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Got my park concentrate today from Alleghney Arsenal It dosent say anything about steel wool balls, Do I need them? This is a question for someone who has used this type before.
 

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Door Gunner said:
Got my park concentrate today from Alleghney Arsenal It dosent say anything about steel wool balls, Do I need them? This is a question for someone who has used this type before.
Nope... not needed.

mix your water and park. bring it up to 200 degrees, and start parking.
 

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whoa now. Lets start from the beginning. If you want your park to look a very light grey than go ahead and bring your temperature to 185 and start parking. If you want to cure (or whatever they call it) your parkerizing solution bring your temperature up to 185 throw a bunch of quadruple zero grade steel wool balls and there and then let it cook for a little whyle not sure how long... But it does make a difference I learned this early on in our production now after parking over 300 + firearms and using a little blackner our guns are starting to turn a little more green! The best manual on this in my opinion is the brownells manual.
 

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The question was on Alleghney Arsenal parkerizing concentrate. This concentrate does not require the use of steel wool, or any blackener additive.

The Alleghney Arsenal concentrate is what I personally use, and have had great results (and it's reusable).

I'm running another batch of parts though on Monday (today), and I can post photos if interested.

Just watch your time... pull the parts out as soon as you get the color you want (you can put the parts back in to make the darker, but you cannot make them lighter unless you start from metal in the white).

10 to 15 minutes has a nice really dark grey to light black that is a pretty good match for most 1919s.

I have yet to find a way to use the Alleghney Arsenal mixture to give the parts the green tint, but the mix is extremely easy to use and gives very good results.

Number one issue with parkerizing is parts prep... so take your time.
 

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The tutorial is based on AA stuff, never added any steel for curing to their solution. I run it about 190 to 200 degrees and 10 to 15 minutes gives you a gray color and 35 minutes a charcoal color. After you dunk your parts, take a look after only 5 minutes and you're 80% there already. I've left stuff in there for an hour and after 35 minutes you really don't see much difference. The instructions say 185 degrees, but I run mine at 190 to 200 because throwing large cold parts in there brings the temp down about 5 to 10 degrees so runnng at 190 to 200 ensures that it stays above 185 at all times. On a large tank this probably has no impact, but my tank is only 48x8x8.

Some guys report that the Brownells gives a better finish, but the AA stuff is holding up well and is not thin. On my gun I glass beaded all the internals and parked and they are about 3 years old now and the finish is still hanging in there...of course with all the wheel bearing grease I pack in there I doubt there's any metal to metal contact anyway LOL :).

I don't know whose solution Ohio Ordnance uses, but on my '28 and BAR that stuff is thick as three coats of enamel paint...good stuff.

BTW, my solution is three years old and I just add a little more concetrate once in awhile and it's good to go.

The top photo is my gun parts cooked for about 30 minutes and the second photo is a friends at about 15 to 20 minutes.

 

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A predip blackener will make the parts come out a little darker with less time in the parkerizing tank. I use a small amount of muratic acid (about a half ounce) mixed to each gallon of water for my predip.
 
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if i have a big enough tank, is it safe to park the entire external at once?
 

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Do you guys get a slime or congelled type substance in your park solution when you'r finished or somtimes before your finished? :eek:

I also noticed greenish rough spots on the bottom of my SS pan after a park job too, is that normal ?

Forgot to add I use the Alleghaney Park Kit. (I'm sure I mispelled that)
 
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