I received and test fired my first semi 1919 today........

4973 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Abwehr, Jul 28, 2006

balming

Discussion Starter · Jun 29, 2006

I received my semi 1919 in 8mm and .308 today from John McGuire. He sent it set up in 8mm at my request, since I already had a few cans of that oily, brass cased, Yugo stuff linked up already. It came into the country like that a few years back.

I took it out behind the gunshop and it fired every round I put through it flawlessly. Not a single failure to feed, fire, extract, or eject. I'm very pleased with John's work!

I attached the 6 lobe crankfire unit I got from Emory, and followed the directions exactly, but I never could get it to function like I thought it should. I followed his instructions to a "T".

Maybe I need to get a few hundred more rounds through the gun or something, I don't know.

Overall I'm quite pleased, and hooked!!! I have a kit I'm building myself right now, and another kit coming in about a week.

B

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1919Semi-Owner

· #2 · Jun 29, 2006

Just wondering... what type of problems did you encounter with the crank system?

balming

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 30, 2006

First of all let me say that Emory's crankfire device is VERY well made, top notch machinework for sure!!!

It seems like I'm getting a rate of fire that I think I could do without the unit attached. If I crank it faster, it will "skip" firing on every lobe.

I may have to shoot a buttload (how many are in a buttload, anyway!

) and see if that makes the gun settle in and fire a bit faster. I'm not expecting 500 rpm, but 250 or so would be nice.

B

brassmagnet

· #4 · Jun 30, 2006

You mentioned it is a new gun, so yes it may need to loosen up a bit. It is also very easy to over crank until you get the feel of the system - that will come with practice ( more shooting

)

Give it a little time - you'll find Emory's system to easily get 350 RPM

30calmachinegunner

· #5 · Jun 30, 2006

or you could always go the "just pull the trigger and let'er rip route", like I have always been told, money can't buy you happiness but it can get you a transferable full auto

balming

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 1, 2006

30calmachinegunner said:
or you could always go the "just pull the trigger and let'er rip route", like I have always been told, money can't buy you happiness but it can get you a transferable full auto

<<<<Sigh>>>>

I really do NEED a transferable fullauto.

Right now I'm trying to devise a way to mount 2 semi 1919s on my tripod and crank them that way. But I also have 1 gun finished, 1 half way finished, and another kit/sideplate/kmp parts set on the way. What I would REALLY like is a quad 1919 semi setup with 1 crank!!!

Has anyone ever mounted 4 1919s before?

B

brassmagnet

· #7 · Jul 1, 2006

Can you imagine trying to catch all the empties as they fell???

G

· #8 · Jul 1, 2006

could anyone afford to feed a quad? what a beast

balming

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 1, 2006

I guess my problem could be that I had no sandbags holding down the tripod.

Didn't I read somewhere that the more stable your tripod/weapon, the better crankfire assys. will work?

Balming

brassmagnet

· #10 · Jul 1, 2006

I guess the more solid you are the faster lockup will take place without rattling and vibrating things into place. That would definately aid in speeding up the whole process

loboslanding

· #11 · Jul 2, 2006

Concerning your Crankfire setup, the semi auto can only cycle as fast as it can reset the trigger and if the trigger is bouncing it will reset slow. John apparently makes a gun second to no one in quality, but hardly anyone makes one ready for a Crankfire. I don't know what type of trigger reset springs mfgrs use, but on my 1919 and '28 with Crankfires I made my own return spring and I use about .070 to .080 thick music wire so those babies reset super quick. Most trig springs I see are around .055 in wire size which is easy on the finger, but I don't feel is stiff enough for a Crankfire...my .02. I'm probably around 425 rpm on my 1919 and 325 +/- on the slower '28.

Good luck and have fun.

balming

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jul 2, 2006

My trigger is not resetting.

I figured it out after coming home from the range today. When the gun is empty, and I squeeze the trigger to fire it, then cock the weapon with my finger still squeezing the trigger, it does not reset when I let off the pressure. I have to push down on the trigger to get it to reset again.

I have plenty of spring stock, how do I make the spring? Just a simple torsion type spring like the AR15 has on the hammer and trigger?

B

balming

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jul 2, 2006

Nevermind. I found the tutorial about trigger return spring construction, and I built one that resets the trigger 100% now.

B

loboslanding

· #14 · Jul 3, 2006

Now you're cookin'! Have fun.

1919Semi-Owner

· #15 · Jul 3, 2006

I had what may have been a similar problem. I had to lower the bar that lifts the trigger.

You may want to lower it until it doesn't work at all and use this as the starting mark? Turn 1/4 turn until it works properly.

Abwehr

· #16 · Jul 28, 2006

Return Spring

The Trigger Return Spring on the tutorial works great and takes about 5 min. max to make one. I have a stick of .062 music wire that I make mine from and my trigger pulls are very nice without having polished the contact points. My 1919 Water Cooled (Ohioblacksheep water jacket) I recently completed has the best trigger pull of my other 1919s. When I get home, I think I will put a nice polish job on the trigger where the spring contacts and see if it gets even better!

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

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