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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy folks. I recently bought one of the rustiest registered MG08/15s in the world from Rock Island Auctions. It looks like absolute hell, but when I saw the listing it was like watching one of those ASPCA commercials with the one-eyed puppies and Sarah McLachlan in the background, and I ended up taking a gamble in hopes of bringing the old gal back from the dead.
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I was expecting the restoration process to basically boil down to machining a new action, component by component, but when I went to see the gun at my class 3 dealer, I was amazed at how clean the thing is on the inside.
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All major components are present and intact. The lock functions smoothly when worked by hand. The mainspring (which I expected to be missing) was merely sitting loose under its cover, and was quickly reinstalled. Aside from the trigger spring, the gun seems (after a VERY cursory inspection) very close to being fully functional. If a more thorough inspection doesn't reveal any glaring problems, I think all that will be needed for a test fire will be a good cleaning and a headspace check.

That said, I was alarmed to see that someone has tried to ... well, not refinish the gun, but pretty it up somehow. A blue colored substance was applied to some or all of the gun (you can see some in the bottom of the receiver). It looks alot like layout fluid and acetone will remove it, but who knows. On other areas, like the water jacket, it is thick enough to look like dark paint, but so far I've only cleaned up the rear sight to know what's underneath (it straightened out just fine). That is disconcerting because there is also a bit of residual sandblasting sand in the nooks and crannies. Some fool tried at bare minimum to sandblast the inside of the water jacket through the fill hole. Hopefully he stopped there and didn't do too much damage to the exterior. It was unclear in the available light how much sandblasting might have been done inside the receiver. I am crossing my fingers that no critical surfaces were affected, but we'll see. I'll know more when I get it home and can begin a serious cleaning and rust conservation.

Regardless of any damage some idiot may have caused, I am confidant that I can get the old gal running again. There are alot of things I'll need help with though, as this is my first foray into the full-auto world. Any advice and insights would be greatly appreciated. I don't know if there are any common mechanical issues I should be looking for, or even if there are any particular ammo loads that Maxims like or don't like.

I also need some help with a few missing parts that will most likely have to be fabricated. I'm far from a trained machinist, but I do have a lathe and CNC mill. Given enough time and profanity, I can make just about anything. For starters, I need measurements on the rear sight leaf spring, as that is completely missing. I'm also hoping to modify my feeder (loader, whatever) to have the option to run MG34 belts, as the Germans did between wars. Forgotten Weapons did a video on one such Maxim. If anyone knows where such a modified feeder might be found and measured, I'd be happy to draw up a set of prints and post them here. I also might try to upgrade my gun to a quick-detach buttstock. We'll see.

Well, that's what I've gotten myself into. Again, any advice would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Evaporust is great stuff, but I don't trust it for precision parts. Contrary to what the label says, it definitely starts attacking the base metal once the rust is gone, albeit very slowly (soak an old bolt for a few days if you doubt this). I'll be boiling and carding the rust off. Mark Novak has some great youtube videos on the subject if you've never heard of it.
 

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There are no missing parts. Outside rust will not inhibit it from functioning correctly.

I use standard motor oil on the sliding / contact surfaces and my MG 08/15 runs like a top.

I see you are missing Kilogram scale on the mainspring housing. If you have fishing portable scale, hook one loop around coking handle and lift it up. When you see 4.5 kilo on the scale then you have excellent starting point to shoot. Before you reach that number keep winding that spring tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The scale plate was actually still in there rattling around with the mainspring. The pointer is missing, but that's an easy fix. Thanks for the tip on the fishing scale. The spring is a somewhat corroded and there's no telling if it's still full strength.
 

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Congratulations! My dealer sees me about every week during my conjugal visits with my Vickers as I wait for the stamp. I’ve used the time to become intimately familiar with every part of the gun (invaluable information and I’ve been guided by Toolman and Mike Duke all the way). Best of luck on the restoration.
 

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I9
There are no missing parts. Outside rust will not inhibit it from functioning correctly.

I use standard motor oil on the sliding / contact surfaces and my MG 08/15 runs like a top.

I see you are missing Kilogram scale on the mainspring housing. If you have fishing portable scale, hook one loop around coking handle and lift it up. When you see 4.5 kilo on the scale then you have excellent starting point to shoot. Before you reach that number keep winding that spring tighter.
What's a 08/15 go for now days?
 

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08/15 will go between 7,500 and 12,000

and in very rare cases, much much more.
I think the cost in the last few years has become more dependent on the included accessories than the gun itself. An 08/15 with an original steam port, drum w/bracket, sling, booster and hose w/watercan will bring the same if not more than an MG08 lately.
 

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Very true what fellas said about accessories.

I am a huge fan of history, I tend to overpay.

However I always think what MG 08/15 will be worth 30 years from now?

Also, if I own one for next 30 years and go out to the range with it and enjoy it, bring home clean it and hang it up on my wall to see every morning when I wake up, then to me its a hobby worth having.

In comparison I could buy a motorcycle, boat, muscle car, and I would have to live in the garage to see it, and I wouldnt always be able to use it. Besides taxes and insurance would add up quick, not to mention mechanical breakdowns and the cost of regular maintenance.
 

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Howdy folks. I recently bought one of the rustiest registered MG08/15s in the world from Rock Island Auctions. It looks like absolute hell,

... That is disconcerting because there is also a bit of residual sandblasting sand in the nooks and crannies. Some fool tried at bare minimum to sandblast the inside of the water jacket through the fill hole. Hopefully he stopped there and didn't do too much damage to the exterior. .....more when I get it home and can begin a serious cleaning and rust conservation.

Regardless of any damage some idiot may have caused, I am confidant that I can get the old gal running again. There are alot of things I'll need help with though, as this is my first foray into the full-auto world. Any advice and insights would be greatly appreciated. I don't know if there are any common mechanical issues I should be looking for, or even if there are any particular ammo loads that Maxims like or don't like.

I also need some help with a few missing parts that will most likely have to be fabricated. I'm far from a trained machinist, but I do have a lathe and CNC mill. Given enough time and profanity, I can make just about anything. For starters, I need measurements on the rear sight leaf spring, as that is completely missing. I'm also hoping to modify my feeder (loader, whatever) to have the option to run MG34 belts, as the Germans did between wars. Forgotten Weapons did a video on one such Maxim. If anyone knows where such a modified feeder might be found and measured, I'd be happy to draw up a set of prints and post them here. I also might try to upgrade my gun to a quick-detach buttstock. We'll see.
Congratulations on the new gun!

It does not look to bad for 100+ years old. Are you going to restore it or leave it? You are probably at the point of a reblue and paint for the waterjacket without loss in value. If there was rust, blasting is the only real way to get rid of it on this scale. I might very well blast it and reblue. However not all blasting is the same and I am talking just enough to take off the surface rust, not remove metal.

I can see, you need a new butt stock, Bipod and steam port cover. I probably have a 08/15 trigger spring if you need one. I might have a broken rear sight spring too. You are also missing the rollers on the cocking lever. Something is odd on the rear bottom pin. The front trigger screw is not correct. Missine wood off the waterjacket plug.

How matching is the gun? How does the top cover look? If its not matching, it might be just worth getting a pretty new top cover. Maybe find a new parts kit and swap it on, then get just the receiver box reblued and painted. It all depends on what you want...

Having had the question many times... I highly suggest you give up now on converting the feedblock for MG34 belts. Its a waste of time, it will never happen. I suggest Schwarzlose belts or Turk AL Belts. Or you break down and buy a German loader and run Vickers belts. Or you do a 7.62 conversion and use PKM belts. No one ever actually converts the Feedblocks, NEVER... I even made a video to explain the differences as people think it will be easy to do:
Same with the QD buttstock. That is a very rare option and you will never find the parts to do it. It would not be correct for your gun anyway.

IMO, this is one of those guns where you decide what you are going to do with it. Leave it as is and fix/replace parts. Or recondition the shell and find a nice parts kit to put on the shell. Or reblue it all and repaint the jacket. A lot of this would depend on how much is matching, to me. The internals look nice and it looks like it will shoot fine.

If you want to email me your email and phone I will be happy to talk more. [email protected]
 

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Great vid! Interesting writing on the side of the receiver- what’s it all say?
Its starts by IDing the gun. It then goes on to day how it was captured. The gun was holding back the division and a sargeant and lieutenant attacked the position and captured the gun but the LT was badly wounded. The SGT was able to haul the gun and LT back to friendly lines. It was later discovered that their Waitress was the LT's wife.

I am fairly sure this gun was displayed post capture by the GIs. I am 99% sure they added the camo and the story at that time. The camo is not German. Of course it would be an early con-job but the way the story is written does not seem like what someone faking it would say as its got an odd twist at the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Congratulations on the new gun!

It does not look to bad for 100+ years old. Are you going to restore it or leave it? You are probably at the point of a reblue and paint for the waterjacket without loss in value. If there was rust, blasting is the only real way to get rid of it on this scale. I might very well blast it and reblue. However not all blasting is the same and I am talking just enough to take off the surface rust, not remove metal.

I can see, you need a new butt stock, Bipod and steam port cover. I probably have a 08/15 trigger spring if you need one. I might have a broken rear sight spring too. You are also missing the rollers on the cocking lever. Something is odd on the rear bottom pin. The front trigger screw is not correct. Missine wood off the waterjacket plug.

How matching is the gun? How does the top cover look? If its not matching, it might be just worth getting a pretty new top cover. Maybe find a new parts kit and swap it on, then get just the receiver box reblued and painted. It all depends on what you want...

Having had the question many times... I highly suggest you give up now on converting the feedblock for MG34 belts. Its a waste of time, it will never happen. I suggest Schwarzlose belts or Turk AL Belts. Or you break down and buy a German loader and run Vickers belts. Or you do a 7.62 conversion and use PKM belts. No one ever actually converts the Feedblocks, NEVER... I even made a video to explain the differences as people think it will be easy to do:
Same with the QD buttstock. That is a very rare option and you will never find the parts to do it. It would not be correct for your gun anyway.

IMO, this is one of those guns where you decide what you are going to do with it. Leave it as is and fix/replace parts. Or recondition the shell and find a nice parts kit to put on the shell. Or reblue it all and repaint the jacket. A lot of this would depend on how much is matching, to me. The internals look nice and it looks like it will shoot fine.

If you want to email me your email and phone I will be happy to talk more. [email protected]
Great video, IMBLITZVT!
Every exterior surface is rusted to the point of pitting, so any original value there is pretty much toast. I figure my options are wide open as far as refinishing, but I plan to leave it pretty much as-is after a thorough conservation. I'll have the time to boil the bejeezus out of it while I'm working on other things.

I may try a repair on the buttstock for the sake of originality, but I have a chunk of walnut that might just be big enough for a replacement. The bipod and steam fitting are another story. I could fabricate both, but they likely wouldn't look too original, and I'd rather just buy them at any rate. Same goes for a drum, although I'll probably end up making a drum bracket myself. I can find or make a trigger spring easily enough, but I'd happily take you up on that broken rear sight spring to have a template for making a new one. I'll need a better explanation of the rollers I'm missing, and there are a few little parts here and there that were obviously replacements (that trigger screw is a blasted phillips).

Every part I could find with a legible number seemed to be matching, although the top cover is so rusted as to be nearly illegible. Luckily, said top cover appears to work fine and isn't bent as I feared. The cover latch was rusted stuck and wouldn't stay closed. Some oil and a small nylon hammer got it moving again, and it now latches nicely.

Your video was extremely helpful! Here's a rough model of the switch block that I worked up from what I could see. Dimensions are very approximate. I can only assume there's a ball detent in the feeder block. I should be able to machine one in two operations if I make an appropriate set of soft jaws. As soon as I can get some firm dimensions, I'll post a set of detailed blueprints.
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Pocket milling the feeder block itself should be even simpler, only one operation and some file work to square up the corners. Actually, I think that the extended feed lever will be the trickiest part to make due to its wonky shape. I'm just a country boy in a home shop, but I'm not your average country boy, and it's not your average shop. The mill on the left is named Charlie, and he's a much better machinist than I am.
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I greatly appreciate the insights, IMBLITZVT. I'll certainly shoot you an email. Thank you for the opportunity to pick your brain!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, it's official. I've been Bubba'd. I was able to bring home a few loose parts, including the feed block and booster. Under a good worklight, parts that had appeared to be coated in dark rust suddenly looked very amiss.
Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


A quick soak in acetone confirmed my fears.
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The parts (and likely the entire gun) have been completely sandblasted and then coated in Dykem layout fluid, I kid you not. On the one hand, this is infuriating. I was hoping to leave the gun essentially as I found it (after a thorough conservation) because I feel that the rust and pitting is a part of the gun's history, but some idiot has robbed me of the opportunity. On the other hand, I now find myself in a situation where nothing I might decide to do at this point can damage the finish or value any further, so I guess I'm free to do whatever I please. It's a bit liberating.
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A full rust conversion will still be necessary, but I might even decide to repaint the water jacket now. If anyone happens to know who the fool of a previous owner was, for Pete's sake don't tell me. I don't want to know. Just inform him that I hope his rectum grows shut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well, after a 412 day wait, I've finally got her home. After a whole lot of cleaning and de-crustification I was able to run 150 rounds through it without a hiccup (although I had to help pull the belt along a bit; first-timer issues)
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Toolman and IMBLITZVT were instrumental in getting her back to a state of near-completion. I immediately got sick of the bipod spikes, and since the new bipod is as pitted and beat up as the gun, I said to hell with the spikes and went out to the shop.
Wood Gas Household hardware Grass Nickel

I made some threaded sockets and ordered some swivel machinery feet from McMaster, along with some 1/2" hex bar.
Gas Nickel Household hardware Engineering Machine

I couldn't figure out a way to reuse all four rivet holes, so the new ones only have three (the third one is down in the threaded hole). I still have a little work to do cleaning up the unused holes that I welded up, but I'm pleased with how it's turning out.
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Now I can have my cake and eat it too. Next up: making a simple interwar-style drum bracket, and then converting a spare feedblock to run MG-34 belts. So far, so good.
 

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It is great to see that you got this 08/15 up and running! It has been a long time since your last post and, from time-to-time, I had thought about your gun and was curious as to what might have become of the project. I remember this particular gun back when it went through Rock Island Auctions and had always wondered what could be done with it. After all, it was (is) a registered C&R NFA item, but was in terrible shape when offered by RIA. You have really done a fantastic job of making the best out of what you had to work with. Again, it is great to see that the gun is back up and running and has found a good home.
 
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