1919 A4 Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am building a M2HB and have a question regarding riveting. What is the current preferred riveting method?

I see reference to the Plinker762 jig - however most of those references are years old and I'm not sure if the jigs are still available. I used a riveting fixture from BurntCapital when building my 1919 - however the dome size of that isn't large enough to look right on the M2HB.

Another option is a dedicated riveting gun like the ATS 4x. It's rated for 3/16" steel rivets. The triggers are progressive for more control.

https://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=ATS-4X

So what's everyone using?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,252 Posts
rivets galore...

Used the same tool from Burnt Capital on both the 1917/1919 and .50 BMG M2HB's. Also used 2-sets of bucking bars...1-bottom plate and another for the trunion on the M2HB .50. Only messed up 1-M2HB box...little out of square.... out of 16-M2HB's and completed over 100-1917/1919's. There are nearly 60-rivets to complete an M2HB box...including the cocking piece. Never an easy task...just take your time and get it right the first time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Used the same tool from Burnt Capital on both the 1917/1919 and .50 BMG M2HB's. Also used 2-sets of bucking bars...1-bottom plate and another for the trunion on the M2HB .50. Only messed up 1-M2HB box...little out of square.... out of 16-M2HB's and completed over 100-1917/1919's. There are nearly 60-rivets to complete an M2HB box...including the cocking piece. Never an easy task...just take your time and get it right the first time.
I just realized this tool is designed to use standard 0.401 rivet setting tools. I'll just use that and get a set of 'tip' for it to better match the M2 head.

What bucking bar are you using? Is there a common one that is used for these builds? I had made the one for my 1919, but would like to find something better.
 

·
PhD in Over-Engineering
Joined
·
12,239 Posts
Just for what it is worth, toolmanm203 is making the current versions of the Plinker 7.62 fixtures, including a modified one we worked out for the M2HB. Not sure what he has in stock currently, but these are worth your consideration. As to bucking bars, you do have different needs than what's used in the 1919 build, though a basic wedge bucking bar is a good foundation. L999here has done far more .50s that me, so he could advise you better than I. Or Tom at KMP. But as you found, there are all kinds of rivet tools available, and different methods. For me, the Plinker's jig is the cat's meow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
Like was already said, lots of right methods. I'm a fan of the rivet gun you linked in the first post.

I used the 1919 wedge with a steel block behind for the wider width. worked fine.

here' my method:
http://1919a4.com/showthread.php?53355-FN38-build-plus-how-I-rivet&highlight=fn38

Unless MSG has a better rivet kit, dang near every rivet needs to be trimmed on the M2. Gets to be a pain, so i made a little fixture to hold a rivet and turn down in the lathe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,252 Posts
...my error...

Forgot to mention that when using the bucking bar on the M2HB...same set as used on the 1917/1919's...I put a couple pieces of steel between the bars to accomodate the extra width of the M2HB. Usually a couple pieces of the 1919 rt. side plate remnent that was removed in the older 1919 kits. This is used doing the bottom plate/side plates. Just the bucking bar itself is good for the trunion rivets. It's important that everything be assembled and checked before any drilling or riveting is done.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,712 Posts
Unless MSG has a better rivet kit, dang near every rivet needs to be trimmed on the M2. Gets to be a pain, so i made a little fixture to hold a rivet and turn down in the lathe.
The receiver box rivets in the current set duplicate the Mil-spec. I still also offer the simple flat head rivets because most people find them easier to buck.

I was initially surprised by how much longer they are than the Bottom plate rivets used in the 1917a1/1919a4. While inspecting factory built M2s in museums I noticed that the peened heads on the outside of the Side plates were a good bit larger than those on factory built 1917a1/1919a4s - that requires additional length/material. MSG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
The receiver box rivets in the current set duplicate the Mil-spec. I still also offer the simple flat head rivets because most people find them easier to buck.

I was initially surprised by how much longer they are than the Bottom plate rivets used in the 1917a1/1919a4. While inspecting factory built M2s in museums I noticed that the peened heads on the outside of the Side plates were a good bit larger than those on factory built 1917a1/1919a4s - that requires additional length/material. MSG
Its been several years, maybe that was my issue. I do remember they were enough too long to hacksaw, not just grind. FWIW, I have a b*tch of a time with rivets sticking out two diameters or more. They want to bend over, not mash into a head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Need any parts?

I have all the parts to finish that box when its done .Let me know if you need any thing .
Complete parts minus the box and barrel or whole sets .Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Chek the threads, from time to time a run of the 50 specific Plinker's jig is done, that is how I got mine maybe 2 or 3 years ago. You can also find someone occasionaly who is selling theirs, or willing to rent it for a price.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top