1919 A4 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,417 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First things first: I'm not new to firearms; military surplus equipment; long term storage compounds like oil and cosmoline; and the interesting and sometimes nasty stuff our MG parts are oftentimes stored in.

That being said, this is ridiculous. Below is a linker I just got from Sarco and I have to say that whatever it is on this thing: it is the nastiest, stickiest, messiest, most impossible rust preventative compound I have ever dealt with. Furthermore, Sarco saw it fit to take this linker roll it in a vat of packing peanuts like sprinkles on a doughnut and toss it in the bottom of a box, then fill it to the top with more peanuts. When I unpacked it and pulled it out the first thing I thought it that it looked like a doughnut with sprinkles.

The pictures below were taken after about 20 minutes of picking off packing peanuts stuck to the surface.























Of course this is that they picture on their website:








:eek: :rolleyes: :mad: :eek: :jedicrying: :confused:


All kidding aside. What is this stuff? It has the consistency of 80-weight diff oil mixed with tar or sap. It is sticky, I mean STICKY.

How do I go about getting it off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,704 Posts
Yuck!
I prefer Maple Bars. LOL!

Brings 'tarred and feathered' to mind.

You're in Arizona? Got sun? Put it on some cardboard out in full sun for a while then scrape off the heavy stuff with a stiff plastic scraper. That should keep it from getting all scratched up.
What a nasty mess!

Low odor mineral spirits and decent paper towels from HD are fairly cheap. It's still gonna stink though. Do it as far from the house as you can get.

I might go as far as to wrap it tightly in thick burlap, soak it in mineral spirits then wrap it in a couple garbage bags. let it soak a while. The stuff is still flammable, so be careful.
Did I mention that looks nasty?
Sarco?? I wonder if the rust is hiding underneath. LMAO!!:D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
If you have access to an automotive parts washer an overnight stay and a bit of brushing will take it off. You should remove as many of the peanuts as you can before dumping it in the washer.

No parts washer? Put the linker on a welding table with some kind of catch pan underneath and go over it with a heat gun. The goop will run off like water once the metal is too hot to touch. Unless your spouse really enjoys the scent of warm cosmoline you might do this far away from the house. Borrow or buy a heat gun if you have to and resist the urge to fire up your torch. If you think the stuff smells nasty now and is impossible to get off, set it on fire and be amazed by the smell, the black smoke, and the brown semi-ceramic glaze that remains on the metal. :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,665 Posts
Pony up $4 for a car wash bay, some easy off oven cleaner... Worth a try anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,280 Posts
I think it more resembles a shitty s'more. Good ol' cosmoline applied hot and dipped. My .30 cal linker was the same. Dont put it on anything you like that lives inside. It will leak brown juice forever. J
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,616 Posts
easiest and safest way ( no harsh chemicals) is to place it in a tub of boiling water. I just bought large canning jar type cooking pot, heat up enough water to cover the item and the cosmoline just comes right off. Use tongs or pliers to grab it out, air dries quickly, then oil. Works on metal MG belts, Lewis drums ( I have some more of those to clean up) and small parts.Beats rubbing and scrubbing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,917 Posts
If you have a dollar store around you they sell this amazing **** called 'La's Totally awesome!'

stuff is non toxic , i used it to remove 100+ year old grease from a lathe and numerous things i've bought from sarco . :rofl:






Awhile back I had bought an old C96 stock from them and when I opened the box the stench of 40,000 years of funk filled my house immediately . that box/stock stunk so bad i tossed it back in the box for 2 months until it warmed up outside so I could work on it then.








nothing takes the cake like buying Breda 37 strippers/boxes from IMA and theyre so rank/full of mold you want to vomit, their return policy is good though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,417 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
WOW! All excellent suggestions, thank you!

I got a box of nitrile gloves from Harbor Fright! yesterday and some $0.25 spatulas from HD so I'm going to do a combination of all of your suggestions:
1) Let it soak in the sun until 5:00pm today. Supposed to hit 108-degrees, that should liquefy some of it.

2) Scrape with paint scrapers.

- Reevaluate

3) Heat gun -or- oven cleaner -or- power washing, likely all three.

4) Mineral spirits and a roll of blue shop paper towels

5) Take picture and post results

6) Get on Sarco's website and give this product a 1-star rating :mad:


So this is Cosmoline? I guess I have never seen it this viscus before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
799 Posts
I do the car wash for heavy cosmoline! When your done you don't have to figure out where or what to smear it on to get rid of it! Just my .02!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,417 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
i will take cosmo over rust/pitting any day.

108* :rofl: it was 42* here last night.
You're right about cosmo over rust. I just wasn't expecting this.

42 in July? We'll compare temps again in September... and October... and November... and December... and January, February, March, April, and May. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,417 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Got started after reading your suggestions this morning

This is the first pass after sitting outside overnight and an hour in the morning sun. The cosmoline is significantly different once it is warmed (as apparently everyone but me knows).

1) Rubber gloves
2) Warm it up
3) Blue shop paper towels
4) Place back in sun
- Will revisit in a couple hours for the next pass








I've had many cosmoline coated parts for AKs and firearms from other Com-bloc countries but that has always been dried and crusty not sticky and goopy like this.

I guess I've never encountered "fresh" cosmoline before. :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,475 Posts
Years ago I got a WWII German MG34/42 linker w/can from Marstar in Canada. It was in the same condition as yours. I cleaned it slick as a whistle very easily by:

1) Place it on a sheet of plywood and place it outside in the sun to heat up.
2) Go to you local auto parts store and get a spray can of engine degreaser.
3) After your linker is nice and warm from the sun, thoroughly spray it with the degreaser.
4) Let it sit for some time per the directions on the can so the degreaser can do its job.
5) Go inside into a nicely air conditioned room and have a couple of beers.
6) Go back outside and using a garden hose and hose down your linker.
7) Go back into the air conditioned room and have another beer.
8) Return outside and put your newly degreased and dry linker away.

The above worked like a charm for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
735 Posts
Back when I was young and stupid (now I'm older and stupid), I would clean off cosmo with gasoline. Shallow plastic pan, let it soak for a while. That being said, I love cosmoline. It keeps the rust away, and there is something nice about seeing a 70 year old item in perfect shape at the end of it all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,417 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Years ago I got a WWII German MG34/42 linker w/can from Marstar in Canada. It was in the same condition as yours. I cleaned it slick as a whistle very easily by:

1) Place it on a sheet of plywood and place it outside in the sun to heat up.
2) Go to you local auto parts store and get a spray can of engine degreaser.
3) After your linker is nice and warm from the sun, thoroughly spray it with the degreaser.
4) Let it sit for some time per the directions on the can so the degreaser can do its job.
5) Go inside into a nicely air conditioned room and have a couple of beers.
6) Go back outside and using a garden hose and hose down your linker.
7) Go back into the air conditioned room and have another beer.
8) Return outside and put your newly degreased and dry linker away.

The above worked like a charm for me.
My personal favorite: #5 :D

Thanks MG34_Dan! I'm going to hit the auto parts store shortly for the engine degreaser I just want to get as much of the cosmo off as possible first. Its going well I'll post pics in a few minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
APEX has the 20MM and .50 Caliber linkers too.
Some have what is closer to a tar on them.
I believe these were in long term storage wrap.
I would say many were stored outdoors in the desert and the coating baked on or melted off!
So, I have some with rust, and others with this coating.
For now the nicer units are going out the door, but when I get near the end of them I will have to update the picture & description!
On a related note, we pack in paper NOT styrofoam peanuts!






Richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
easiest and safest way ( no harsh chemicals) is to place it in a tub of boiling water. I just bought large canning jar type cooking pot, heat up enough water to cover the item and the cosmoline just comes right off. Use tongs or pliers to grab it out, air dries quickly, then oil. Works on metal MG belts, Lewis drums ( I have some more of those to clean up) and small parts.Beats rubbing and scrubbing.
I never thought of boiling LEWIS drums in water & simple green mix!
Some that I own came from IMA and have a mix of grease and fish tank gravel (same colours too) in some tough to reach areas.
Thanks for that suggestion.

Richard
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top