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doing it yourself???

here's plans for a propane burner

www.wildbillcody.com/images/Visio-burnerplans.pdf
www.wildbillcody.com/images/Visio-burnerplanspg1.pdf
www.wildbillcody.com/images/Visio-burnerplanspg2.pdf


You can weld the tank yourself, just make a long box say 6 by 6. I went 48 long. I used stainless as I might hot blue someday. would not be necessary for occasional use of park. A second tank for clean hot water saves time.

I've seen tanks on eBay. Also triple burner hot plates EDIT2 - here's one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Qua...989335?hash=item259f097dd7:g:zOAAAMXQ01tRULOn

EDIT links broke - I have this on my computer
 

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I picked up a 2 burner camp stove for $15 on clearance, even has legs. Two stainless steam table pans for $10 ea and a thermometer $5 at a local restaurant supply store. I use one for water and one for park. $40 and have done 4 1919's so far. (also stole one of my wife's stainless kitchen strainers for small parts!)

Brad - Big44maghunter
 

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I used the Allegheny Arsenal park solution mg34.com, and was happy with it (recommend using distilled water to mix with). Next got a cheap stainless 12qt pot for small parts (I almost went with the borrow from the wife approach, but realized it was a really bad idea). For long parts I got a stainless tank on ebay (syrupsuperpower) just search for Premium Parkerizing Tank and you will find him (really nice quality for the price). Non chlorinated brake cleaner to remove all the oil, then blasted with a glass beader with fresh beads.
 

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FWIW -- Use the brake cleaner after blasting.

Carry On!
Gary
><>
 

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FWIW -- Use the brake cleaner after blasting.
I find if you don't get the oil/grease off the parts before putting in the bead blaster it clogs up the pickup tube and the beads aren't as effective (but I do lots of car/boat parts normally). I re-sprayed the parts after blasting, and preheated/washed all the big parts in hot water.

Take care to get all the oil off the receiver, especially if you didn't completely disassemble it (cams, sight bracket). I used plenty of break clean, then soak in hot water, then more break clean, etc. You want to get to the point where nothing is seeping out of the cracks to create issues in the finish.
 

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BeltFed GURU
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I use TSP (tri sodium phosphate ) boil before i park ,the heat and TSP removes all oil even between riveted parts very effectively ! Then a distilled water boil ,then into the park .It has never failed to produce a super park job ,yes an extra step but it works flawlessly every single time :D !
 

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Western Iron SEZ: "I find if you don't get the oil/grease off the parts before putting in the bead blaster it clogs up the pickup tube and the beads aren't as effective (but I do lots of car/boat parts normally). I re-sprayed the parts after blasting, and preheated/washed all the big parts in hot water.

Take care to get all the oil off the receiver, especially if you didn't completely disassemble it (cams, sight bracket). I used plenty of break clean, then soak in hot water, then more break clean, etc. You want to get to the point where nothing is seeping out of the cracks to create issues in the finish."


Good points, all. Especially the one about boiling with TSP solution. I'll bet that saves lots of work and I'll use it in the future!


Carry On!
Gary
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BeltFed GURU
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And TSP is way cheaper than brake cleaner :eek: !
Here is one more tip ,you can use oil to "neutralize",actually Displace the phosphoric acid (Park solution ) or a short boil in baking soda ( Acid neutralizer ) will do the same thing much more effectively ,then oil it after it`s dry . Stops the ORF`s rust bleed issue :tongue: ! If you are going to expect the best park job you have to take some extra steps to get the very Best results !!!:cool:

Oh save your park solution it will work many times over ....Some of mine dried out and i just rehydrate it with distilled water and it is as good as new !

These tips are the result of Decades working in Gov contract shops :tongue: .
 

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Thats the same vendor as my ebay link. Nice tanks. I thought about the electric one but had access to the grill. I did get the cover though. Covering helps get the temp up but u could use any scrap metal.
 

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I had some success using a crock-pot. Just for giggles I un-rusted a gun and parked it using stuff scrounged from around the house and a trip to Lowe's. It worked, but I needed a bigger crock pot :D
 

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And TSP is way cheaper than brake cleaner :eek: !
Here is one more tip ,you can use oil to "neutralize",actually Displace the phosphoric acid (Park solution ) or a short boil in baking soda ( Acid neutralizer ) will do the same thing much more effectively ,then oil it after it`s dry . Stops the ORF`s rust bleed issue :tongue: ! If you are going to expect the best park job you have to take some extra steps to get the very Best results !!!:cool:

Oh save your park solution it will work many times over ....Some of mine dried out and i just rehydrate it with distilled water and it is as good as new !

These tips are the result of Decades working in Gov contract shops :tongue: .
Thanks for sharing the information. What mix ratios of TSP and baking soda are you using?

B-D
 

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BeltFed GURU
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Gov specs elude me right now but 2-3 tablespoon per gallon with TSP ,the box says 1/4 cup per gallon (for cold cleaning) but in boiling water it requires less and the same is true of baking soda but i would go with the 1/4 cup just to make sure you neutralize the Phosphoric acid ,then a good boil in distilled water after each to get it all off . When i say Boil i mean a rolling boil this aids the parts drying quickly .

Just as when i am parking i rag the surface clean of any floating bits periodically ,that way i do not have to filter the solution before storing until next use . And parking is not at a boil ever !
 
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