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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hopefully someone should know what is going on with my 1919...it was a completed, functional parts kit build my uncle gave me. The problem is that it will fire with a round chambered, but will not cycle the bolt and has to be manually charged by hand to cycle next round. I did set the headspace with a 1919 headspace gauge. The gun has been put together correctly, and manually cycles beautifully. Any ideas, suggestions or such would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
'Dawg
 

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Sounds like there might be some binding in it somewhere. check to see if the shroud is square. If that's not the problem check your head space it may be too tight. Try setting it with the type of ammo that you're using
 

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Need more info.
What caliber?
Did it eject the fired case?
What type ammo?
Is there visible slop between the bolt face and the front cartridge guide when a loaded round is inserted?
Even a minute gap can cause a misfeed.

Is the cam on the bottom of the gun screwed down tight, or backed off about a quarter to half turn as it should be?
 

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Soo

The bolt dosen't move at all when fired?

Or

It fails to load the next round?

2 completely different problems to address.

What caliber & what ammo are you useing?

Was it built prior to you getting it or is this your build?

Dan in Oregon
 

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Do you have the correct booster for tge caliber you are firing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The 7.62 kit was already built when given to me (the builder has built several 1919's and 1917 that function). The headspace was set with a 1919 hs gauge, however I am new to semi-auto belt feds (have plenty experience with the real deal from my Army days). I have read conflicting info about head spacing a semi-auto. I am using factory "Q" ammo (the imported stuff from Turkey...which might not be powerful enough?...). The gun fires with round loaded...press butterfly and "bang", ejects empty case and link...loads next round...press butterfly and nothing. I have to manually charge the next round, ejecting a live round and link. The gun has spade grips on it, which may or may not be an issue. Unloaded, the gun cycles pretty smooth, and doesn't seem to be binding anywhere, but I'm new to this gun and not sure what "smooth" is for it. And as far as the booster, not sure if correct or not (w/o sounding like total idiot, how do you check?)...Like I said, I am new to the 1919 model and I am still learning.

Hope this clears some things up, maybe not. Like I said, I new to the semi-auto version, and particularly the kit builds (which I know can take on a life individually).

Thanks again,
Dawg
 

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Sounds like the trigger is not resetting.

Try lifting up on it after first round is fired....you should hear it click if this is the issue.

Check trigger return spring and add some tension or replace. Cheap part...

Are the spade grips a new addition ?

Whose spades are they?

Do they have the Black plastic circular part resting below trigger?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The grips came with the gun and there is a black plastic "lobe" that goes under the trigger.

Dawg
 

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The grips came with the gun and there is a black plastic "lobe" that goes under the trigger.

Dawg
If its the ones I am familiar with..they can be a bit finicky.
That nice round lobe..does not sit in the "round" of the trigger as one would think.

As I posted above.. fire a round ..and then pull up on trigger to see if it will reset.
If thats whats going on...likely a trigger spring issue or trigger clearance issue in the backplate trigger slot.

If you know how to Safely strip the gun...take a look at your trigger return spring.
Last guy that had this problem was actually missing the trigger return spring.

I'll dig for some pics of what you should have as far as the spring.

Any clue whose sideplate and semi internals are in the gun?

That answer could lead to a different direction of issues.

I'd scrap that HS gage...put it in your collectable parts bin and HS too your actual ammo.
You may just be a couple clicks tight. Either way you should check the TR spring and get familiar with the guts of the gun.
Fairly simple and nothing you can hurt. It can and will Hurt you. Be sure and research the Driving rod warnings.
I'm sure more will chime in when the east coast wakes up.



Dive into this thread and look over the pics.... http://1919a4.com/showthread.php?46688-trigger-return-spring
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not 100% sure, but gun was Israeli kit. The side plate I am not sure of. Will definitely check things out asap.
 

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The problem is with your Ohio Ordnance spade grips. They are finickey and need the trigger bar to be tweaked just so. You dont have enough downward travel to reset the sear, and if you make only one adjustment (sear distance), you will mess up the trigger engagement. I JUST went through this with mine last week. Heres what you are going to need to do:

1.Remove trigger bar.
2. Add a slight upward bend to the straight section JUST IN FRONT if the trigger curve. This allows the trigger bar to travel downward more and successfully reset the sear with every cycle.
3. Add a slight DOWNWARD curve to the trigger curve area, so it makes contact with the 'roller' sooner, so you will have enough upward travel to trip the sear.

I know this all sounds invasive and precise, but it took me about 45 minutes of futzing to get it right. Im at work and have no way of adding a diagram, but if you have any other questions, let me know and I can pen together something tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ScottD

Pretty sure I know what you're talking about with "adjusting" the geometry of the trigger bar. Will give it a try. Will let you know if that fixed it.

Thanks,

Dawg
 

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1919

I've had the same problem with 2 izzy builds, I agree with theduke, the trigger is not resetting, bend it to get more tension or a a heavier spring. Good luck . Mine now work
 

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I too had a similar issue recently, I was able to correct it by removing a small amount of material from the black plastic "lobe" to allow the trigger a bit more travel. Runs like a top now!
 
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