Check the protrusion of the firing pin to make sure it is in spec. also what type of ammo are you using?
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So I tried Turkish and Yugo 8mm ammo both light strike I went and just bought a new made firing pin. Could it be the bolt seating into the barrel!? They both are matching in serial numbersCheck the protrusion of the firing pin to make sure it is in spec. also what type of ammo are you using?
Again, check FP protrusion.
how does the recoil spring measure to an in spec new one?
how does the recoil spring measure to an in spec new one?
Make sure your bolt stop is not badly worn. It will allow the the firing pin to be loosed too early, resulting in light strikes. You can check your headspace and bolt stop wear at the same time. The pics show the position of the stop behind the roller with the "go" gauge,(firing pin dropped) and not allowing the firing pin to drop with the "no-go" gauge installed. Regards, JH
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Some military ammo printers are extra thick. does it shoot other ammo ok?
Try modern comercial ammo first
I use the Romy 70's production or the Portuguese in mine. Avoid the 50's Yugo because it has very hard primers and the 34's do not like it.So I tried Turkish and Yugo 8mm ammo both light strike I went and just bought a new made firing pin. Could it be the bolt seating into the barrel!? They both are matching in serial numbers
Thanks for this information! I went ahead and just ordered a new bolt stop and firing pin I hope that fixes the issue!Make sure your bolt stop is not badly worn. It will allow the the firing pin to be loosed too early, resulting in light strikes. You can check your headspace and bolt stop wear at the same time. The pics show the position of the stop behind the roller with the "go" gauge,(firing pin dropped) and not allowing the firing pin to drop with the "no-go" gauge installed. Regards, JH View attachment 129847 View attachment 129848
Also check the FP trip & pin. The searing surface that holds the FP should be sharp and not chipped or rounded. The pin that secures the trip can become loose or worn and also be a source of light blows by allowing the FP to be loosed early. Regards, JH
I’ll order that also I’m about to just buy a new bolt at this point and seeAlso check the FP trip & pin. The searing surface that holds the FP should be sharp and not chipped or rounded. The pin that secures the trip can become loose or worn and also be a source of light blows by allowing the FP to be loosed early. Regards, JH
You may be really lucky the turk stuff didn't fire. I wouldn't run that crap in an enemy's guns. I've worked on a lot of nice MG's turned into junk by that ammo and even if yours is a postie the risk of damage to the gun and to you is pretty high. The brownings had issues with that ammo and they're a lot more durable than the MG34 and slower to boot. Do you really want a detonation at 1000rpm?
Check all the things the others noted. Headspace, firing pin sear, locking rollers, cams and the rest. The MG34 has a lot of problems with timing of everything and if it doesn't work there is a good chance its something like that. The barrel return spring is another thing to look at. If the barrel doesn't get pushed forward properly the bolt will not lock up with the right timing to fire properly.
Ammo is the other issue and you really need something known to work well as a standard to test against. I've never seen MG34's have issues with yugo despite the hard primers but I've seen it have problems with other stuff. The Romanian steel cased light ball is an ideal standard to judge with. If the gun won't run with that ammo there is a problem in the gun. If it does run with that ammo than your ammo is bad.
Look into the archives on any of the machinegun sites for tales of woe from turk ammo shooters. It really is as bad as it sounds.
Frank
Check all the things the others noted. Headspace, firing pin sear, locking rollers, cams and the rest. The MG34 has a lot of problems with timing of everything and if it doesn't work there is a good chance its something like that. The barrel return spring is another thing to look at. If the barrel doesn't get pushed forward properly the bolt will not lock up with the right timing to fire properly.
Ammo is the other issue and you really need something known to work well as a standard to test against. I've never seen MG34's have issues with yugo despite the hard primers but I've seen it have problems with other stuff. The Romanian steel cased light ball is an ideal standard to judge with. If the gun won't run with that ammo there is a problem in the gun. If it does run with that ammo than your ammo is bad.
Look into the archives on any of the machinegun sites for tales of woe from turk ammo shooters. It really is as bad as it sounds.
Frank
I went and ordered 500 rounds of Romanian to try that and I have a bunch of new parts coming in I’ll keep y’all PostedYou may be really lucky the turk stuff didn't fire. I wouldn't run that crap in an enemy's guns. I've worked on a lot of nice MG's turned into junk by that ammo and even if yours is a postie the risk of damage to the gun and to you is pretty high. The brownings had issues with that ammo and they're a lot more durable than the MG34 and slower to boot. Do you really want a detonation at 1000rpm?
Check all the things the others noted. Headspace, firing pin sear, locking rollers, cams and the rest. The MG34 has a lot of problems with timing of everything and if it doesn't work there is a good chance its something like that. The barrel return spring is another thing to look at. If the barrel doesn't get pushed forward properly the bolt will not lock up with the right timing to fire properly.
Ammo is the other issue and you really need something known to work well as a standard to test against. I've never seen MG34's have issues with yugo despite the hard primers but I've seen it have problems with other stuff. The Romanian steel cased light ball is an ideal standard to judge with. If the gun won't run with that ammo there is a problem in the gun. If it does run with that ammo than your ammo is bad.
Look into the archives on any of the machinegun sites for tales of woe from turk ammo shooters. It really is as bad as it sounds.
Frank
Make sure you let us know how the ammo works then we can further determine what is going on if it isn't the ammo.I went and ordered 500 rounds of Romanian to try that and I have a bunch of new parts coming in I’ll keep y’all Posted
I’ll order that also I’m about to just buy a new bolt at this point and see
Good ammo makes a huge difference in a 34 rule out that problem first. Video of me running different ammo in a 34
I second biffj…don’t run crap “russian roulette” ammo in it. Ever. Forget the fact that it can blow up a nice weapon, think of yourself…specifically you face, eyes, teeth, and fingers. That stuff is cheap for a reason . Shoot less if you have to, just do it with decent ammo. You’re worth it!
UPDATE: all parts are in and ammo (romanian) is linked. I also ordered a GO/NO GO gauge tested that with the bolt as Haakster showed everything seems fine now just to find a day in not working (I’m a cop) to go tester her out again I’ll keep y’all posted!
UPDATE! We’ll replacing the ammo worked fired with good good primer strikes. Now a new problem has come it won’t fire on FA just semi and a few times the bolt didn’t go backUPDATE: all parts are in and ammo (romanian) is linked. I also ordered a GO/NO GO gauge tested that with the bolt as Haakster showed everything seems fine now just to find a day in not working (I’m a cop) to go tester her out again I’ll keep y’all posted!
Does it function on FA with manual cycling?
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