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I used an electric furnace at my plant for preheating weld work. Set at 800 F for a day and then cooled down to ambient. Came apart then... The solution appears to be even heating of the whole assembly..My 2 cents..
Charlie
PTRS 14.5
 

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Well guy`s what is it made of , it would appear it is two different materials ? brass and ? You say lead is part of the problem . It may only take an elecro chemical bath to clean a free the parts very easily ..... Forgive my ignorance .
 

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I like to be able to completely take down my guns. After looking at this part on my Vickers though, I decided there was no reason to mess with it. What’s the reason for wanting to get it apart?
 

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My muzzle assemble has a old style ww1 booster. My original goal was to remove it and install a new armored booster. Fortunately I recently picked up a complete newer style muzzle device and have been shooting it instead of the original ww1 style. I decided to still try and remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I like to be able to completely take down my guns. After looking at this part on my Vickers though, I decided there was no reason to mess with it. What’s the reason for wanting to get it apart?

Pigheadedness. Because it should separate.
 

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My muzzle assemble has a old style ww1 booster. My original goal was to remove it and install a new armored booster. Fortunately I recently picked up a complete newer style muzzle device and have been shooting it instead of the original ww1 style. I decided to still try and remove it.
pa123guns, thanks for posting, based on the pictures and on your description of what you had already tried to do to get it to come apart, there are several things that I was thinking that would help you do that. First of all that is not all that badly rusted together, and it would come apart, given the right incentives. Second, a hot ultrasonic cleaner, like the one Horrible Fright sells ( the bigger one ) or any similar such device, with an ammonia based cleaner will after a couple of hrs, loosen up all of the built up dirt, lead, and any other built up crud from all of the crevices and threads of this booster.
If it's made from hard steel, get it affixed in a large bench vice, maybe using some type of a fixture to do it, so as not to damage the booster by crushing it in the vice, and heat it up with a map torch, evenly and all around the threaded area, that should melt/burn off all of the lead, or any other stuck/built up material in the threads, and while it is hot, try to unscrew it, using something long, that would give you the needed leverage to put about 200-300 lbs on it. This being a fine thread, this may require 2 or more attempts, let it cool down to room temp, dry, at least one time. This method is successfully used in taking apart of dug up relics from the battlefield, and those are way more rusted together, and rusted through than your booster is.
As a side process, if you heat the whole thing in an kitchen owen, to 400 F, for at lest 1 hr., let it cool of to 300F, and then soak it in a 50/50 mix of av gas and Dexetron ATF fluid overnight, the hot metal will suck in the thin oil in to the threads, and will help unstick most non mechanically stuck together parts. Without knowing how tight this booster was originally torqued together, it is difficult to know how much torque it will take to break it loose.

Hope this helps some. Thanks. Jim.
 

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When you get it apart, please share a couple photos of the separate parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
When heated I can see about 50% of the mating surface allows oil to pass. Despite heatings, beatings, and soaking the parts still won’t break free. I’m throwing in the towel. An ultrasonic bath may do it but I don’t have one
 

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When heated I can see about 50% of the mating surface allows oil to pass. Despite heatings, beatings, and soaking the parts still won’t break free. I’m throwing in the towel. An ultrasonic bath may do it but I don’t have one
Don't quit now, you are so close!
I bet we can think of things you have not tried.
Maybe a deep freeze?
Try only heating one side?
There has to be something to provide a few more days of frustration?
My Brother (John, British car restorer) and myself always have a vat of "Marvels Mystery Oil" to soak rusted parts til they choose to free up.
At least that approach allows you to do other things while the oil does its thing.

Richard
 

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When heated I can see about 50% of the mating surface allows oil to pass. Despite heatings, beatings, and soaking the parts still won’t break free. I’m throwing in the towel. An ultrasonic bath may do it but I don’t have one
Abominog, if you just want to let it soak, the Av gas/kerosene is one of the thinner oils, it has advanced rust inhibitors and suspenders in it, ( to prevent rust from forming inside an aircraft fuel system ) and it is commonly available, and not expensive by the gal, not corrosive and no more toxic then # 2 Diesel fuel, so if you want to keep some to soak stubborn parts, this stuff will get into just about every tiny crevice, and it cleans the parts up really nice, without eating up the metal. I would use it more, if it was not so slow to work. Old hard to find and harder to replace engine parts, rusted together brake system components, came loose after a long soaking, and with a little forcing afterward, so unless it is crimped, welded, crushed or riveted, it will loosen up. A Week to 10 days of soaking in this fuel at 100 degrees F, (regular outside air temp in PHX in the summer ) had done some impressive hands off dissolving before. Low tech, and easy to do.
Hope it helps. Jim.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Oooh that’s nice
Nicest I’ve had, minus Arms that need more cleaning. Mostly 1942 parts, and TONS of marked parts. Opens on GB Friday night. But it took lots of work to get it nice.

And, it’s a Vickers. All Vickers are beautiful. I’d keep every one if I could.
 
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