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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was playing around in the garage tonight setting up some guns for blanks and I swapped in a spare barrel extension to try. The gun ran 100% before swapping the part. with the new extension in, the gun will not fire. It looks to be an nos barrel extension but it could have been reparked at some point. I didnt have time to check all the dimensions yet and I am wondering where I should look? The gun is fully in battery and the trigger moves up like normal but just does not trip the firing pin. I am guessing there is play in something or a tolerance is off. Has a anyone had this issue? Thanks for any help. Dan
 

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Pull your backplate and remove the rod of death from the bolt for safety. If your trigger is not pulling the sear down far enough it will not trip the firing pin. By having the rod of death out you can get an eye on what may be going on. (Without getting an eye put out.) That will allow you to reassemble and try to diagnose the problem
 

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Compare the tops of the "tails" on the extensions. Sometimes they have to be cut down to allow the trigger to depress far enough to pull the sear down.
 

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PhD in Over-Engineering
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This is a full auto gun, I assume? Hmm. I would try the suggestion Gulf State Guard gave. Shouldn't need the BE tail modified, but anything you can see in there may help. Are you sure nothing else has changed? I have no experience with blank firing, but I don't imagine that is a factor here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. I will check it out later after work. Yes its a full auto gun. I am going to pull the rod and spring out so i can view whats happening. It looks to me like the bolt has a lot of movement when the trigger is pulled . The back of the bolt is dropping as the sear is pulled. I am thinking the slot for the bolt may out of spec? The blanks really dont change much with the operation of the gun internally. Its just the muzzle adapter that is the big difference. The biggest pain with blanks in a browning is the cartridge stop. All the different makes of blanks seem to vary in length so you need a custom stop for each one to get the tight tolarance needed to make it run smooth. Just made one up for my gun to run the plastic blanks. They are about 5 cents a round so its cheap shooting at reenactments and living history events! Thanks again and i will post here with what I find.
 

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Not to start a "rod of death " thread, but this is something EVERYONE needs to watch out for. We were cleaning the 5 various Browning FA guns after a big shoot this fall. tear down was fine, cleaning a pain. Along about gun 3 or 4, bolt was removed and carefully set in a padded vice to remove the recoil spring. Son and I were standing these chatting about something when "sproooinnggg." rod shoots up into the ceiling. ok, you say, rod detents not fully in place and it slipped ? no . I am really careful about that and make sure before the back plate comes off. Seems the little cross pin in the recoil spring rod had sheared off under spring tension, allowing the rod to eject. so, treat that bolt like a loaded gun, and never get in the path of the rod. Another data point is that all the springs had some amount of rust on them, since I dont typically coat them in oil. We cleaned out the bolt channels, ultrasonic'ed the springs and bolts, and re-assembled. I ended up replacing 2 drive rods because of wear on the cross pins. Just something to watch out for.
 

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PhD in Over-Engineering
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I am going to second MG08's warning. I had my own experience at one of the old So Cal shoots a few years back. Had to field strip a 1919 on the tripod, and the first time I started sliding the bolt out of the receiver, the rod went flying and just missed the calf of one of my buddies, ten feet away. I thought, to my embarrassment, that I had failed to lock the rod at a full 90 degrees. So when, 20 minutes later, I was pulling it apart again, I made darned sure the pins was locked in the bolt. Started sliding that bolt out again- making sure everyone was aware and out of range- the darned thing took flight again, this time catching the web between my thumb and forefinger. Bled quite nicely, and the scar will always be there to remind me. To MG08's point, I found the cross pin was noticeably worn, much shorter on one side than the other. That made it a dangerous weapon all on its own. Lesson learned, I inspect every drive spring rod I use to make sure it is is in spec.
 

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Well that makes three of us that I know of with drive rod scars, maybe we should start a seperate thread.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The dealer I bought my gun from in the early 90's couldnt stress it enough to me. I didnt know anything about the brownings and he told me always treat the bolt with the spring locked like a loaded and cocked revolver with a hair trigger.
 

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This question and warning comes up quite often. At one time somebody talked about developing a captive spring but I believe it would have required a modification to the bolt. I have wondered if it would help at all to figure out how to fasten the spring to the rod. This would slow down the rod and probably limit the range as it would be trying to drag the spring behind. This seems to be the philosophy behind the little tab on the side of the plunger of the M1911 pistol that connects to the recoils spring. I launched a few of those plungers until I figured out what the little tab was for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I did some looking at the gun and it seems as though the slots for the bolt in the barrel extension are worn. When lifting the trigger, the bolt seems to pivot quite a bit and the back drops as the sear is pulled. The firing pin will release with the rear cover off but not with the gun together. I have to do some measuring to see how far it is worn. I tried a few other extras and they seem ok. Thanks for everyones help. Dan
 

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Just make sure you set it aside as either dummy build material or run a saw through it so it doesnt become someone elses problem down the road. Glad you figured it out.
 

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Rod of death

When I first got my 1919 no one informed me of the danger. I found the rod in another room. "Oh, OK good safety tip". Sounds like I need to take a look at the rods in both my 1919 and 1917 just in case they are worn. I have been lax on this issue. Thanks.
 
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