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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting this post to document the transformation of the stock 1918a3 semiauto bar from korean war type apperance, to WWII appearance, as well as aquisition of doodads ect im gathering to do my b.a.r. display when we do our living history out at the springfield armory historic site. Ill be adding to this soon, as Ill need to start taking pics ect of before and after what i change out, plus tools, accesories ect I gather on this endeavor. So bear with me as this will be a few update endeavor


Starting off with it just opened from the box 3 years ago





i got to gather the pics of the 3 stocks I went through for the first step of "defarbing" soo those will be up soon.

Only other thing can add right this sec, is fedex dropped off these goodies yesterday. Neeed to find someone with a bead/sand blaster so can refinish the can with proper markings for "machine rifle ammunition chest M1" allready have the proper felt material, and the wood dividers made out of oak.







well stay tuned
 

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Last time I bought, Numrich had correct gas cylinders and keys. They didn't have any solid tops for my 1918 Winchester but the WWII ones they have are the tits. J
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Already got the key type regulator, just need to modify vent holes for semi auto use. Gun Is now as close to wwii appearance as possible. I've seen hundreds of write ups on how to get it to look proper wwii, but don't recall much in picture dept. So making this thread as a visual aid so newbies can see the visual differences if they want to achieve a wwii look over the Korean war factory look.
 

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Embalmer-

What's your ultimate goal as far as look? Modernized A2? NESA production?

Have you seen my series on defarbing the BAR?

http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARHandle/
http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARGas/
http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARBipod/
http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARStocks2/index.html
http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARStocks/index.html

I could probably write a piece on rear sights and handguards as well, not sure if there is enough interest.
 

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cool, my only gripe with mine is the sling it came with .







How on earth did you get the buttstock off????? is there a special tool or should i just keep searching for a super wide flat tip?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Mod #1 the bolt. I picked up a NOS USGI bolt assembly, as I read that if the bolt was in "satin" finish was probably a swedish bar bolt. Took mine out, and discoved was a ROT usgi bolt. know is post WWII, but markings arent seen while in gun, so will suffice. Ill keep the other bolt as a spare, as the one in gun is already headspaced to gun.

Original bolt, in satin OOW finish.



Quick stop at gunshop down road, got some birchwood casey gun blue, and went to town on it. Was my first attempt at bluing, so was not perfect. couple inner portions didnt really take to the solution. overall gave it an 85% on appearance. FAR better than the silver bolt look.



 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mod #2 the buttstock. I love the look of the american walnut, on iron firearms. So without hesitation that was the model I chose.

after some research, realized the buttstock was a dead giveaway to being incorrect for WWII. The main giveaway is the rear sling swivel. short and straight. Obvious korean war era



So after some searching, I finally got this 1943 made firestone bakelite stock. Afterwards, had heck of a time finding the sling swivel to match the cutout profile.







This stayed on my gun for about a year. I searched high and low for an original walnut stock in the WWII profile, but was like finding hens teeth. One day happened to be browsing the bmgparts.com site, and saw he stocked the WWII 1918A2 profile walnut stocks. I leaped at it. had to drill the holes for the sling swivel screws, and do some minor wood removal to get the buttplate to fit properly so could be screwed on. HUGE difference in appearance.





 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cool, my only gripe with mine is the sling it came with .







How on earth did you get the buttstock off????? is there a special tool or should i just keep searching for a super wide flat tip?
There was a vendor on Ebay that sold a nice leather sling for it, for less than $30. had it on my B.A.R. for years now, and looks good (vender was something mountain supply)

as for taking it off, used a 1/8 thick blade screw driver, that was maybe 1/2 inch wide. wasnt as big as buffer screw, but being careful got the screw off. the stock needed a few taps with a mallet to get off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Noticable mod #3 the gas regulator.

as we know, from OOW they come with a korean war screw type adjustable gas regulator. Obviously, if going for WWII, this wont work.





I went out and searched for a WWII key lock regulator. before doing so, make sure your gas tube has the 3 notches for the regulator key to lock into. OOW used both wwii type, and korean war type that had the notches machined out. Also the vent holes will need to be drilled. I havent done so just yet on mine, but am looking into sizes needed to do it.

 

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Embalmer-

What's your ultimate goal as far as look? Modernized A2? NESA production?

Have you seen my series on defarbing the BAR?

http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARHandle/
http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARGas/
http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARBipod/
http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARStocks2/index.html
http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARStocks/index.html

I could probably write a piece on rear sights and handguards as well, not sure if there is enough interest.
Would love to see you do a piece on rear sights and handguards !
 

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I promised to get you the sizes , then forgot :( .

Your piston should be 0.495 to 0.496 in OD . Reject at 0.494 .
Your regulator ID should be 0.500 to 0.501 . Reject at 0.503 .
With only 0.0025 clearance allowed around the piston , you can see why the BAR man landed , waded ashore , found cover , stripped his gun , cleaned it , reassembled , and attacked.

If the regulator is good , then you need to open the three ports from 0.055 / 0.063 / 0.0725 up to 0.076 / 0.084 / 0.093 to overcome the hammer spring in the semi auto . I would do this in two steps . First I'd open port #2 to 0.076 and #3 to 0.084 . Your clean and lubed semi will prob'ly function on your #3 port now . As it wears in , it will prob'ly start to work at your new #2 port more and more . If your new gun works at 0.076 right off the bat ( really unheard of ) you could now open the #1 port up a little at at time till it just starts to want to function and leave it there . This would give you the option to use 180 gr loads if needed . You could also try them out on blanks , too.
The point is , I did these sizes , and I only shoot 150gr milspec ammo . I had to be on port #2 when new and now use port #1 to start . Never did have to use #3 ( 0.093 ) . Even now , it will not work with a USGI regulator set to #3 ( 0.0725 ) , just not enough gas.

Chris
 

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i got a proper flathead screwdriver and ... the stock screw turned maybe 1/2 turn so far :rofl:





What is the original finish on OOW's Bolts?? Looking at mine tonight and it looks like it has some coating on it.
 

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Starting this post to document the transformation of the stock 1918a3 semiauto bar from korean war type apperance, to WWII appearance, as well as aquisition of doodads ect im gathering to do my b.a.r. display when we do our living history out at the springfield armory historic site. Ill be adding to this soon, as Ill need to start taking pics ect of before and after what i change out, plus tools, accesories ect I gather on this endeavor. So bear with me as this will be a few update endeavor


Starting off with it just opened from the box 3 years ago





i got to gather the pics of the 3 stocks I went through for the first step of "defarbing" soo those will be up soon.

Only other thing can add right this sec, is fedex dropped off these goodies yesterday. Neeed to find someone with a bead/sand blaster so can refinish the can with proper markings for "machine rifle ammunition chest M1" allready have the proper felt material, and the wood dividers made out of oak.







well stay tuned
The markings of the Machine Rifle Ammunition box is "MACH RIFLE AMM. CHEST M1 D3920" Picture attached if it helps.


Box Rectangle Packaging and labeling
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Actually was about to post that I may have stumbled onto an unissued and complete bar m1 chest, packed away on a shelf in a garage in nh. Taking a trip up later to check it out.

Just bead blasted the m1a1 chest. If the other chest going to look at turns out to be my holy grail, I'll refinish and remark other can with same markings it had, and use to display with my Saginaw 1919
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well after a year searching, landed an original bar mag chest. I'll get pics of it when I get the goop off from army tape used for long term storage.

Pics are of one almost same condition.





 

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Nice score Matt :thumbup: that should really help complete the BAR package quite nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's really becoming an addiction, that's aging up quick that's for sure. Thankfully picked up a bandolier for it, for $5 cause guy didn't know what was to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
And the collection as it stands thus far





Original 1943 dated field manual, and expert B.A.R. qualification badge



Original tool kit, with case, including spare bolt, gas regulator, flash hider/ bipod support



original 1942 D.M. shoe co bar belt and suspenders, 1943 m3 fighting knife in m8 scabbard, 1918 canteen. first aid pouch and canteen pouch repro.



Original 1918 Bar bandolier (BAR entered WWI too late, and they had thousands of these never issues. They were issued in WWII, and due to quantity no new ones were made)


Got Mag's? (still another 30 in a box in safe) restored M1A1 can standing in for the M1 Mag can thats in proccess of being cleaned up



last pic.




if anyone else has one of these, and collects stuff for them like I do,please share pics here. My favorite firearm of WWII,
 

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Only have the one BAR but I do like collecting accessories. Below is a list of the M1937 belts I have collected over the past few years, so far I have not identified any other contractors for these. All are in new condition.

BOYT 1941
BOYT 1941/1942 (new belt, sections for each year on belt)
BOYT 1943
Charles F. Clark, Inc. 1942
D. M. Shoe Co. 1942
D. M. Shoe Co. 1942 (2 tone, flaps and pockets different OD shades)
S.FROEHLICH & CO. 1941
S.FROEHLICH & CO. 1942
 
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