How to clean bullet sealant?
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Sealant
If you don't clean off the sealant, watch for sealant build up in the seating die this could affect overall length and chamber pressure.
I think Overbore had a post about this subject about a week ago.
Check it out he's a savy guy.
If you don't clean off the sealant, watch for sealant build up in the seating die this could affect overall length and chamber pressure.
I think Overbore had a post about this subject about a week ago.
Check it out he's a savy guy.
Wife has a different view
She reminds us all "there is a hyphen in dumb-****"!! I am in the amended process of cleaning a few thou pulled bullets and started with just angle cut ceramics. I have just modified and completed soaking the bullets in IPA ( rubbing alcohol { it has no noxious fume after effects}) . The down side is that it kills the tracer igniting compound. This process requires a quick hand wipe with paper towel to remove the sealant with about 4-7% requiring a final ceramic vibratory treatment to give 100% usable bullets at a low , low cost. ps; watch for strange items in the mass box of bullets---like lighter ones and double cannalures-----Overbore
She reminds us all "there is a hyphen in dumb-****"!! I am in the amended process of cleaning a few thou pulled bullets and started with just angle cut ceramics. I have just modified and completed soaking the bullets in IPA ( rubbing alcohol { it has no noxious fume after effects}) . The down side is that it kills the tracer igniting compound. This process requires a quick hand wipe with paper towel to remove the sealant with about 4-7% requiring a final ceramic vibratory treatment to give 100% usable bullets at a low , low cost. ps; watch for strange items in the mass box of bullets---like lighter ones and double cannalures-----Overbore
Yes, Sir!!
Slower but use the angle cut ceramic media. It will load up with the "tar" but the big advantage of ceramic is that is you, "Again while Momma is away", borrow her small mesh sifter, run hot water and stout detergent over the ceramic and have clean ceramic and not loose one grain of it!!! It works...Momma is now in Montgomery--- I am in Atlanta--- that is how I know----Overbore
Slower but use the angle cut ceramic media. It will load up with the "tar" but the big advantage of ceramic is that is you, "Again while Momma is away", borrow her small mesh sifter, run hot water and stout detergent over the ceramic and have clean ceramic and not loose one grain of it!!! It works...Momma is now in Montgomery--- I am in Atlanta--- that is how I know----Overbore
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I have a quantity of 5.56 tracers (pulled),. but before I went to extrenes like that,.. I have about 500 ea 556mm 62 gr pulled with the same compound,..
And for general info,.. I ran them thru the brass tumbler for 2 hours and all that happened is the shiny parts are shinier and the blackened parts are black,.. but drier.
I do have a sack of pecan shells and may crumble them and proceed in that direction on the pulled bullets,. the pecan shells are harder than the corncob media... will let ya know what happens,,
And for general info,.. I ran them thru the brass tumbler for 2 hours and all that happened is the shiny parts are shinier and the blackened parts are black,.. but drier.
I do have a sack of pecan shells and may crumble them and proceed in that direction on the pulled bullets,. the pecan shells are harder than the corncob media... will let ya know what happens,,
Yeah, already tried corncob with the same results. Thought about pecan shell but don't have any right now. I'll try the ceramic and detergent as that sounds like the best way. I didn't want to sit down for a weekend with rags and lacquer thinner, rather be at the range. I can always repaint the tips so I'll know what is what at the range, just in case the tracer is still good. Thanks, and if anyone else has any more results, please post.
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If you have access to a grinding wheel, the kind on a stand that you can change the wheels on. See if you can get a scotch brite wheel for it and pull up a stool for awhile.
If not and you have a dremel that has one of those stands you can do the same thing as they make little scotch brite pads for dremels. Only takes a couple seconds to spin the bullet on the pad.
I did this for some .50 BMG stuff that the tumbler wouldn't take off, the plus side is that it makes the bullets extra shiney.
If not and you have a dremel that has one of those stands you can do the same thing as they make little scotch brite pads for dremels. Only takes a couple seconds to spin the bullet on the pad.
I did this for some .50 BMG stuff that the tumbler wouldn't take off, the plus side is that it makes the bullets extra shiney.
50 Shooter
is on the right path as both Bear Tex and Scotch make abrasive cleaning 6x9 fabric pads that will remove the toughest tar residue with a simple twist of the wrist of the pad if dampened with IPA. Overbore ps: stay the hell away from strong solvents indoors. The fumes will "scramble your eggs"::-- I learned the very hard way--
Overbore
is on the right path as both Bear Tex and Scotch make abrasive cleaning 6x9 fabric pads that will remove the toughest tar residue with a simple twist of the wrist of the pad if dampened with IPA. Overbore ps: stay the hell away from strong solvents indoors. The fumes will "scramble your eggs"
::-- I learned the very hard way--Overbore
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Rory,
Try using a dremel for the small stuff or as Overbore stated, do it by hand.
You also might want to wear one of those paper masks as the tar dust will set off your asthma if you breath it in. I don't have asthma but it had me caughing after about 20 or so. Shirt over the face helps.
Try using a dremel for the small stuff or as Overbore stated, do it by hand.
You also might want to wear one of those paper masks as the tar dust will set off your asthma if you breath it in. I don't have asthma but it had me caughing after about 20 or so. Shirt over the face helps.
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