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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
been following site off and on for years but never commented, but now I would like to consult the collective experts here
I came across 2 tripods, pintels, T&E in desperate need of help
legs were torch cut, TP heads notched, missing data plates. one of the sets of legs dont go with the heads. how do I know? they were painted green, have metric hardware, and the traverse bar is printed upside down unless there is a "left-hand" version out there. everything else is black with standard hardware
T&E were froze solid and missing handles and attachment pins. it took a week of oil soaking and electrolysis to break the T&E loose , but not all the parts are in reusable shape without work
pod heads are Akland? and Appliance Machinery?. The AMC head has a faint flaming bomb cartouche, as does one of the T&E, that really caught my attention. I dont know anything about the T&E. handles are stamped and stacked sheet steel with brass elev plates.
what can you tell me about manufacturers and dating? I started out with the idea that between the 2 I could build one, but after looking them over
I am wondering if I should put the effort in saving them both. If they are "historic-ie WW2" I would do all I can to save them
I have metal skills to do the work, but there is the Time, Money, and Time is money even when you are doing something for fun.
If this is to be a rescue, where is the line between making new parts, rebuilding with "new" USGI parts, or restoring with originals. things are getting welded so there is no question of saving the finishes. finish will be black park
I hope this project catches your imagination and I get some good ideas. thank you
 

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Bring them both back to life. Nice pictures and thanks for posting
Last picture, the set of tripod legs, the legs above are post war made, you can tel because of the locking handle on the legs, also the feet and welds on them indicate post war. You proberly got a mix of stuff.
Let.me guess..
Bought these on ebay?
 

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I bought some that master22ln had that were demilled like that. I cut the cut ends off square, got some rod same OD as the legs then cut into pieces long enough to replace missing area +a couple inches on each end. Then turned the ends down to slip inside the tube and weld up. They came out really nice
 

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A bunch of guys here bought these from Mater22nl and restored them and yes both are WWII manufacture. I would say do them in your free time when you get the time and you will be happy in the end. Restoring tripods is a labor of love there is certainly no money in it. I have had a number of guys ask me to do this and IMHO it is not worth it unless you are just doing one for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Last picture, the set of tripod legs, the legs above are post war made, you can tel because of the locking handle on the legs, also the feet and welds on them indicate post war. You proberly got a mix of stuff.
Let.me guess..
Bought these on ebay?
why yes I did.
i.m actually pretty thrilled with the one T&E and the one TP
the green legs definitely doesnt look to standards but the tops and te do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I bought some that master22ln had that were demilled like that. I cut the cut ends off square, got some rod same OD as the legs then cut into pieces long enough to replace missing area +a couple inches on each end. Then turned the ends down to slip inside the tube and weld up. They came out really nice
the project has moved ahead since the picts. I started out just trying to get one operational set out of the pair, but I am going to save them both
ordered some tubing that matched the original
i stripped the top part of the legs back to the mounting posts . some were welded but one was brazed. the brazed one was the hardest to take off. each pod had 2 solid posts, and 1 post that was two stamped pieces that were welded together and are hollow
the bottom sections I cut back to the stops and turned down some pipe to sleeve the inside. zero chance those welds can fail. the joints are X3 the thickness of the original tube
any suggestions on removing the brass pintel bushing and the brass elevation strips from the elev screw. there is work to be done and I dont want to destroy them
can anyone give me the run down on the details of who made these, and what time periods. thats actually the main reason I made these posts. I cant find alot of info on TP and T/E
I'm sorry I keep talking so much about this, but this is the first time I've done this type of project and dont want to screw it up, or take a soaking on pouring too much into them if they were just junk
 

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Just keep in mind we have plenty of great members that are willing to help so shout if you need something and certainly keep us posted on the progress.
 

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Nice progress, I'll let someone else chime in on the the bushing removal since I haven't done one
 

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The pintle bushings are easy to remove if you have a shop press and some large round stock but be aware that there is a set screw on the underside of the head that needs to be removed first. It is centered between the head and bushing and should be easy to spot but if you have any questions feel free to call or text me at 585_ 7four9_888o
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The pintle bushings are easy to remove if you have a shop press and some large round stock but be aware that there is a set screw on the underside of the head that needs to be removed first. It is centered between the head and bushing and should be easy to spot but if you have any questions feel free to call or text me at 585_ 7four9_888o
I thought the bushings were threaded and the ss was to keep it from backing out. Wait, what? They're just pressed in? Thats embarrassingly easy. I've never seen pods IRL and never any clear pict of the pieces. I am moving slowly to avoid wrecking anything.........else
thanks, thats very kind of you. you dont know how much work you just saved me.
now to push my luck, how do you remove the brass elevation plate.....without destroying it? a tooth is chipped on one of the TE elevation screws and the handwheel locks up on it. I can put a spot weld on it and recut the tooth, but that brass plate is never going to survive it.
if these were "modern" (post '45) I'ld just scavenge pieces to get one working and scrap the rest. but according to responses, they're authentic(mostly), I'll try to save everything I can
 

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Yes, they are just pressed in so it is easy after you remove the set screw just keep in mind lining up the hole for that screw on reassembly takes patience. I would hit the inside of the head with a small brake hone in a drill you can find one in any hardware or auto parts store) and it will go a little smoother for you. I have done dozens of these so have no fear. I am not sure what you mean by the elevation plate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am not sure what you mean by the elevation plate?
pict attached
there is a chipped tooth on the elevation screw. the handwheel ring key on this TE only goes 1/3 of the way. when you turn the handwheel, it completely locks up. the TE is unusable in this condition. the 2nd TE the key goes the full length and doesnt have a problem
I can: a)switch handwheel rings, b)grind out the key which is part of the stamped original and broach in a new one, c)i can tack a weld on to the broken tooth and fix it. the weld in my 1st choice as it would restore it to original condition, but it cannot be done with the brass plate in place
"inside of the head "- i assume you mean the socket that the bushing sits in
dozens? hobby or for work?
can you tell me anything about these TE? who made them and when?
Im having a great time working on these but I'm running out of time
 

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I have done dozens as a hobby and to help friends and by the "inside the head" yes I mean the socket the pintle bushing gets pressed into. Cleaning it up a bit with make assembly much easier. I can't help with the manufacturer of the T&E's because most were not marked with anything other than a drawing number but I understand what you mean by the elevation plate now. I have never tried to get one out nor have I had the need to so I can't be of much help with that but I will look at one when I get to the shop and let you know my thoughts and if I have any ideas for removal of that. Russ
 

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It's a simple friction fit. A thin blade screwdriver under the end and push to peel / scrape it out. It will roll / bend when you take it out, but will lay flat with a punch when you put it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks friend. didnt want to go charging in without knowing it was the way to go
does anyone have a AMC data plate available? I'm really starting to like how the one TP is coming together and would be willing to go the extra mile on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I see post hits, but no new comments
but for anyone still following this story:

tack welded the elevation screw. it worked. cleaned up the threads and the T&E was back in business. BUT, while it might have worked, the filler rod stuck to the base metal but didnt really fuse as well as I'ld like. is that piece maleable iron or some alloy? the new threads work but the original problem remained. the handwheel key was too short. the purists will hate me for mod-ing an original part, but i decided to take the risk. annealed the part, ground out the key. the bore was not a standard size so i had to make a bushing from scratch, then cut in a new keyway. cutting a new key should have been a slam dunk, but it wasnt. eventually got in worked just right to give maximum thread contact but loose enough to work. . the original key barely contacted 2 threads at once. this one is hitting 3-4 now. tack welded the key. had an issue with porosity but that key is not coming out. re-heat treated the part. T&E works great now.

popped the bushings out of the TP. went quick but was surprised at how much force it took to pop the brass bushing. the steel one practically fell out. thanks for the heads up on the elevation plate. got a razor knife under the edge and then slow worked it with a small screw driver and it just rolled up and out. hopefully it will go back as nicely.

anyone out there able to comment on the dates and manuf info?
anyone willing to part with the secret of how green parkerizing was actually done?
anyone ever throw a part in the park with brass pieces still attached?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
very nice. i take it you run a business, or do you have an un-natural tendency for hoarding T&E?
so, you look like an expert
can you tell me, or tell me where to look, to find TP and TE manufacturer info, dates, production runs?
thats amazing recovery work you have going on. how are you finishing them? glass bead, soda, wire wheel? i used ultra sonic and electrolysis so far. planning on soda blast then park.
also, I am going to need misc pieces that I prefer not to have to make; locking handles and screws, TE retaining pins and chains. finished or un-finished condition either way. do you have a site?
 
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