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Discussion Starter #1
I've got access to lots of free, lead/acid type, auto/motorcycle/ATV/golf-cart batteries, and feel the need to recycle the lead by smelting them and turning them into bullets. Are there problems and/or conditions I need to consider before beginning tearing these down? Of course the sulfuric acid needs to be considered -- so, how would one effectively neutralize the plates after draining the battery? Do the plates need to be neutralized or otherwise desulfated before smelting, and what other considerations are there? What is the quality of the lead recoverable, and how does it compare to wheel weight's lead?

Thanks, and again, CARRY ON!
Gary
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Don't do it, dont even take them apart.



the gas released during smelting will kill you . arsine and stibine will kill you even with as little as 10PPM .






take them to a parts store where they will give you $3-10 pending on the battery type per each core.
 

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In most areas , parts stores have to charge more than what the " core " is worth to make sure they get them back . This means they will not buy extras , so that's usually a non option . They will usually take them in for free and recycle them , but they'll get no extra for them as it will just be applied into their core bank allowance ( paper credit ) .
Is there a scrap yard in your area that will take them in in exchange for scrap lead you could use ?
Chris
 

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Yep...bad idea. Lead recovery inside batteries is usually done in 3rd world countries where they don't give a flying whatzat about human life. You are marginally better off mining a berm somewhere wrapped up in a moonsuit.

Unless you have one foot in the grave already, pass on the freebie lead.
 

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If you decide to ignore all the warnings that it will kill you, the extracted lead is extremely soft. it will need to be brought up to linotype grade by alloy with tin and antimony. Google for the percentages.

I have a fork truck battery. These differ from cars in that they can be taken down and the lead pulled out. I checked out the alloy prices and decided not worth the bother.

Karl
 

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acquirermatt SEZ: ".... Local scrap yard pays $.22/lb for them."

Mine pays only $00.18/lb.

Still figuring how to neutralize sulfuric acid, if I don't decide to store it in glass bottles w/glass stopper. I can buy lead in ingots for "only" $3.20/lb plus shipping!


Carry On!
Gary
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acquirermatt SEZ: ".... Local scrap yard pays $.22/lb for them."

Mine pays only $00.18/lb.

Still figuring how to neutralize sulfuric acid, if I don't decide to store it in glass bottles w/glass stopper. I can buy lead in ingots for "only" $3.20/lb plus shipping!


Carry On!
Gary
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I would say to take all the free batteries to the recycle yard and take the 18 cents per pound. Then buy the clean lead in the correct grade. You really do not want to be in the battery recycling business as an amateur. Frankly speaking, at $3.20 a lb shipped I would rather lay in my hammock then screw with old car batteries, but of course you are probably younger than me! :rofl:
 

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Cheapest way to get bullet casting alloy is getting scrap wheel weights at the yard. Pretty much ready to cast after smelting and fluxing. Pick through them and toss the darn stuff that has the wrong 'ring' to it.
It won't melt. It's almost always a bit shinier looking. Wrong metal.
 

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Still figuring how to neutralize sulfuric acid,....

Carry On!
Gary
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I've used Baking Soda to neutralize hydrocloric and sulfuric (which is diluted hydrocloric).
 

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Still figuring how to neutralize sulfuric acid,....

Carry On!
Gary
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I've used Baking Soda to neutralize hydrocloric and sulfuric (which is diluted hydrocloric).[/QUOTE]


Yep, that works. Limestone is likely the cheapest. Even a 50 lb. bag of lime is only a couple bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Karl_T SEZ: "....I've used Baking Soda to neutralize hydrocloric and sulfuric (which is diluted hydrocloric).

HCl has one hydrogen atom and one chlorine atom. Sulfuric acid is H2SO4, and has two hydrogen, one sulfur, and four oxygen atoms, and is a diprotic acid whereas HCL is a monoprotic acid.

Okay, Tom. Homemade recycling of car batteries is apparently no longer feasible, (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aH_HKeS1Ed4).. Carefully dumping H2SO4 into glass jars w/glass stoppers to save the sulfuric acid is " not even" a good beginning because of lead contamination of the SO4 -- which could be easily neutralized. Decontamination of the sulfated lead plates by neutralization of the sulfation and then melting them down is not feasible because of the (?) contamination of the lead plates with other (?) metals.

So, I guess I'll take all the experts' opinions to heart for at least the time being and spend from 5 to over16 times as much and purchase "pure" (alloyed) lead on the retail market. Maybe I'll find a bunch of wheel weights to recycle in the meantime. Shucks, I just hate to see a used product go through the hands of several processes and several vendors, each getting their markup and profit, just to come back to me at a vastly increased price


Carry On!
Gary
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Shucks, I just hate to see a used product go through the hands of several processes and several vendors, each getting their markup and profit, just to come back to me at a vastly increased price

no, it's going to a very very nasty place where it will be turned into another battery .
 

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batteries

I used to knock the post off and use them for black powder projectiles,the post are harder lead and not messed up with acid,from what I've been told by old timers the lead inside doesn't work for bullets,it's not a pure lead,it's been converted somehow to a sponge like state so the acid will work correctly, much too technical for me,plus I had free access to wheel weights for 10 years so I have more then enough to last my lifetime.
 
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