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No, it doesn't have to be stainless if you don't mind parking the tank.

Carry On!
Gary
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And you don't want galvanized and plastic/fiberglass will be pretty tough to get to/keep at temp w/o expensive immersion heaters. For small parts a ceramic crock pot or pyrex, etc can be used. Stainless steam table pans are bigger and can be had cheap on ebay but if you're doing any length you'll want a decent pan. This guy is fairly cheap and does custom sizes.

http://stainlesssteelcreations.net/parkerizing-products.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok sounds good, I'm gonna make one out of ol cold rolled got plenty of that laying around and brake so hope I can wave the magic wand and poof it's there!
Would do stainless a hate to buy a sheet and use a 1/2-1/3 of it then it lay around!!! It $$$$


Thanks!!!!
 

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Everyone here is correct when they say that a park tank doesn't have to be stainless, but there are several reasons why they usually are. Stainless doesn't react to park solution and mild cold rolled does. So why does this matter? First, the reaction (bubbles) you get when parkerizing actually "eats" away at the piece being parked. That's why you are not supposed to leave items in the park solution for more than 5-6 minutes. I had an ak trunnion that was accidentally left in for about 12 minutes and it was junk afterwards because it had eaten enough away that the barrel would fall into trunnion loosely instead of a press fit as it was during pre-assembly. Will your tank be eaten away after a few uses? No but it will degrade over multiple uses. Second, your park solution will degrade much faster because it is parking the inside of the tank and the parts, not just the parts. Again, not a big deal if you are doing an occasional park job, but something to think about. Third, and probably most important, is the fact that once the inside of the tank is parked you will have to oil it to keep it from rusting. The great thing about a parked finish is that once it's oiled it is very hard to get the oil out. The oil is what makes it inhibit rust not the park itself. So once the inside of the tank is oiled the only practical way to remove the oil (to keep from contaminating your next park job) is to blast it clean and degrease. Again, not the most practical thing to do each time you want to park something. So does it have to be stainless? No, but stainless is recommended for good reason.
 

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My tank does not bubble anymore since the first use. Does not rust either, I just rinse it out. I've got about 15 hours of use on it with no noticeable wear. Maybe it's charmed?:dunno:
 

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Didn't mean to offend you porteroden, merely trying to explain to fxr1969 why stainless is recommended. He did ask why. Obviously there are several different things that will work, some just better than others. This reflects on many aspects of gun smithing, some things work, some things work better and/or get better results, sometimes with more effort, sometimes with less. Take for example, riveting. One could insert a rivet, back it with a chunk of metal and beat it to a pulp with a hammer and it would set and "work" as a rivet and hold things together. It would not look as good as using a rivet tool, proper setup, and a little time. Both "work" but one seems to be the better way to go. Here is a direct quote from brownells instructions for their parkerizing solution. " Do not use the Brownells Black Iron Bluing Tank, because the tank itself will be Parkerized, dramatically shortening the Parkerizing Solution life and building up a very undesirable and excessive amount of sludge." We all know it will "work" but doesn't seem to be the best option, that's all I'm trying to say. Hope we can be friends, as I enjoy the site and always learn something from vast amount of knowledge and experience found here.
 

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My tank does not bubble anymore since the first use. Does not rust either, I just rinse it out. I've got about 15 hours of use on it with no noticeable wear. Maybe it's charmed?:dunno:
Brownells tanks are black iron and are approved for parking .Thats why they do not rust.
 

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I bought a long, slender stainless steel tub from a local restaurant supply shop. They have lots of used stuff to pick from. I paid less than 20 bucks for my tank.
 

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Didn't mean to offend you porteroden, merely trying to explain to fxr1969 why stainless is recommended. He did ask why. Obviously there are several different things that will work, some just better than others. This reflects on many aspects of gun smithing, some things work, some things work better and/or get better results, sometimes with more effort, sometimes with less. Take for example, riveting. One could insert a rivet, back it with a chunk of metal and beat it to a pulp with a hammer and it would set and "work" as a rivet and hold things together. It would not look as good as using a rivet tool, proper setup, and a little time. Both "work" but one seems to be the better way to go. Here is a direct quote from brownells instructions for their parkerizing solution. " Do not use the Brownells Black Iron Bluing Tank, because the tank itself will be Parkerized, dramatically shortening the Parkerizing Solution life and building up a very undesirable and excessive amount of sludge." We all know it will "work" but doesn't seem to be the best option, that's all I'm trying to say. Hope we can be friends, as I enjoy the site and always learn something from vast amount of knowledge and experience found here.
I'm not offended, theweasel confirmed it was charmed, he's a smart guy and knows his stuff. But you did go make me check my tank over good, making me more paranoid than normal.:tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Gonna try and start on the tank (homemade) tomorrow,any particular size??
Was think 30inch L 8-10 w. 8-10 deep!
Any input! Will post pictures if I can remember how!
 

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The size of tank is obviously dependent on what you have to park. You will have to decide what will work best for your needs today and in the future. Having several tanks of differing size is best, as the amount of park solution increases greatly with larger tanks. Take your suggested size of 30"L x 10" W x 10"H for example. You won't be filling your tank to the top, but for this example let's assume you are. By shortening your tank from 30" long to 20" long it would take 4.32 gallons less to fill it. That's a lot of extra solution to mix and store until it's next use. Let's say you want to park an ak receiver. You will need what, 3 inches (you always want to suspend your parts if possible and not lay them on the bottom) of solution in your tank? 3 inches of solution in a 30"x10"x10" tank equates to 3.89 gallons of solution. The same 3 inches in say a 18"x6"x6" tank equates to only 1.4 gallons. Point being, bigger is not alway better or practical.
 

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Whatever material you use, don't forget to buy or make a decent fitting lid for it. An open top tank takes forever and a week to get up to op. temps.

ScottD has the right idea as far as semi cheap, ready to go tanks. Used restaurant supply outlets are great places to know about. They even have goodies for upscale camping now and then too.

I still have the half assed tank I parked my rebuilt Sterling smg in. Seriously, picture a stainless tank that was just a bit too shallow. Then, some nut added four strips of three inch wide, 1/4" PLYWOOD to the top of the tank for a height extension, then slathered the whole top end with caulk. Not just the seams, but ALL the wood surfaces on the inside. Let it dry for a couple days.

Hey, I only needed it to work ONCE. It did fine.

Did I mention Parking was easier and simpler than it sounds? :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Glad I asked! The lid thing I never thought of just like cooking a crab boil heat up better with a lid
Nothing any better that waiting on stuff to boil! And I knew there would be a volume difference but not that much should have listened in math class !!!!

Thanks again maybe one day I can (repay) some knowledge or help out some on here!!!!!!!! If so don't hesitate!!!
 
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