[bodaver32]

I just finished my transit case. It is no earth-shattering innovation as I copied from nose gunner's site. I put leather under all the contact points as he did. I need to add some stenciling. I did find a way of darkening the hardware to give a better appearance than the shiny zinc finish that is a natural metal finish and not paint.

I think I would like to build another of Oak with dovetail joints and a stain and clear finish for display purposes only as it would be too heavy for use.

 

[rocco1911]

Thats

Thats really nice what did you use to finish it paint wise??

 

[bodaver32]

When you paint wood it soaks in at different rates, giving an un-even finish. I first spray the wood with one coat of clear (which will raise the grain) and sand it. I then spray a second coat and let it dry. I then used home center camoflauge green spray cans as it is close to the color I wanted.

In the photos the green is a bit off because of the flash, but it is a decent color for spray cans.

The above is overkill for a replica transit case as it will look too good, but I wanted something I could wipe down and keep clean.

 

[CaptMax]

Nice job! I've built a few for my guns and blasted and parked the hardware. The stencils took me some time to do, but they look good when painted.
CaptMax

 

[BMG 7.62 A4]

Nice looking chest! I'm thinking of doing my second one, maybe not as long
since I have my gun configured as a shorty now.

 

[brassmagnet]

That looks very nice - good job! Post a pic when you get 'er stenciled...

 

[FTB1-SS]

That is really nice, what does it weigh?

 

[Mouse]

I can cut you 3/4" or 1" stencils, sorry no symbols just letters and numbers.

 

[bodaver32]

Mouse, thanks for that offer. I may have you do that. I also wanted a flaming bomb, on Nose gunner's site he has the file of it. I would just need to cut a stencil of one in some card stock.

I am not set up for parkerizing. With the hardware I sand blasted it then soaked in a brass darkening solution. Then clear coated it with dull finish.

Some enterprising sole needs to sell parkerized hardware for us that build our boxes. I would be more than happy to pay someone to park me a set of hardware (that I send) the next time they have their park tank going.

 

[buffler]

When I made mine, also copied from noseGunner, I had the paint duplicated from a WWII sample cabinet I had at home. A local friend cut the stencils, including a couple of sizes of the flaming bomb. I made a couple more for friends, and then quit while I was ahead. I was able to find a couple of the WWII brass padlocks marked US, and I used those as well. It came out looking pretty good.

 

[TwoGunChuck]

That is very nicely done. Looks great!

How did you darken the hardware? I use muriatic acid (cheap at any hardware store) to remove the zinc plating from the usual galvanized hinges, screws bolts etc. -- takes about 20 seconds. Then I rinse and blue (I use Oxypho but I suppose anything would work including parkerizing). Works great. The acid is of course nasty stuff but harmless if proper precautions are taken (goggles, gloves, gas mask or good ventilation).

 

[Conch1]

The stencils can be challenging. Getting a decent looking Argentine crest for my Colt Browning box used up a bunch of X-acto blades. The flaming bomb from Nosegunner's site works good and not hard to cut out. I just finished one for my Izzy 1919a4 box that said, "Browning Machine Gun Model A2 7.92" in Hebrew, which was a little challenging to cut out, notwithstanding the fact that it is read right to left, bottom to top.

I just blow the insignia (or letters) up on a copy machine to the size I want, use spray adhesive like Photo Mount to tack it to some thin cardboard, and start cutting with sharp X-Acto blades. I'm trying to figure out the Bulgarian and Yugo crests right now.