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I have accumulated all the components to assemble a AR 15 style rifle w/more than a few in duplicate.

Now.....I need someone at a professional level who can put the front site on a naked barrel....as I understand the front site/gas port assembly takes tapered pins. The alignment between the front site & the stud at the chamber end must be correct.

PJH
 

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If no one wants to take that job on here, may I recommend some one. Tonyscustomuppers.com he has a good turn around time. ;)
I have accumulated all the components to assemble a AR 15 style rifle w/more than a few in duplicate.

Now.....I need someone at a professional level who can put the front site on a naked barrel....as I understand the front site/gas port assembly takes tapered pins. The alignment between the front site & the stud at the chamber end must be correct.

PJH
 

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I have accumulated all the components to assemble a AR 15 style rifle w/more than a few in duplicate.

Now.....I need someone at a professional level who can put the front site on a naked barrel....as I understand the front site/gas port assembly takes tapered pins. The alignment between the front site & the stud at the chamber end must be correct.

PJH
heckinohio--

Actually, you do not require the two pins to retain the FSB. If the barrel and FSB are not drilled you can use Loctite 680 to secure the FSB to the barrel. Bushmaster used this Loctite formula on their Service Rifles. I found about this formula when I had to replace a barrel for a very dear friend. When I first looked at his barrel there was no pins or set screws! I had to call Remington who now owns Bushmaster to find out how to remove the FSB from the worn out barrel. Remington indicated that Bushmaster had used Loctite 680 on the FSB. Being a tradition guy I could not believe the Loctite would be that strong but it is. Super high heat will only remove it. So if you use the Loctite 680 to secure the FSB you have to make doubly sure you do the job right once!!

Its just a suggestion.

--fjruple
 

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So what I gather Remington said was shoot it hot and it slides off? Maybe Bushmaster had a special clearance bin, labeled suck.
heckinohio--

Actually, you do not require the two pins to retain the FSB. If the barrel and FSB are not drilled you can use Loctite 680 to secure the FSB to the barrel. Bushmaster used this Loctite formula on their Service Rifles. I found about this formula when I had to replace a barrel for a very dear friend. When I first looked at his barrel there was no pins or set screws! I had to call Remington who now owns Bushmaster to find out how to remove the FSB from the worn out barrel. Remington indicated that Bushmaster had used Loctite 680 on the FSB. Being a tradition guy I could not believe the Loctite would be that strong but it is. Super high heat will only remove it. So if you use the Loctite 680 to secure the FSB you have to make doubly sure you do the job right once!!

Its just a suggestion.

--fjruple
 

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Low profile front sight block

Another option I would suggest is a low profile front sight gas block with rails, no need to tap for sight pins. Provides a great mounting place for a flashlight or laser. You give up the bayonet option, but I doubt that you want the enemy closer than rifle range anyway.
 

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Won't be "correct" but you can also use plain roll pins if you're working with a new front sight base. If going with taper pins, use a 2/0 reamer and work up to the pins being seated to correct depth - easy to over do it. A little more difficult to install a drilled FSB but it can be done. A small endmill can get you a flat on the barrel to drill into. Not sure I'd want to just Loctite it on but might be an easy way to keep it held in place while drilling.
 

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I would be concerned that the Loctite would migrate into the gas port hole and plug it up. I imagine you could blow a little compressed air down the barrel to blow out the gas port to make sure it didn't plug up.
 

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I would be concerned that the Loctite would migrate into the gas port hole and plug it up. I imagine you could blow a little compressed air down the barrel to blow out the gas port to make sure it didn't plug up.
pdembek--

Using Loctite 680 you have to be very careful. Regardless what other folks say about the Loctite 680 just getting it "hot" to come off, it will not get the FSB off. This Loctite is designed for extreme high temperatures such as bearings and high temperatures in a running engine. To get a FSB off a shot-out barrel I had to almost get the barrel to almost 500 degrees F to remove the FSB. You have to be absolutely make sure the FSB is properly aligned with the barrel and upper receiver before you use it. You do have 4-5 minutes before the Loctite 680 sets up. Once it sets and you have to make changes your SOL. If you have to heat the barrel to about 250 degrees Celsius (482 degrees F) move it you will take the temper out of the barrel and create a weak spot. Loctite 680 is also like welding but without the heat. Its not an Elmer's glue.

Here's a link to the technical specification: http://www.loctite.co.th/tht/content_data/327273_UPGRADE680EN.pdf

Cheers

--FJR
 

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PJ,

if you need an AR upper stuck together just let me know... its just "lego-work" ... there's really nothing to them.

now if you have some fancy smancy uber set up? then it gets just a touch harder... but its still easy to do.

im getting the shop set back up now.. but should be able to do it for you this weekend.

sk
 
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