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The information in this thread was obtained from the very knowledgeable and supportive members and other resources on this forum. I'd like to thank Amorer, Lucky#13, Glass Mountains, T&S Manufacturing, Gunner 50, kkkriverrats, RHW1225, frazer42, Outdoordave, Mr. Gadget, and Wangchung for helping me with this info. Also I'd like to thank loboslanding for the awesome tutorials and pics....some of which I used in this thread. Here is a link to the thread that inspired this tutorial. http://www.1919a4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35945

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If you are a new owner of a 1919 and it's not functioning properly please read this thread.
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The first thing you MUST do is....get to know the various parts and their corresponding names. This will make things much easier.

Parts and Part Names
http://1919a4.com/tutorials/tutorial9.php

Main Internal Components

Bolt
http://1919a4.com/tutorials/tutorial2.php

Lockframe
http://1919a4.com/tutorials/tutorial3.php

Barrel Extension
http://1919a4.com/tutorials/tutorial4.php

Next learn how to Fieldstrip the firearm.
http://www.1919a4.com/tutorials/tutorial1.php

Before you go any further!! If you are not absolutely certain the headspace has been properly set on your 1919..... SET THE HEADSPACE!! THE HEADSPACE SHOULD BE SET TO THE SPECIFIC AMMO YOU WILL BE SHOOTING!!
http://1919a4.com/tutorials/tutorial-headspacing.php

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Gun jamming/binding up, bolt/internals/barrel not fully going into battery? Follow this checklist.


1.) Make sure your weapon is throughly and properly lubed. These babies like to be greasy!
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2.) Make sure you have the proper barrel booster and that there are no obstructions in the booster which would not allow the barrel to fully seat.

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3.) Make sure the lock cam screw is not too long. If it is too long it may be extending above the cam lock causing the internals to catch. BTW, the cam lock should be a little loose. The cam screw should be tightened and then backed off approximately 1/4 to a 1/2 turn and then staked. This is located on the bottom of your 1919.


When the internals are out and you look inside this is what you are looking for. Make sure the top of the screw is not protruding above the cam lock. If it is remove enough to make it flush.

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4.) Make sure the breech lock is properly installed. The chamfered edge faces foward/towards barrel.

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5.) Check your "T-Bar" tailpiece on the barrel extention to make sure it has been properly beveled to allow the trigger sear to depress fully below the bolt. The bevel should be cut enough to so that the sear does not touch when the trigger is pulled. Note the one indicated in the picture. It has a beveled "T-bar" in comparison to the unmodified one on the bottom. ***Your T-bar may not need to be beveled this much. It should be cut custom to your trigger sear...but you get the idea.***

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6.) Make sure your trigger stop screw is not adjusted too far in not allowing your trigger and sear to fully depress.

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7.) Check your accelerator to make sure the proper relief cuts have been made to ensure there is no binding/catching on the trigger sear.

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8.) Check your lock frame where your trigger pivots. Sometimes (like mine) these guns will have a narrow trigger installed without proper shims. The problem is the lock frame was intended to contain the wider military FA trigger. So, with a narrow trigger installed there is too much slop/play and the trigger will not align parallel/center to the lock frame. This can be fixed with equal width shims or small washers installed on either side of the trigger.

Shims


Washers

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9.) Check to make sure your accelerator stop stud is still attached. When the lock frame was milled to be BATFE compliant the stud bolt is milled also causing them to sometimes fall out. If yours is missing it can be fixed by using an allen head bolt. You can tack weld the screw on the inside of the lock frame or use a silver solder and braze it in. If you solder it, make sure you get the solder to flow into the seams between the stud and lock frame. ***On the outside of the lockframe where it has been machined the new stud must be absolutely flush or it may cause more jams/binding.***

Missing stop stud


Accelerator stud made from allen bolt



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The following information is based off of my experience with a 1919 chambered in .308/7.62x51 NATO.

Belt/Ammo not feeding properly.

1.) First, as stated in the beginning of this tutorial.....make sure you gun is properly lubed up. It has been recommended that your links be lubed too.
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2.) Make sure you are using .308 compatible links in your .308 1919. You can use 30.06 links in your .308. However, if you are using 30.06 links then make sure your cartridges are properly set. If linking .308 cartridges in 30.06 links by hand, push them all the way up and then back them off a couple of millimeters. If using a linker stop just shy of fully seating the cartridges to resemble the placement of the cartridges in the second picture below.

Fully seated (now back them out to resemble the second picture below this one)


Properly set 30.06 links for use in .308 1919

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3.) Check the arm on the belt feed pawl. Sometimes these can be bent foward a little too much. When not properly aligned they will rest on top of the links instead of falling behind the link and resting on top of the cartridge. The feed pawl must seat properly in order to push the linked ammo into the gun.

Arm on belt feed pawl.


Feed pawl arm resting on link (dont want it to do this)


Feed pawl properly resting on cartridge.

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4.) Check the feed pawl spring tension. There should be adequate tension on this spring.

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5.) Check the top cover extractor spring. It should look similar to this. If not, remove it and carefully adjust the highlighted area.

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6.) Check the belt holding pawl spring tension. It has been pointed out to me that the springs in many of the Izzy .308's are too stiff and cause feeding issues. If all of the above have yet to fix your feeding problems you can remove the holding pawl and remove the spring and then try shortening it by one or two coils. I dont know if I'd recommend removing more than that.



Hope this helps!

Jason
 

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Here are a couple things that I'd like to add:

First is that before you shoot the gun study how the gun operates when it is fired (take it apart and mess around with it). If you know how things are supposed to work before you shoot then trouble shooting becomes much easier if something doesn't work right. The manuals that are available for free from the main page on this site are very helpful for this. Become familiar with your new gun and treat it as if it was your girlfriend.

Another thing is to lube the internal moving parts well and often. It doesn't matter what you use (I happen to use motor oil nothing special) just that you lube it. Do not run it dry.

Also know that the gun only works well if the cartridge is made to the correct over all length (OAL) which most commercial store bought cartridges are not (they are normally too short). Either reload to the correct OAL or buy military spec/surplus ammo. If you reload you can set the OAL quite easily and all or most of your guns in the same caliber will still be able to use them if you want.

Good OAL (Note extractor position and that the cartridge touches both the spacer at the front and the bolt face without binding)



Bad OAL (Note extractor position and the round is not touching the bolt face at all)

 

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two thumbs up!!

Exellent job!! I brought this up in a post a while ago that this was needed. I unfortunatelly had not the time or extensive knowledge to complete such a task so Kudos to you guys for this!! And yes it needs a perminant place on the site like all the other Info. It should cut down on the redundant posts and also will lessen the possibility of misguided information. Awsome job!!!:D
 

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Exellent job!! I brought this up in a post a while ago that this was needed. I unfortunatelly had not the time or extensive knowledge to complete such a task so Kudos to you guys for this!! And yes it needs a perminant place on the site like all the other Info. It should cut down on the redundant posts and also will lessen the possibility of misguided information. Awsome job!!!:D
:) Thanks bud, I sat at the computer for many many hours putting it together yesterday. However, I couldn't have done it without the members on this site. It was their knowledge, I just put it together. Consider it my way of saying thanks and trying to contribute. I sent a message to the site administration asking them to make it a sticky.
 

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Great job, SOCOM! I had also put in a request to make this a sticky, my powers as a Mod applying only to the Tech Forum. Thanks for making the time and the effort to get this going.
 

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link to Jamming/Binding & Feeding Malfunction Tutorial for New 1919 Owners with pics

bump for Jamming/Binding & Feeding Malfunction
 

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Absitively, posilutely -- great job. Thanks Marion, et al ! Now, as, Lucky#13 SEZ "....put in a request to make this a sticky,..."

As well as a "sticky" it should be put into "Tutorials" -- AFTER THE SEARCH FUNCTION GETS FIXED, IMPROVED, OR WHATEVER IT NEEDS TO BE ABLE TO BE FOUND EASILY LATER !!!


Carry On!
Gary
><>
 
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there was a request to make this a sticky thread and its absolutely invaluable for our community so it has been promoted to permanent status at the top
 

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Too bad the links are all broken, lots of great info lost.
 
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