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Discussion Starter #1
Seems that on every old Vickers kit the muzzle cone and cage are solidly corroded together.

Sometimes some oil and arm pressure will break them free. The last one I fought with needed soaking in Kroil and then heating.

Now I'm fighting another. Multiple soakings in Kroil and torch. Last night I froze it overnight, then flame. Still nothing, this SOB won't budge.

I hate these things.
 

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BeltFed GURU
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Ok try EVAPO-RUST https://www.evaporust.com i used it on some 3-f-8`s nothing else would touch and yes for the stuck pistons i need to heat it but it worked !! It costs but it is nontoxic ,you could drink it :unsure: and disposal is pour out on ground totally environmentally safe . The chemical reaction is iron oxide to iron sulfate but it will not touch un rusted metal !!
The Navy uses it for cleaning engine blocks ,they immerse in heated solution for 24 hr and pull out a white metal cleaned block ,rinse ,oil and Done !!
 

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I am currently working at one right now too! Any advice I’ll gladly take!
I will look at the evapo-rust. I’m not sure if I will work as mine isn’t rusted just corroded / leaded together.
 

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Kroil, probably needs to soak a few days. Tap it with a hammer gently so the vibration lets it penetrate. Doesn't hurt to leave it in the sun also.
 

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I’ll try the sun. I have tapped it with a hammer.
Old trick my grandmother did to open canning jars. She used the back of a knife. Haha
 

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I had not thought of the buildup of lead working into the threads.
I suppose if you EVER get the pieces apart you put anti-seize compound on the threads before reassembling.

NOTE to self: Take Vickers muzzle device apart and put anti-seize compound on threads PRIOR to use.

Richard
 

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That is exactly what I did on the muzzle device I shoot. It gets a good coating of never seizes prior to a range trip. I then take it apart and wipe it off As I clean the gun.

When I purchase my gun it came with the older style non armored booster. It was likely never taken apart and that is the one I am working at getting apart. I just started working at it recently****
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not sure why Evaporust might work on mine, but not on pa123's?????

It's no secret why these two parts stick together- threaded, with hot, corrosive gasses being blast directly into the mating surface.

I am using the Vickers tool for the cone; though it doesn't give a solid enough bite for something like this. I use a big screwdriver through the cage, and stand on it, and strike the Vickers tool with a hammer. I can't stick the cage in the vice, lest it compress out of round.

The previous one I soaked in Kroil for a week (twice) and the third time applied heat with a propane torch, and that finally did it.

This one visibly looks more corroded on the back side (muzzle facing) of the cone. It's soaked for days at a time in Kroil; been hit with penetrating oil; heated till the oil boils out (four times), and frozen overnight then heated. Tap with a knife? I beat it with a hammer.

I've heard of people boiling in Kroil, but the flammable temp IIRC is only like 285 degrees. I don't dare throw it on the gas range or grill to boil.

Wonder if I (and pa123) have found permanently mated parts. That will drive me nuts, even if functionally it's fine.
 

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I think @belt fed frog was thinking that your‘s was rusted together. When I mentioned the lead and corrosion he agreed it would not work.


The knife was what my grandmother used on canning jars. I was agreeing with using the hammer on the muzzle device it just made me remember about learning to hit around the threads to break loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This is going to sound silly- I wonder if mounting these seized parts on a live FA would loosen them up? Very hot gasses, vibration, etc.
 

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This is going to sound silly- I wonder if mounting these seized parts on a live FA would loosen them up? Very hot gasses, vibration, etc.
AH, now the solution to the problem becomes justification for a long day (having fun) at the range!
Better bring plenty of ammo just to be sure enough heat and vibration is applied!
Of course if the 2 parts still don't come apart, at least now you will have better memories of the effort!

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #13
AH, now the solution to the problem becomes justification for a long day (having fun) at the range!
Better bring plenty of ammo just to be sure enough heat and vibration is applied!
Of course if the 2 parts still don't come apart, at least now you will have better memories of the effort!

Richard

Opportunist! Trying to separate the desperate from horded ammo!

Seriously, I suppose FA fire would heat that cone up more than a propane torch. Might it then liquify some of the solids and nasty junk binding the two parts? Is this just stupid or does it have merit?

How about an ultrasonic cleaner? Would Purple Power do anything? Use Kroil?

This is driving me nuts.

Chuck
 

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Did you wire brush it first and use a sharp pick to clean the joint between the armorered cone and cage first? Doesn't look like it. Will be hard for the Kroil to penetrate if that is not done first.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did you wire brush it first and use a sharp pick to clean the joint between the armorered cone and cage first? Doesn't look like it. Will be hard for the Kroil to penetrate if that is not done first.

No and not sure how to get a brush in there, but I’ll try anything!
 

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No and not sure how to get a brush in there, but I’ll try anything!
This is where "Mr. DREMEL" proves what a good friend he can be!
Buy extra of those little wire brushes!

Richard
 
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