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I'd be in for a set as long as some extras are included! If I don't have to countersink the holes, that would be great.

eta: A little longer wouldn't hurt either!
 

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M2/M3 rivets

I Would Be In For A Set Also , Just Bought A M3 Kit And Slowly Will Buy The Rest To Build A M2hb. I Could Use Extras Also. Would This Rivet Set Include Every Rivet Required For A Semi Build ?
 

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I've never butted into anyones thread but your "sub standard" comment pretty well chaps my ass. I could care less your selling rivet sets too but you could keep your rude rude comments to yourself. I thought we were a little more civil than that on this board. I've sold over 70 sets so far and have not had one complaint. Go ahead and make the rivets to mil spec length and they will be too short. Most of these kits have had the rivets drilled out plus part of the plate while doing this. This will require more length to fill the wallored out hole. You will notice this especially in the long trunnion rivets.
 

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i really dont want to get into a pissin match here but i will reply to what blake said at the end. YES mil spec rivets are great if none of the holes have been rat screwed when demilled.however i fight this issue on almost every 1919 build. i love black bear rivets but i still have to custom make some of the rivets because of egg shaped holes,enlarged holes etc. i also use a press which you cannot press the trunion rivets and fill the counter sinks correctly. the 4 long rivets on the 1919 need to be .100 longer period. and the bottom plate rivets could be another .050 longer. the rear top plate rivets are so perfect you could not ask for a more perfect length.and the rear cart stop rivet is perfect too.jusy my .02 and experience......
 

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60 degree Rivets !!

Will take all the rivets you will have availiable Give me a PM !
 

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shootnstar said:
...how about we talk about why Browning used 60 degree rivets in his designs instead of 90 degree.......
In case you were unaware, John Browning thought that the bottom plate of the 1917 needed no rivets at all. Until bottom plates and side plates were cracking on significant numbers of guns during the War and the Ordnance Dept had to develop a fix. It was at the Ordnance Dept, years later, that the stirrup bottom plate was developed. Colt, meanwhile, had already redesigned the bottom of the receiver to include small rivets, though not 60 degree. See the 1928 water cooled, for example.

Even John Browning wasn't perfect. I can't say that he didn't use 60s on the trunnion and top plate, but that is impossible to know unless it is specified in the patents. All I know for sure is that the Ordnance Dept specified 60 degree at some point. FWIW.
 

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I need some rivets that start soft as lead and then overnight turn strong as steel and I need them for both the 1919A4 and the m2HB.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's cool Nathan. Couple of questions for you. You mention using some rivets from original govt contractors, Do you prefer mil-spec 60 degree rivets in your builds or others? In reference to never seeing a good weld on the military castings, why do some .50BMG builders weld the receiver components together after riveting? Will these welds crack or cause the castings to crack?
It may have been before your time, but there were some horrible problems with bad builds from Group Industries back in the late 1980's, before the semi-auto belt-feds came around. Several of those guns had catastrophic failures.
I'm always interested in learning more about different ways .50BMG's are assembled for the commercial market, so I appreciate you sharing your knowledge here for everyone to learn from. I've always wondered about the posting on TNW's site about the "garage builders", do you have any insight on that? Thanks in advance for answering.
 
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