NEVER leave a gun in a foam lined case. Some get away with it for long periods of time. Others will get nifty looking egg shell patterns of rust on the guns.
Seems to be a crap shoot. Why chance it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You gotta be careful with that foam! NEVER leave a gun in a foam lined case. Some get away with it for long periods of time. Others will get nifty looking egg shell patterns of rust on the guns.
Seems to be a crap shoot. Why chance it?
You mean styrofoam? Like the styrofoam that many firearms initially shipped in? Yikes. I have several new in box firearms, in their original styrofoam boxes.
 

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You mean styrofoam? Like the styrofoam that many firearms initially shipped in? Yikes. I have several new in box firearms, in their original styrofoam boxes.
I think Rugman meant the soft foam used in hard cases, the kind that are in most rifle/pistol cases, I have know guys that have stored them for years in our climate with no problem but also some who had rust show up days after being in one. Like he said why chance it?
 

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foam

I took some gun oil and soaked the foam in both of my hand gun cases, I wrung out all the extra, that seems to have taken care of rusting in the case, it does leave a fine coat of oil on the gun when you take it out,which I just wipe off with a rag when I shoot, it's been a couple years since I did this and I have seen a speck of rust since! But then again my hand guns get out a lot more often then the long guns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think Rugman meant the soft foam used in hard cases, the kind that are in most rifle/pistol cases, I have know guys that have stored them for years in our climate with no problem but also some who had rust show up days after being in one. Like he said why chance it?
Oh WHEW! I have a few NIB firearms that I just store in a safe in their boxes, all of which have Styrofoam.

Like I alluded to earlier about the rust on my 1919 bolt that I bought from an East Coast seller: the only time I see rust is when it's on something I bought from someone in the Midwest, East, or Southeast. :D

Not something I would want to contend with throughout the year. :(
 

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I think Rugman meant the soft foam used in hard cases, the kind that are in most rifle/pistol cases, I have know guys that have stored them for years in our climate with no problem but also some who had rust show up days after being in one. Like he said why chance it?
Yes, what he said! :)

Styrofoam is more or less waterproof. Probably a very good reason guns and electronic goodies are shipped and stored in it. You're good.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, what he said! :)

Styrofoam is more or less waterproof. Probably a very good reason guns and electronic goodies are shipped and stored in it. You're good.;)
I thought so but I'll have to admit to a minor freak out moment. Thanks for confirming! :D
 

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I was in the LGS one day , years ago , when a customer brought in a rifle to be worked on . He had removed it from his safe , looked it over , put it in a case , hauled it out to his car , laid it in the back seat , drove straight to the gun shop , walked in , and opened the case . It looked like he had dunked it in a water barrel . Water pored off the gun and onto the counter .
First and only time I'd seen that happen , but it taught me . Never store in a case .
Chris
 
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