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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I FINALLY got the chance to test my first 1919 build, the one that hottak47 (a.k.a. Dutch) help me build, then I go and break it! By the way, it was nothing ducth did! His help was much appreciated and the build went well.

So I get er to the "pit" and fire of a good 250-300 rounds FLAWLESSLY...no hiccups, holdups, hangups, nothin! Perfect...then the bolt gets stuck about 1/4 from full lockup.

So I wait a good minute because I didn't know if it was live or not, thenI try to rack the bolt, but cannot, at all! She's stuck good. So I hit it with a "tool" and then try to chamber another round. No go, bolt won't close. This time she's REALLY stuck. So stuck I had to take the whole gun, put her vertical and slam the bolt down on the rear bumper of my truck to get it to dislodge.

Then I go to lay her down and I hear a rattle. Whoops! Find out the barrel extension cracked! And judging by where it is, it was from the bolt hitting the lockup "tab" in the extension that pushed back on the rear of the extension and too much stress caused it to crack!

So finally, my qustion is....WTF! Haha. I am mainly looking for opinions here. Here's the info.....good build, it was headspaced perfect (I think). Fired a good 300 rounds before this happened. I was using 50's yugo (good/bad...i know i know....) And the main concern for me was the booster. I was still using a .308 booster. I did a posting on here earlier and most of you said I could get by "testing" my 8mm 1919 with a .308 booster. Well, is 300 rounds too much for it? Because I know that was a lot of excess pressure. Anyways.....JOhn B. McGuire was kind enough to send a new extension out right away today...but I don't feel like breaking another extension....so what do you guys think?! Did I break it or did the ammo??!?!






 

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WOW.. Sorry for your troubles. I would hate to think that it was anything other than you slamming the gun, coupled with an existing hair crack (?)

I have not had mine too long so and not shot much. Cannot wait to see opinions on this.

PS: Hello All.. I have been lurking and did not realize that I have yet to make a post.
Fred - From CA!
 

· Legendary Donor
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I have seen a few barrel extensions give out like this. Remember most of these parts have seen hard use and we don't know what all they have been through.
I personnally wouldn't use the 308 booster for 8mm, it could be the cause as the booster is going to cause the bolt to have a sharper impact on the locking bolt where the extension broke. If it was me I would switch it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Where is the cheapest place to get an 8mm/.30-06 booster?!?!?!!?
 

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I had the same thing happen about a year ago. The crack was identical to yours. Remember these extensions are at least 60 years old and the breachlock takes a lot of stress. Always a good idea to keep a spare on hand. -Mike
 

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Wouldn't a .308 booster cause potential damage on the recoil operation, while the bolt was cycling back, rather than cycling forward? :confused:

Maybe the thinking is that the bolt was get bouncing around so hard on the complete cycle that it just beat your extention to death?


Hey, I'll help you out and buy that broken part off ya fer cheap to help me build my dummy gun! :D
 

· PhD in Over-Engineering
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I am curious as to the manufacture of the barrel extension. What is the mfg code on it?
 

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Brass and a hammer

It is always wise to have a variety of brass rods, a rubber mallet and hammer in your range box. It may not have been enough in this situation but better to start out gently and then get tuff. Another small item to carry is steel wool. In a pinch you wrap it around the brush on your cleaning rod to remove broken cases.
Sarco has replacements for $30, anybody know of a better price?
 

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ww2willysjeep said:
She's stuck good. So I hit it with a "tool" and then .... This time she's REALLY stuck. So stuck I had to take the whole gun, put her vertical and slam the bolt down on the rear bumper of my truck to get it to dislodge.
Remind me never to loan you one of my guns. :D

Seriously - there are much better ways of treating a gun - even one that is malfunctioning. (Maybe especially one that is malfunctioning.) It's a given that something isn't fitting or moving as it should, so it's a good idea to figure out as much about the problem as you can before beating the crap out of it. It may take a little longer, and might mean you're done shooting for the day - but smashing gun parts can set you back a little further.

It is always wise to have a variety of brass rods, a rubber mallet and hammer in your range box. It may not have been enough in this situation but better to start out gently and then get tuff.
Absolutely. Although replacement parts are still available - keep in mind that those replacement parts are more than a half century old, and will only get scarcer. As to repair tools to carry - I'd add a few pieces of hardwood in useful sizes and shapes. They're less damaging even than brass, and you can get more surface area against a piece.
 

· Watercooled Addict
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You can ream that booster out to 30-06 specs. On most of the izzy ones you can see where it was plugged to reduce it from 06 to 308 when they converted the guns.
 

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I saw this post this morning and refrained from posting till now. The gun is a tool that you really don't want to mistreat too much. I have seen people beat their bolts loose in the same manner on several different weapons, i.e. AR's, AK's, etc to dislodge a stuck round. I will have to vote for the guys who remove problems with care rather than using major force as there is getting to be a smaller supply of repair parts for these 1919A4's.
30.06 boosters on all but .308. .308 boosters for that respective caliber IMHO.:cool:
 

· PhD in Over-Engineering
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I am experimenting with booster orifices now on my Hybrid prototype, which utilizes the M37 drive spring. I found it doesn't like the 30-06, .718 diameter, and runs fine on the 308, which is near .500. I am trying .600 next. It seems that somewhere I saw that the M37 spec boosters were at .595, but I can't find the source where I saw that, unfortunately. In any case, with the full weight internals of a 1919, I imagine the gun can get beat up over time with too small of a booster. With lightened internals, like on an ANM2, the high speed pounding is likely to be less hard on everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Remind me never to loan you one of my guns. :D

Seriously - there are much better ways of treating a gun - even one that is malfunctioning.
Haha....well thanks for the responses guys. Much appreciated. You guys kinda summed up everything I had in mind.

And as far as me "beating" on the gun.......its not as bad as it sounds. Believe me when it comes to firearms, I am very careful, respectful, gentle etc...etc.... It just sounds worse when typed out. I didn't SLAM it onto my bumber, I merely let the weight of the gun falling get the bolt moving. Yada yada...anyways....I will try and get an 8mm booster and use the new extension and see what flys.....hopefully not parts.......:rolleyes:
 

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Rory keep me in mind please

Rory
Ammo Bearer Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,252

Quoting Rory "well i just throw the whole damn thing away and get another when i get a stuck bolt or any other such problem"


Sounds great Rory! But please make sure I'm nearby to retreive those troubled toys you are tossing. :)

For that matter you should probably throw away any that may need cleaning or have dust on them too!

List of suggested items:
Mausers, Brownings, Rugers, Berettas, Barrets, AR-15s, AR-10s, S&Ws, Remington Model 8 (in .300 Savage please), Springfield Armory, and ....
 

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Food for thought.
i have personally measured a bunch of boosters here is what ive seen on average.
.308 =.531
30/06 g.i. .718
m-6 flash hiders .720/.723
the m-6 flash hider works good on my 8mm as is and does not beat up the gun ........so far:eek:
 

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The only gun you can BEAT ON to get the bolt to cycle, and not damage it, is the Mossin Nagant! :D
 
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