1/4" may just bend on you. I'd suggest something more like 1/2", as the holes are 5/8 and you want something near that size, just in case you have to lean on it to break free.would 1/4" Steel Rod work or do you think I should get something thicker?
I don't want to use something to thin and have it snap on me
But you do and it's really uncalled for. He's asking legitimate questions and is smart enough to do that before he tries to attempt the work he is wanting to do. The advice you offer up is sound and I'm sure he appreciates that. It's what he's looking for.Hey man, I dont want to sound like a dick, ...
You work with what you have, and that is all you can do. Now assuming your gun is already a semi build, as I stated above, most builders will have pulled the jacket in the process of building and parkerizing. If so, then there is no reason to think the jacket got soldered back on, even if it came that way in the kit before being assembled. It should not, therefore, require that much effort to break free. If it has the retaining screw, you will see that clearly on the right side, so remove that as stated. You still need a solid breaker bar, and Scott is right about leverage being your friend here, so get something at least 24" long. Usually, these only require heat when they are still attached from 70 years ago, and have had those decades of time for mild corrosion to set in. Or the occasional soldered example. You won't know for sure what you have until you try, but it is like as not that it will break free with just adequate leverage. That being said, I could be completely wrong and you might need the torch, etc. But try the easy road first.Scott,
I do have a tripod and the tools to go do most things I need to do. as for the vice its not a matter of the cost its a case of having no where to put it. I live in a one bed room apartment with absolutely no room to put a work bench, and a vice isn't even worth the scrap metal its made of if you cant secure it to something.
my one bedroom apartment also has wall to wall carpeting and carpet + blowtorch = no more appartment.
I know that you don't mean to be a dick about this but try not to tear into a guy without knowing all the facts. I ask these questions because I know my limitations and want to find ways around them. also because I know just enough about the 1919 to screw it up and I want to learn more, I am sure every one on this Forum was at that point once upon a time.
I am a a reenactor and i use those 7.62NATO german surplus plastic blanks. 30-06 blanks get expensive quickly when you use 500+ per battle.Welcome to our small world. Reading your profile I notice you also re-enact with WWII groups. Any possibility you were recently at the Northfield, MN event? Running on 30-06 or .308 blanks?.
Righty tighty and lefty loosey from either end.Do I turn counter clockwise from the receiver end or the booster end?
Uncalled for?But you do and it's really uncalled for. He's asking legitimate questions and is smart enough to do that before he tries to attempt the work he is wanting to do. The advice you offer up is sound and I'm sure he appreciates that. It's what he's looking for.