[NRAHighPowerShooter]

OK..I FINALLY got to pick up my Allied Armament 1919A4 from my FFL today.. went over the gun closely and made sure the headspace was set right for my ammo. I eventually fired off about 200rnds in both cloth and links.. here's the problems... I would be able to fire 2-3 rounds then click.. nothing.. no round chambered.. this was either with cloth or links.. this went on for 75 or so rounds....also it seemed the trigger wouldn't reset either if the gun didn't go 'click'...one solutiuon tried and it worked.. one of my buddies held the belt perfectly straight and level and fed it while I fired it.. the gun ran perfectly... no trigger problems or feed problems... so.. it seems the if I let the belt or links hang down and feed the gun straight from a can I get these problems.. but having someone stand there and feed the belt is a bother... and solutions? is some spring too weak or???

 

[L999here]

.....problems...?

Germans had the same problem with their MG42's. You always see the assistant gunner feeding the belts. In your case,its a new gun,may not have enough lube,parts are still wearing in. Continue to have help feeding and you may consider either checking the pawl spring and clean out the hole it goes in or just cutting off a coil if its too stout to let the belt/links slide over. After about 500 rds everything should smooth out. If not,the wear pattern will help determine any areas that may need attention. 'Til then....employ an 'assistant' gunner to help feed belts for troublefree operation.....

 

[NRAHighPowerShooter]

Thanks for the tips... the gun came from AA well lubed... Since I'm a newbie on 1919's it seemed to me a tad bit over lubed (compared to my other semi-auto rifles)... I have seen on here that some of you guys use motor oil... I'm assuming 30wt? All I have on hand right now is 10/30wt..... and a lifetime supply of the GI grease for my Garands..Also.. when I did a take down.. the barrel, on the outside) was all gunked up with grease... I cleaned it off real well and just wiped it down with breakfree.. I assume that is ok or should the barrel be dry on the outside?

 

[Bolt2bounce]

RC

I assume your using 308 sounds like it might be OAL that may be your problem, I had that problem with reloads slightly long for the front cartridged stop. if the tip of your ammo is too long it can cause it to drag and not advance into the t slot. Push some bullets a few thousands deeper into the case first and see if your problems go away before you start cutting springs. Break-free® will do just fine as lube, congrats on your new AA 1919A4. I dig them too.. B2B

 

[NRAHighPowerShooter]

I assume your using 308 sounds like OAL may be your problem, I had that problem with reloads slightly long for the front cartridged stop. if the tip of your ammo it too long it can cause it to drag and not advance into the t slot. B2B

nope...perfect length.. all are between 2.780 and 2.785 and all are handloads.42.5gr H4895 (2680fps) I'm going to run a belt of LC M80 ammo next week.

 

[Hillbilly]

I had that on mine, had to add a real thin washer to the feed pawl on the top cover. Bent it slightly as well.

If the cover is slammed down when the pawl does not line up with the groove in the bolt, well, it may be "out of adjustment".

 

[jfbullseye]

I had a lot of problems with my AA1919. A year and half later and very frustrated I sent it to John Mc Guire. He went through the gun changed the trigger and sear, test fired the gun and sent it back. The one that AA used is crap and I broke 3 of them. The whole thing took a week. It has never been better. It shoots all the time every time. So you can waste time and money trying to shoot out your problems at the range or you can give him a call. He will help you.

 

[NRAHighPowerShooter]

Thanks for all the help guys! One more question (probably won't be the last probably) What tool can one use to unscrew the booster? I assume that I can use a plain bar steel the fits the slots?

 

[stanamale1]

check feed pawl spring

check how strong the feed pawl spring is on the left bottom of the trunnion. sometimes the hole that the spring fits into gets filled up with sand blast media and makes it too hard to pull the belt past the feed pawl. stan

 

[NRAHighPowerShooter]

feed pawl moves freely and the spring feels stiff.. I assume that is normal?

 

[DRH]

Now is the time to start getting some spare parts like an extractor and some springs. It sounds like you may have a weak spring, remember these things are old surplus put back together. Over the last weekend we were running 8mm feeding out of a 54R ammo can and the 1919 was picking up the half full ammo can when the rounds hung up on the can. This weapons won't need a second person to feed the rounds when it is operating properly. With a range trip or two you will have that thing eating all of your ammo up like it was nothing.

 

[DRH]

Thanks for all the help guys! One more question (probably won't be the last probably) What tool can one use to unscrew the booster? I assume that I can use a plain bar steel the fits the slots?

You can order a tool from BMGpart.com to remove the booster for carbon scraping and barrel removal.

4933-614-7277 Wrench, Socket.

M1919A4 Barrel Bearing Socket Wrench. US GI, NOS Condition. $29.95 US, Plus Shipping.

You will still need a metal rod to complement the socket.

 

[NRAHighPowerShooter]

Now is the time to start getting some spare parts like an extractor and some springs. It sounds like you may have a weak spring, :.

So the possible weak spring is the one that is with the pawl in the trunion?

 

[iRIGHTi]

yesssssssss! (10 character minimum)

 

[Armorer]

The booster can be removed using the combination wrench M6. Just about everybody sells them usually for less than $20.00. SARCO has them for $19.95 or 3 for $49.95. Numrich probably has them also as do many of the members of this forum.

 

[Armorer]

That Armorer guy that talked about the M6 tool doesn't know what he is talking about.

OK I was wrong the M6 wrench does not have a provision for removing the booster. I was thinking of the part that is used to remove or tighten the buffer screw. The afore mentioned socket will do the job or a piece of metal that will fit.

By the way has anyone ever run across a Carbon removing reamer assembly, part number 7106460, NSN 4933-00-710-6460? We didn't even have those in my Guard unit years ago.

 

[DRH]

So the possible weak spring is the one that is with the pawl in the trunion?

It is hard to say, failure to feed/extract could be from the top cover extractor spring, the belt holding pawl spring, the belt feed pawl spring or the extractor itself.

 

[NRAHighPowerShooter]

Well.. I may have fixed my feed problem.. in my earlier post I had stated that the pawl on the trunion moved freely and the spring was stiff... I got to looking at it and decided to look at the spring.. so I took the pin out and removed the pawl and spring and the spring was totally gunked up with what it looked to me, medea blasting sand.. the hole the spring goes in was all gunked up as well.. I completely cleaned out the hole as well as the spring and reassembled the pawl and it works much more easily!! I'll test fire it again this thursday as well as play around with my T&E I received from Coles this past Friday

 

[Black Wolf]

nope...perfect length.. all are between 2.780 and 2.785 and all are handloads.42.5gr H4895 (2680fps) I'm going to run a belt of LC M80 ammo next week.

Um, I'm rather new to these 1919's but...., mine won't feed worth a hoot at 2.7 - 2.75 OAL. Even Federal NATO spec ammo wouldn't feed. I had to make my reloads' OAL 2.79 (and some say 2.80) before it'll feed.

....just my 2 cents. I had this problem and that's what fixed it. I made the OAL as long as possible, yet still feed without the tip of the bullet rubbing as it feeds in.

 

[NRAHighPowerShooter]

OK.. I'm going to stock up on new springs.. especially pawl spring in the top cover (seems a tad weak to me)... who should I go through?